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'17 Husky 501 Airboot Reed Removal Report

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 It seems there is a very small amount of information regarding this air boot reed removal issue so I wanted to post a quick bit of info with a ride report. 

 First of all I was not positive how to remove them but after hunting around online it appeared all I needed to do was pull really hard or get some screwdrivers and pliers. It seemed  a bit daunting and I was afraid I might hurt my airbox. So here is what I did: 

 I took a heat gun and very carefully warmed up the reed area. It turns out there is a thick rubber seal that once heated up will simply pull off with a little bit of tugging from some pliers. I actually used my fingers to remove half of it once it started peeling off.  From there I simply grabbed the middle portion of the reed cage with some pliers and started tugging on it moving the pliers back-and-forth and the whole thing popped right out. 

 I threw the air filter back in, put the sideplate back on, and fire the bike up. Oh my God! 

 After I adjusted the idle up just a tad, I can tell you this thing ran like you fantasized about it running before you purchased it. My bike had the following modifications just prior to my removing the reed block: 

 Fuel rail, TPS set at .64, completely gutted silencer with only the small outer screen still attached,  all smog removed, screen removed from air filter cage. 

I can say without a doubt the removing of this reed block all by itself was a bigger performance increase than everything else I did combined. I'm not joking, your motorcycle will have a completely new attitude and it might just intimidate you. It's amazing how something that took me maybe five minutes to remove has completely transformed this thing. It has so much more bark off idle that it feels like a different motorcycle now.  The only thing I really had to do was bump up the idle  a little bit because it seems like it lowered it slightly. 

I wrote this because it made such a difference I felt guilty not sharing it with everyone! I have a 2016 YZ450 that I race Moto with and I thought the Husky would be similar in power  when I first purchased it but I was slightly disappointed to find out it had none of the attack or bark the Yamaha did. That has all changed now. This thing hits like a Ton of bricks,  and it sounds different to. A bit angrier. 

 If you have been riding your motorcycle and while enjoying it still having in the back of your mind that it's not quite there, and you expected a 500 cc engine to produce a bit more kick, this mod Will calm down that that little nagging voice...

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It removed mine yesterday but the weather here is keeping the bike in the garage.  Thanks for the feedback can't wait to get back on the bike.  I desmoged the bike, went with a front 13t sprocket, removed the noise screens on the exhaust end cap and set the TPS to .65, was stock at .58

 

 

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Totally agree with the above.  I have a remapped KTM vs.  Husky but completely recommend removing the reeds. I just did it a few days ago.  It may be my imagination but I feel like the motor is noticeably smoother, snappier,  sounds better and the bike vibrates less.  Definitely a must do.

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I agree, mine runs better too after the Reed Cage removed...:thumbsup: I have done all of my MOD's one at a time to see the differences and everyone has made a big difference.

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Ok...ya got me.  I'm not new to this sandbox but I don't know what y'all are talking about.  Reed in the airbox??   I know about reeds for a carbed bikes( 2strokes)  but in the airbox??  Ya got a part number or better/different description so I can be enlightened? 

I get what you're trying to do to give it more air but seems to me that unless you can increase the volume of the airbox, like drilling holes in the cover, etc that it can't be worth much.  My bike is a 15-501S desmogged, uncorked, TPS to .65 with us map

Make me smarter, lads.

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If you have a '15, it's not an issue as they didn't have this assembly.  The reed block looks just like those in a two stroke but they are between the airbox and the throttle body.  They are only on the exc's and apparently are there to make the intake quieter to pass epa regs.  I'm guessing they keep some kind of pressure or sound wave from getting back through the intake on the intake stroke.  Whatever the logic is, I think there is a reason I've never seen reeds on the intake of any of the other 4 stroke toys I've ever had.

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Got it.  I'll look up the 17 fisch to see what it is.  With FI, I can't see the value except for regs...especially in CA.  Thanks.

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Awesome $0 modification.

I have a 2017 FE 350 with FC mapping and BDS fuel rail. I was having top end and WOT bogging/starvation for air issues which obvisously affected the performance.  I used a heat gun to remove the rubber gasket around the reed cage (came off pretty easy). I used pliers and gently pulled/wiggled the reed cage out. 

This made my bogging go away. Feels sooo much better now. Just wanted to let everyone know. I was hesitate to do this until the "Uncle Quinn" posted this thread. Thank you Uncle Quinn.

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So you just pulled the whole assembly out and that's it?  Nothing to put back in or any gaps to seal?  I have a remapped FE 501 with the same bogging issues, was told removing the cage and replacing the muffler were must do items to eliminate, and am planning to tackle the reed cage tomorrow.  

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Pulled the reed cage out, put air filter back in, and that's it. Helped alot. I have the stock exhaust on it. Even with the stock exhaust still it helped alot. I plan on buying just an end cap for the exhaust from Ktmandhusky.com soon. I think that will help it even more. Additionally, I have the emissions delete kit that i'll install when I have time. Im trying to do just one modification at a time to see the changes each one makes. Ktmandhusky.com now offers 2017 emissions delete kit if interested. The kit also comes with a kick stand fix bolt. 

Edited by Steven Beckman

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Nothing to plug in the airbox after the reeds are removed.  The reeds are essentially glued to the surface of the airbox with a rubber lip.  You can't tell anything is missing once you take the block out.  Taking the reeds out made a huge difference to my bike. When you see the assembly it seems like it would be hugely restrictive. I would hold off on exhaust mods other than knocking the screens out of the outlet until you remove the reeds. You may be happy at this point.  People like the FMF but I'm not sure I have seen a review by anyone who has done all of the mods first and then lastly added an exhaust.  Seems like everyone changed their exhaust first and then did all of the other stuff that became available later like mapping and tps adjustments.  KTM husky endcap has some mixed reviews.  

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I'll try just opening the exhaust after the cage is out and see how it is before putting the FMF on, and will post results.  Unfortunately it's 6 degrees here, so not exactly the conditions I'll normally be riding in.  Hopefully it warms up enough for a test ride not affected by abnormally cold dense air.  

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To share a bit of experience from today's efforts, it appears that the shape of the intake boot is a bit different on the FE501's, as the reed cage is somewhat surrounded by the side of the intake boot on the left side, making it more difficult to access - almost looks like it was mounted further down the inlet track.  I didn't see a way to remove it as it could not come straight out before contacting the lip around the air box.  I ended up just taking the boot out to allow it to slide out without risking a tear, which was not particularly difficult to do, and this allowed me to reshape the boot enough to slide the cage right out.  

Still haven't taken it for a test ride, single digits today and another snowstorm on its way, but i can see why it would be bogging at higher RPM's given the amount of restriction this thing must be putting on the intake.  

 

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14 minutes ago, VTHusky said:

To share a bit of experience from today's efforts, it appears that the shape of the intake boot is a bit different on the FE501's, as the reed cage is somewhat surrounded by the side of the intake boot on the left side, making it more difficult to access - almost looks like it was mounted further down the inlet track.  I didn't see a way to remove it as it could not come straight out before contacting the lip around the air box.  I ended up just taking the boot out to allow it to slide out without risking a tear, which was not particularly difficult to do, and this allowed me to reshape the boot enough to slide the cage right out.  

Still haven't taken it for a test ride, single digits today and another snowstorm on its way, but i can see why it would be bogging at higher RPM's given the amount of restriction this thing must be putting on the intake.  

 

Yeah previous era bikes didn't bog at all (stock) at full throttle. So Id say it has something to do between that reed assembly and the stock mapping. I guess you saw the latest BDS vid, the offroad map is just rich enough for stock bike, remove the reed cage and or change muffler still very lean.

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1 hour ago, Spud786 said:

Yeah previous era bikes didn't bog at all (stock) at full throttle. So Id say it has something to do between that reed assembly and the stock mapping. I guess you saw the latest BDS vid, the offroad map is just rich enough for stock bike, remove the reed cage and or change muffler still very lean.

I honestly don't know what MAP I have compared to others (as my FI light is always on, dealer referred to it as EURO 4), but it ran fine bone stock, well other than it running lean and flaming out at no load decel regularly.  Hoping it doesn't lean out too much with the reed cage out and new muffler, as it doesn't look like the fuel tuner is out yet for the 17 Husky, just the EXC (maybe they're the same but all previous years appear to have different part numbers for KTM vs. Husky).   

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I hadn't noticed that, they do have separate numbers, I figured the mapping was the same. Or could be the different airbox on the Husky effected the mapping, so the tuner comes with different presets compared to the ktm. 

With that new 201 map out now, you should get that one to rid the fi light.

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17 hours ago, Spud786 said:

Yeah previous era bikes didn't bog at all (stock) at full throttle. So Id say it has something to do between that reed assembly and the stock mapping. I guess you saw the latest BDS vid, the offroad map is just rich enough for stock bike, remove the reed cage and or change muffler still very lean.

Hey Spud can you give me a little more detail on this.  For those that have the Euro map, shouldn't it be rich enough to have the reed removed since the Euro bikes don't have the reed?  If we have both the FMF and reed removed, is the Euro map not rich enough?  Thanks

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6TF1T7fb84

 

According to BDS which tested the 201 map, with stock reeded intake, said its okay for stock config, as long as you don't do anything else. And Ive already seen it mentioned elsewhere that some needed to have the 201 map fuel adjusted.

he's working on an additional fuel testing project, from what he's said.

so maybe in another week more info from BDS, I think he doing a comparison on the dyno amongst various configs.

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5 hours ago, Spud786 said:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6TF1T7fb84

 

According to BDS which tested the 201 map, with stock reeded intake, said its okay for stock config, as long as you don't do anything else. And Ive already seen it mentioned elsewhere that some needed to have the 201 map fuel adjusted.

he's working on an additional fuel testing project, from what he's said.

so maybe in another week more info from BDS, I think he doing a comparison on the dyno amongst various configs.

I think he's still trying to sell you the TPS tool... Mine runs perfect with the EU map and TPS set at .60 with reed removed and FMF 4.1

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