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No power but still kick-starting

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Klr 600 b4 model 

After playing with electrics ..In the dark 

I go to my bike turn ignition on...No neautral light..No digital dash..No lights ..No indicators..No horn ...Nothing..

Anyway it still.kicks starts and.now.rides fine but still no.lights or anything even running.. fuses have been checked ( only find 2 ..I assume that's normal) and battery is ok? 

Cleaned all my connection blocks  ..Some of the blocks with a with a tiny screwdriver to remove stuck filth..Could this cause a short between two pins ect? 

Other suspicion is my solinoid... 

Possibly shorted out one of the wires out on it somehow? Or blown the solinoid itself?

Any thoughts other sujestions?

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Check the fuses under the seat. Or under right side cover.

Mine the fuse holder was bad. I soldered in new ones then it was fine.

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there is no power getting to the electrical systems. the ignition is totally on it's own and does not need the battery in any way

the white wire from battery is main power. it goes from battery to fuse, to the key switch. everything is powered from that switch except the radiator fan.

power leaves the key switch and heads back to the other fuse (by the battery) to feed the lighting circuits.

check for power at the key switch.

the cooling fan has its own fuse up by the overflow bottle but it ties to the white wire before the key switch. you can pull the wire off the temp sensor & touch it to ground. the fan should come on. if it does, there is power on the white wire after the main fuse as far as that connection (near the fan fuse)

the alternator output also ties to the white wire. it is spliced in between the battery and the key switch. neither power source can reach the systems because the key sw is boogered. white is the input.... but the hot wires coming out of the key sw are BROWN... they should have 12v when the key is on

Edited by Beezerboy

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might be broken wires but it is also possible that there is enough corrosion in the connector to keep things from working. there is a quick disconnect on the key switch.... has about 6 wires, under the gas tank... that one. it is also a good place to access the wires for meter readings

a cruddy connector might still read 12v, but not pass current. thats due to the meter's own high resistance... long story. sometimes a test light is better because it actually pulls a load

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