2 Stroke mixing

[yz250474]

in theory it would , but if the jetting is standard then it would be rich  so 16:1 would probably be ok , if your switching oils i would look further then yamalube imho

guess I should try jetting my bike then?  it run's good but i'm at 400ft with stock jetting.... would it make enough  power to be worth it??? I did rejet my ATV but I also removed the air box lid, I could instantly tell a difference. But on my YZ the plug looks good, never fouls a plug or nothing... but I'm all for "MORE" power! 

Edited January 25, 2017 by yz250474

[shrubitup]

If you're riding the bike like it was designed to be ridden, you need to be close to 32:1.  If you start your bike and let it idle until its warm and then shut it off and put it back in the garage, 200:1 would probably work.

 

Oil is cheap insurance.  I will never understand trying to skimp on premix.  It makes no sense.

Not everybody rides MX bikes on MX tracks or lives in the desert. 

[kxrob]

guess I should try jetting my bike then?  it run's good but i'm at 400ft with stock jetting.... would it make enough  power to be worth it??? I did rejet my ATV but I also removed the air box lid, I could instantly tell a difference. But on my YZ the plug looks good, never fouls a plug or nothing... but I'm all for "MORE" power! 

 

definitely re jet 

45 pilot is a great start and proper air screw adjustment

google spanky's jetting guide good read and very helpful

 

now the needle IMO bin the yamaha nedle and get a Suzuki NECJ needle in clip 3 (this is still safe ) ( good down to 60*f ) if you needle richer then a NEDJ needle in clip 3 for winter

 

 once the bike is run in do a plug chop to see running condition of the main

suzuki needles usually need 2-3 steps leaner main jet then yamaha needles 

[turbo dan]

Not everybody rides MX bikes on MX tracks or lives in the desert. 

 

But for a few cents more per gallon you can cover any potential scenario.  Makes no sense from a cost/benefit perspective.

[clappedoutkx]

But for a few cents more per gallon you can cover any potential scenario. Makes no sense from a cost/benefit perspective.

I've had this discussion with Shrub in the past. He adjusts ratios to the projected rpm/engine load of the ride. Thin ratios are used for singletrack lugging. More oil for other rides. Since oil migration is rpm dependent, it seems to work for him. Just like a KX125 manual calls for 32:1 and a KX250 manual calls for 40:1. My 300's manual allows everything from 40:1 to 60:1.

I'm personally to paranoid to press the issue, and use plenty of oil.

[shrubitup]

But for a few cents more per gallon you can cover any potential scenario. Makes no sense from a cost/benefit perspective.

It's not about saving money.

I've had this discussion with Shrub in the past. He adjusts ratios to the projected rpm/engine load of the ride. Thin ratios are used for singletrack lugging. More oil for other rides. Since oil migration is rpm dependent, it seems to work for him. Just like a KX125 manual calls for 32:1 and a KX250 manual calls for 40:1. My 300's manual allows everything from 40:1 to 60:1.

I'm personally to paranoid to press the issue, and use plenty of oil.

Right you is.

[Spooge]

Opinions are like     never mind.

 

This is a never ending rabbit hole.  Yamalube is great, 32:1

 

Enjoy your new bike, I'm jealous 

Edited January 25, 2017 by Spooge

[shrubitup]

Opinions are like never mind.

This is a never ending rabbit hole. Yamalube is great, 32:1

Enjoy your new bike, I'm jealous

You will never go wrong using this oil and ratio. Thread closed.