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Valve job help 2013 drz400sm

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Ladies. Gentlesirs. 

So I rolled over 15,000 miles and after reading through the forums for like 2 weeks I decided to tackle the job of adjusting the valves myself. So I tore into the bike, got it apart, checked the clearances(which were super tight), did the math, picked up my shims, replaced shims, checked clearances again, and put it back together. So moment of truth, rolled her out of the garage to start her up. She cranked right up and I was so friggin relieved lol but as soon as I gave a hint of throttle, it died. Sad face. So I have taken the damn thing apart and put it together and tried starting like 4 times now and still nothing. I know the valves aren't bent. It sounds normal while trying to start. I set the timing chain and cams exactly how the thread on here says to. There's compression. There's spark. There's fuel (petcock on pri, down or whatever). What am I missing? Please mighty and humble users of Thumper Talk, get me running again! 

 

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Is the carb jetted? When my bike would die with throttle the fuel screw was adjusted wrong. Also why are you putting it on pri? 

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4 minutes ago, Atolduso said:

Is the carb jetted? When my bike would die with throttle the fuel screw was adjusted wrong. Also why are you putting it on pri? 

I haven't touched the carb since I bought it. Still has factory exhaust so I assume not. The petcock is turned down. If I turn it left or right it stops the fuel (noticed when I removed the tank). The fuel screw? The white plastic one sticking out underneath the carb?

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8 minutes ago, OdieOMoto said:

I haven't touched the carb since I bought it. Still has factory exhaust so I assume not. The petcock is turned down. If I turn it left or right it stops the fuel (noticed when I removed the tank). The fuel screw? The white plastic one sticking out underneath the carb?

If you didn't do a jet kit or anything yours is behind a plug, forget about that I was just curious. You don't want it on pri all the time. The petcock is vaccuum operated and will only flow gas when the motor is running, if you're leaving it on pri not running change your oil immediately because it's flooded with gas. You want to leave it on the "on" position at all times unless you need to fill the carb again after working on it. Or if you run out of gas and need reserve of course. 

 

That white plastic thing is an idle adjustment so not that :)

Edited by Atolduso

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3 minutes ago, Atolduso said:

If you didn't do a jet kit or anything yours is behind a plug, forget about that I was just curious. You don't want it on pri all the time. The petcock is vaccuum operated and will only flow gas when the motor is running, if you're leaving it on pri not running change your oil immediately because it's flooded with gas. You want to leave it on the "on" position at all times unless you need to fill the carb again after working on it. Or if you run out of gas and need reserve of course. 

 Ok right on. So leaving it on, do you think I flooded it? 

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1 minute ago, OdieOMoto said:

 Ok right on. So leaving it on, do you think I flooded it? 

Yes for sure. Your oil gets really thinned out and bad things happen to the bottom end if you run it too long. 

Edited by Atolduso

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14 minutes ago, Atolduso said:

Yes for sure. Your oil gets really thinned out and bad things happen to the bottom end if you run it too long. 

Ok. So oil change, what's the next course of action before starting? If any?

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3 minutes ago, OdieOMoto said:

Ok. So oil change, what's the next course of action before starting? If any?

I would probably just change it then try and start it up. Not 100% if anything else is recommended sorry. 

Edited by Atolduso

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2 minutes ago, William1 said:

Did you reconnect the little vacuum line when you put the tank back on?

Yes sir. 

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7 minutes ago, Atolduso said:

I would probably just change it then try and start it up. Not 100% if anything else is recommended sorry. 

Alright. I'll try it tomorrow morning. I'll check back in with the results. Thanks for your time brother! 

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What did you do exactly the 4 times you have had it apart?  Did you forget to do anything the first time?

Aside from hydro locking the motor I don't see how gas in the oil would be a factor.

 

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1 hour ago, Melkor said:

What did you do exactly the 4 times you have had it apart?  Did you forget to do anything the first time?

Aside from hydro locking the motor I don't see how gas in the oil would be a factor.

 

Check the shims make sure they seated all the way, cam timing, clearances, whatever I thought I didn't check the time before. I followed the instructions on the thread from this site to the T so I'm fairly confident I didn't forget anything. 

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Just because the petcock was turned to prime does not automatically mean it's flooded , that only happens when the o-ring under the needle seat is bad and leaks so don't go and change your oil right away ! Bad advise . Since it started right up that eliminates it but you shouldn't leave it on prime due to the reason given , they do leak often ,just not every bike all the time. I'd first loosen the bowl drain screw to see if there is fuel in it, if not there is your issue, if yes then it's something you did with the valves .

 

 

.

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Do as jjktmrider said, then start it again. Did you chec the valve  clearances after it died ? When it dies is it when you give it a brap  of throttle, can you slowly roll  The throttle on?  What happens if you use the choke ?

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Adjusting the valves isn't​ what is meant by "valve job"

I triple checked the manual and can't find the specification for "super tight". Can you tell us what you measured? 15'000 miles is relatively fast for valves to be out of specification.

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2 hours ago, jjktmrider said:

Just because the petcock was turned to prime does not automatically mean it's flooded , that only happens when the o-ring under the needle seat is bad and leaks so don't go and change your oil right away ! Bad advise . Since it started right up that eliminates it but you shouldn't leave it on prime due to the reason given , they do leak often ,just not every bike all the time. I'd first loosen the bowl drain screw to see if there is fuel in it, if not there is your issue, if yes then it's something you did with the valves .

 

 

.

Yeah the oil is fine. As far as loosening the drain screw on the bowl, it's kinda stuck in place and wanting to strip. But I'll pb blast it and work at it more. 

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2 hours ago, jas6395 said:

Do as jjktmrider said, then start it again. Did you chec the valve  clearances after it died ? When it dies is it when you give it a brap  of throttle, can you slowly roll  The throttle on?  What happens if you use the choke ?

It's only started the one time. I checked the clearances every time I disassembled and before reassembly. They're on the tight side at .010 intake and the exhaust is .022. Havent used the choke since I was in Cali. She cranked right up before. 

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1 hour ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

Adjusting the valves isn't what is meant by "valve job"

I triple checked the manual and can't find the specification for "super tight". Can you tell us what you measured? 15'000 miles is relatively fast for valves to be out of specification.

If I knew you were smiling in a friendly manner when you wrote this I might answer. 

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