Jump to content
BruddLee

Clutch not engaging

Recommended Posts

I just replaced my throttle cable on my 2000 DRZ400E and after I tried to start the bike up but when I popped it into gear with the clutch pulled, the rear tire spun and it stalled. I tried tightening the little adjustment on the lever assembly but it didn't help. When I try to roll the bike in first gear with the clutch pulled in there's resistance. It doesn't roll freely. So the clutch is engaging a little bit but not enough. I'm not sure if there is another place to adjust the cable to make it engage more? Any suggestions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 Replacing your throttle cable wouldn't have effected the clutch at all. Not sure what's wrong with your bike, but you should have 1/2 of freeplay at the levers end. There's an adjustment on perch and on the cable itself

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah I know that the throttle cable change shouldn't affect the clutch. I was just giving more information on when the problem started. I adjusted the clutch cable both ways. Tightening it and loosening it. I set it to about the right amount of play as well. I'm thinking maybe I need to replace the clutch cable now because even when I tightened the cable up completely, it still wouldn't engage the clutch completely. Hopefully it's nothing wrong with my actual clutch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

When was the last time you changed the oil?

It could also be notched basket,hub or warped plates.

If you have the correct perch/ lever and freeplay then the cable isn't the issue.

What do you mean by perch? I also don't know what a basket is, or a hub. Sorry I'm new to this stuff and trying to learn. And thanks for the tips. I just bought the bike less than a month ago and haven't gotten around to changing the oil. I'll check that first then check the plates if the problem persists.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 It sounds like you're pretty green, you may not have the know-how yet to correctly diagnose your bike. The clutch lever free-play is the first, and most basic starting point, it's difficult to explain in print, but is easy to do. Maybe try watching a YouTube video on it, and make sure you're doing it correctly. A clutch perch is what holds the lever itself, and is mounted to the handlbar

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The reason I mention the lever and perch is if you have a cheap replacement, or one from a different bike, the throw may not be enough.

You should change the oil immediately since you have no idea when it was changed last.

If they would fix this garbage app I would post a self explanatory picture on setting the freeplay.

Basically if there is a rubber cover on the lever mount (perch) pull it back. There should be enough slack (freeplay) that a gap around the thickness of a penny or so opens before there is resistance on the lever.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Dmouse said:

 It sounds like you're pretty green, you may not have the know-how yet to correctly diagnose your bike. The clutch lever free-play is the first, and most basic starting point, it's difficult to explain in print, but is easy to do. Maybe try watching a YouTube video on it, and make sure you're doing it correctly. A clutch perch is what holds the lever itself, and is mounted to the handlbar

I feel so dumb for not doing this first.... :( I changed the oil just now and the problem is gone. Thank you guys for your help!

On the other hand I have been having one other problem. The bike idles really low like 1300 to 1400 rpm and so it bogs when I give it any more than a little bit of throttle. I adjusted the idle screw the be higher so that the bike idled around 1800 from what I have researched to be a good RPM for drz's. When I adjust it to idle there and give it throttle it no longer bogs but it hangs at a higher rpm and very slowly falls back to idle. Any suggestions for how to diagnose that? I'm guessing it's the carb needs cleaning. But like he said I am very green. It's not the throttle cable as I just replaced that.

Edited by BruddLee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

You will need to turn the fuel screw out a little bit to richen the mixture.

Fuel screw is on the bottom on the carburetor

Thanks! I planned on rejetting the carb this weekend for my elevation because the guy before me rode in a much higher elevation than I am going to be. I'll adjust the fuel screw when I take the carb off to rejet

Edited by BruddLee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A matter of terminology.  When the clutch lever is released the clutch engages.  When the clutch lever is pulled the clutch dis-engages. 

When you talk about re-jetting the carb, you need to know where it is now and what needs to be different. Also need to know if the motorcycle is all stock (probably not) and what changes have been made since it was new.  Likely re-jetting will be just moving the needle clip and adjusting the fuel screw and maybe changing the main jet IF it was set up correctly for a higher altitude.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×