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What did you do to your 2017 FE501 today, ECU, TPS and mods etc.

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I have a 2018 US 501 with a AUS map, FC boot and FMF can. Air injection on exhaust port plugged, and TB hole blocked.

TPS tool (harness connection and my VOM) showed .567V and it smelled a little rich and ran a bit fuzzy, so I fiddled with settings. Went .547, .527, .507 and then went for what 'seems' to be factory setting in the manual (though it doesn't show proceedure or connections) of .400V.   (I use the tool for TPS voltage set with key on, engine off?)

Holy heck that last one backfired like crazy on decel. How/what is the stock proceedure for TPS setting?

I left it at .510V for now and it seems to go like stink through the revs! I like the TPS tool 'cause I can always mod it.

 

Oh...I'm at 4500ft ASL in the mountains, temp is 10C (50F) while doing this...

Edited by Keebler750

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Has anyone modified the stock license plate holder by leaving the tail light, adding a plate backer and somehow reusing the stock license plate light?  Id like to try to do all this for only the cost of the backer and some parts to fit the license plate light, or to remove the stock license plate light from its housing and waterproof it and install it under the fender itself.  

Caveat is that of course, when I destroy the stock blinkers, they will be replaced by aftermarket. 

Thanks!

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2 minutes ago, Partychief said:

Yup. Just cut it and forget about it. No need to spend extra money

Thanks! Already cut it just like that!  Im trying to figure out the best way to re-use that license plate light.  If possible. 

Edited by broke311
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8 hours ago, broke311 said:

Thanks! Already cut it just like that!  Im trying to figure out the best way to re-use that license plate light.  If possible. 

You can also cut more underneath and get rid of those holes as well, while leaving the underlying structure.  Regarding the license plate light, I just disconnected it.  The plate gets enough light off the tail light, since it is right there on top of it.

 

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On 9/23/2018 at 8:09 AM, markbfe501 said:

You can also cut more underneath and get rid of those holes as well, while leaving the underlying structure.  Regarding the license plate light, I just disconnected it.  The plate gets enough light off the tail light, since it is right there on top of it.

 

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Yep. That's how I did it, due to a broken fender that got caught by the knobbies on a jump landing. I did rewire the little LED Sicass license light sticky pad to fit under the tailpiece lip though.

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Did the slip on. No discernible perf difference, but dat sound tho....

 

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Other than an ECU, removal of reeds, desmog and exhaust, what is the next best mod for more power?  The bike has tons of power in the dirt already(too much for me), but I am snowbiking it this winter and want to see if I can eek out the last little bit of power without doing engine mods.

 

Whats on my mind is PR2 Racing is boring out the throttle bodies and putting a new plate in.  Its pricey.  Is it worth it?  They are claiming 3-5hp gain.  Is there any other stock carb you can just throw in, say from the SX version?

  Thanks!

Edited by broke311

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I got my Vortex! Still have to wait until December for the FMF though. I have to order directly through FMF with my group account, and they're out of stock for a while.
Here are all the documents included if anyone needs it. I have seen some of these pages posted, but not all. 

 

Vortex.jpg

VortexECU1.png

VortexECU2.png

VortexECU3.png

VortexECU4.png

VortexECU5.png

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Great.  Just pull the screens, reed valve and desmog for now.  Your bike will wake up tremendously, gaining most of the 12hp sitting out there waiting to be tapped.

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6 minutes ago, markbfe501 said:

Great.  Just pull the screens, reed valve and desmog for now.  Your bike will wake up tremendously, gaining most of the 12hp sitting out there waiting to be tapped.

I thought the pipe, ECU and reeds must be done at the same time. I'm keeping my muffler stock in case I ever need to put it back on. I can wait for the FMF if I have to.

The bike is already desmogged, except for reeds and solenoid. Its hose is disconnected, but still wired in, to not throw errors. I'll get the solenoid delete plug soon.

Edited by HansLanda

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Just now, HansLanda said:

I thought the pipe, ECU and reeds must be done at the same time. The bike is already desmogged, except for the solenoid. Its hose is disconnected, but still wired in, to not throw errors. I'll get the solenoid delete plug soon.

You've got the key part, the Vortex.  Now just pull the two screens in the end of the pipe and pull the reeds, and install your Vortex.  You're going to get 90+% of the overall gain even without your new pipe.  Start with Map 1, and 5,5,5 on the fuel dials.  Then . . . hang on!

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7 minutes ago, markbfe501 said:

You've got the key part, the Vortex.  Now just pull the two screens in the end of the pipe and pull the reeds, and install your Vortex.  You're going to get 90+% of the overall gain even without your new pipe.  Start with Map 1, and 5,5,5 on the fuel dials.  Then . . . hang on!

Well that's good news, but I don't want to modify my stock muffler, just in case of a fixit ticket or something.

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1 minute ago, HansLanda said:

Well that's good news, but I don't want to modify my stock muffler, just in case of a fixit ticket or something.

Pulling the two screens still leaves the spark arrestor and muffler in tact.  They were simply there to knock down noise even more, albeit very slightly.

You are already running very lean out of the box (which is not good for the bike), and need to fix that with the Vortex sooner rather than later.

If you have already desmogged, you are already pregnant with CARB/EPA!   As you will also be with Vortex, reed removal, regearing, etc.

Wake that baby up.  The improved power will blow your mind!  Plus, no more decal pop, flameouts, etc.

 

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Ok boys a couple weeks ago I installed the MX-Tech 3 way adjuster on my 17 501 and am looking for advice on what settings people are using . I mostly ride in the desert so I see lots of sand, big woops, arroyos and hard pack. I am trying to figure things out quickly because of the holidays if I can’t I will need to make changes in December because my next race is a high speed desert race in January. Thanks in advance.

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Pulling the two screens still leaves the spark arrestor and muffler in tact.  They were simply there to knock down noise even more, albeit very slightly.
You are already running very lean out of the box (which is not good for the bike), and need to fix that with the Vortex sooner rather than later.
If you have already desmogged, you are already pregnant with CARB/EPA!   As you will also be with Vortex, reed removal, regearing, etc.
Wake that baby up.  The improved power will blow your mind!  Plus, no more decal pop, flameouts, etc.
 
Alright, how do you pop the screens out? Take the end cap off and then what?
I know I can take the solenoid off with the Vortex on, but I'll wait for the dongle, I don't like unplugged connectors if I can help it.

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3 hours ago, HansLanda said:

Alright, how do you pop the screens out? Take the end cap off and then what?
I know I can take the solenoid off with the Vortex on, but I'll wait for the dongle, I don't like unplugged connectors if I can help it.

Don't need to take the endcap (or exhaust) off at all.  Simplest way I have found is to take a Dremel tool with a metal cutoff wheel, and make a slice right through the middle of the first screen.  Make it as long of a slice as you can.  Use a flathead screwdriver to open up the slit enough to grab, twist and yank out the screen with some vice grips.  It is just seated into a shallow slot inscribed into the endcap opening.  Repeat the process for the second screen that its about 1/4-1/2" inside of the first one.  Takes a little wrestling, but does come right out.  Don't be gentle.

Fair enough on the dongle.  Not needed, but I have one on my bike as well for the same reason.  Just know it is not needed for the bike to function properly.

Pulling the reeds, and opening up the exhaust are what gives the most power gains.  The Vortex is mainly there to fix the already lean conditions (and then excessively lean conditions created by opening the bak up further).

When you swap your exhaust, if you are also pulling the header off (or simply disconnecting it from the exhaust port), that is a great time to also pull the carbon canister out of the front down frame tube.  You can wrestle it out through the bottom, but the header will need to be out of the way.  It will hit a hump in the bottom of the engine while wrestling it out.  It's made of plastic, so it will flex enough to come out.  Some (I did) use a screwdriver to pry it enough to clear the hump while working it out.  Others have used a small tie-down strap pulled around the front wheel.  This, along with removing the solenoid, SAS, etc, makes for a very clean desmog.  

Edited by markbfe501
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