clutch lengthening

Just wondering if anyone has any info or has lengthened out their clutch on a 426? Is the clutch pull noticeably easier? Looks fairly simple to do, would appreciate any feedback.

[ April 15, 2002: Message edited by: Striker ]

A few guys have done it, Have you done a search I know there are some posts.

Me I personally dont need to I am a real man. :)

I did the mod on my bike and would say it made about a 20% difference, then added a Works Connection Pro Perch w/ built in decomp. lever and it has a 2stroke like pull now.

Had my local welder make the mod for me, can't even tell it has been cut/welded, think he tig'd it back together.

This mod is a great alterneative to the Raptor lever, which personally I don't like and was cheaper.

[ April 15, 2002: Message edited by: SMP ]

Hey Dansgarage or SMP, I'm about to yank my clutch push lever tonight and have a question. Do I need to remove the clutch basket to release the push lever? I don't want to force it up or is that what it takes to remove it? I've only removed the cable and retaining bolt. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Pazzo.


You only need to remove the clutch plate bolts and pull the plate off and the actuator arm should pull out. There are two peices, one long shaft and a short peice (closest to the plates). Pay attention to how the actuator arm is in the casing right now (small spring position, etc.), I had a hard time figuring out how it was originally in there, but finally figured it out.

Don't forget to use a torque wrench on the clutch plate bolts....they like to break.

SMP, Thanks for the prompt reply and yes I honor and respect the power of the mighty "TORQUEWRENCH" Once again the TT'ers come through!

Thanks, Pazzo.

I've ridden a fellow TT'ers bike (Wyatt) who has done the mod. It is definitely easier clutch pull. It's a no-lose free mod. It'll only cost you if you screw up the arm (but they're only $30 or so).

I will do it also as soon as I can talk him into doing the machine work for me!!

I have done it to my bike and can't really notice any difference. this seems to be the exception to the rule though. It doesn't look prety but it works. good luck

The only problem I see with the "lever mod" is that you need to do it to your spare lever and any other lever you buy in the future.

I don't know about everyone else, but I go through atleast 2-3 levers a year.

Im wondering if anyone really knows for sure if the 2001 clutch arm is or is not exactly 5mm longer than the previous models. I have a 2000, my clutch is fairly easy, after lubing the cable correctly with Triflow. That made huge difference itself. Does anybody know about the levers themselves?

You might think of getting a hydrolic clutch. I know it is expensive(~200) but it will last you. You can always transfer it from bike to bike. I believe the KTMs come with it. Next time you are at the track and see a KTM ask them to try out their clutch.

Just to clarify, someone stated before that the 2001 series clutch actuator is 5mm shorter YES 5MM SHORTER than a 98,99,00. If you own a 2001 and probably a 2002 just buy an early arm and install. No welding cutting etc. If you own a 98, 99, 2000 you need to cut and weld.

I own a 2001 and have installed a borrowed 2000 arm. It does make a difference. I regret having to give it back. I have had a new arm on order since mid March, they are on backorder til sometime in May. Quoted retail is $35.36.


Just to point out-I have a kTm also (hydraulic clutch) the pull on both the 426 and the 250 MXC are identical in force feel. The machining only takes about 15 minutes and is well worth it (I'm talking about modding the lever here). If I ever break the lever, you can bet I'll have the replacement in the shop for the secondary hole mod. :)

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