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17 500 exc break in

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manual is vague at best. 1 hour under 7000 rpms and 3 hours less that 75%.  do these things need to be nursed for 3 hours or just don't pin it when riding. want to ride this weekend and would like to do what is best for the motor.  maybe stay on fireroads varying speeds and gears frequently. avoid wide open starts and don't lug it?

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Do not "nurse" your bike...that's the worst thing you can do to a new motor.  You need to (within reason) push the motor hard for short periods of time.

Nursing the bike will cause a glaze to build up and you will never get the rings to seat properly in the cylinder.

There is a lot of material on this issue on this site and on "KTMTalk"  my suggestion would be to do some "search and read"...you'll find lots of good stuff.

 

also..read this   http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

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Probably the worst thing people do to a cold motor, breakin or not, is start the bike and wing it, wait a couple minutes, don't touch the throttle. Let the bike begin to warm slow and even, then ride off, and even under this situation, the bike is still not fully warm , so ride moderately for another couple minutes before the first wheelie.

But I believe full range of throttle can be used on break in, just not high rpm pinned, but quick, controlled, wacks of the throttle under load, at low to moderate rpm, to force ring expansion.

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1 hour ago, Spud786 said:

Probably the worst thing people do to a cold motor, breakin or not, is start the bike and wing it, wait a couple minutes, don't touch the throttle. Let the bike begin to warm slow and even, then ride off, and even under this situation, the bike is still not fully warm , so ride moderately for another couple minutes before the first wheelie.

But I believe full range of throttle can be used on break in, just not high rpm pinned, but quick, controlled, wacks of the throttle under load, at low to moderate rpm, to force ring expansion.

Funny, I asked the dealer how long to warm the bike up before riding.  He said max 30 seconds. that goes against my understanding of other motors I had built. For example, My Harley with a 124 CI stroked motor, should be hot to touch the cylinder head before riding and then it probably takes another 12-14 miles of highway before its up to temp so I can romp on it.

The dealer also said to turn the bike off with the Key and not use the red switch. that is supposedly only for crashes. 

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I used a paved forestry road for 15 miles as it climbed in elevation about 1000 ft. Perfect for running out the gears and make it work on the slight uphill incline. Dirt would be fine if you can hit higher speeds. Started with a 14/51 drive which is fairly low and easy to get up to speed.  The dealer told me the same as this thread, Ride it like you stole it. Just rode it hard and made it work as the road and safety allowed.

Dealer didn't care about much after the 1st hr. I'll fill it with Honda 10-30 dino oil, go to 14/48 and run it again Sunday for another day of decent weather, then it should be ready for riding. I did not cut the filter to check for metal, but the screens only had small amounts of gasket material present.

DSCN1082.JPG

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Ive seen that video, if you are eluding to its already fully broke in , I would disagree. All engine manufacturers run qc and final testing on the motors. Have you ever noticed after several thousand miles on a 4t motor, the oil begins holding up better, I see it on every motor I own, thats when the motor is fully broke in, but I normally do 300 miles on a 4 stroke before I run sustained high rpm throttle as far as the main break in cycle (before full tilt), unless its a two stroke mx bike or the like, which sees a much quicker run in.

Normally there's an improvement in oil around 1500 miles and again after 8,000 miles on a 4 stroke.   I think slavens says he runs 30 second warm up and gingerly rides off or maybe he instantly rides off, I prefer alittle longer, before the riding off as a routine, but that's just me.

 

 

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3 hours ago, rich781 said:

How do you tell if the Oil's improved after 1500 miles

by the way the oil changes are holding up.

 

I was pretty horrified at how bad the 500 motors oil was after only one hour(60 miles) (specially since it was already broken in on a dyno) KIDDING, usually don't change till 300 miles on new motor being broke in on the street, and normally still looks decent cause breakin time is easier on the motor. Its normally the second change that's the worst, cause thats when you start hammering  and really stressing it.

Ive seen new tight motors be hard on oil, but the ktm took it to a new level.

 

also did a uoa around 2000 miles, being so many were saying its too high strung of race motor to hold up,  and that uoa was really good, nothing high strung about this motor, its solid.

Also I should mention I don't like doing uoa's till 7 or 8,000 miles, when the oil starts holding up better, but I had to get a handle on the ktm while it was early in its life, if there was weird stuff going on.

 

 

Edited by Spud786

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the question was how do you tell the difference ? I dump it at around 100miles and don't really look at it much.

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1 minute ago, Airboss/oc said:

the question was how do you tell the difference ? I dump it at around 100miles and don't really look at it much.

doing 100 mile intervals, I wouldn't expect to see much

I look at the clarity in the drain stream, and as I dump the oil into the recycle bucket, depending on the motor, this is how I set up change intervals, the 15 hour mark seems pretty safe and about right for the ktm .  If the bike was having the clutch ripped out of every corner, such as an mx track, Id expect that time to be shortened. But general trail/ light track and dual sport use the 15 hour mark is fairly sound, Ive not seen a need to deviate, other than when the bike was new and under 1000 miles. I did like the first 60 mile change , then another 200 miles, then 400 miles later, 600 later  ect monitoring how the contamination looked. There was probably 5 oil changes before getting up to a 15 hour interval. and I range anywhere from 13 to 17 hours, on a change normally.

I can always run a uoa to back up what my eye is seeing, which I did on the ktm. As mentioned that uoa looked so good for a motor with only 2,000 miles(which still should be shedding breakin debri), my concern of being a high strung motor faded.

 

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The 17's I believe only have a 1.2 quart oil capacity, verses the 1.6 quart of the previous era bike. When talking a near .4 quart lost , this will factor too.

IMO ktm is doing everything it can to make (book) part change intervals a reality.

Edited by Spud786

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1.3 qts  (41.6 oz) or 1.2 liters per owners manual

Oil change on the RFS was routinely 44 oz with oil for both filter wells. The 500 took 40 oz with a filter soak & well fill yesterday. Doesn't seem to be a lot of difference. I'll put on the bigger billet side case for protection, don't think it adds much oil to the system. Target is center of eye on fill & check it after running the bike.

New bike has a lot in common with the old bike, but still reading up on the guys posting their 500 EXC experience.

 

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Kinda on topic. I just changed my oil for the 1st hour. The middle of the circle on the sight glass on the side stand, right? Not measured on the stand. The manual is not specific.

Regarding break in. I am breaking it in on the street, since there is still snow on the ground. I took it easy the first 20 minutes, and let it cool down. Rode another 20 minutes but slightly more aggressive and let it cool down completely. 3rd ride was 35 minutes, I beat it up a little. A couple hard pulls, lots of varying throttle positions. Then I dumped the oil. Oil was not that bad. Barely any metal in it. The magnetic drain plug had barely anything on it considering it is a new engine. Now I have to do the valves tonight. 

 

We will have a nice warm day next weekend and I will thrash it a little and dump the oil at the end of the day. Should be good after that. 

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10 hours ago, Spud786 said:

oil is checked with bike vertical, not the side stand.

Thanks Spud. Maybe I wasn't reading the manual right but it wasn't clear enough for me. 

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4 hours ago, TriumphTriple said:

Thanks Spud. Maybe I wasn't reading the manual right but it wasn't clear enough for me. 

its supposed to be warm also, as long as you are in between the middle and top of the glass warm, its okay, I actually just like to see an airbubble at top of the glass when full hot. but cold atleast mid glass, I never run below mid glass.

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