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Drain the carb for short term storage?

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Just seeing how everyone deals with fuel storage and deposits on their bikes?

i know manual says to drain pretty all the fuel system if it's more than 60 days

what if it's 2,or 4 or 6 weeks between rides? It's it worth draining the carb to keep the deposits from building up in the bottom of the float bowl?

 Thankx

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Heard draining the bowl can actually increase deposits over time contrary to how you'd think it'd work. Seafoam is a good product if you're worried about gunk buildup or fill up at lousy gas stations

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^older guy I ride with says that draining the carb causes the gaskets to dry out and dry rot faster

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There are tricks:  When you store one where it is warm the fuel evaporates and leaves a 'varnish'.   I guess it would be nice to have a large freezer.   Draining the float bowl will leave a bit of gas that always seems to dry up and leave scum.   When I lived in calif,  and was riding bikes with an overflow and two vents I played with plugging up the vents when I was going to leave the bike for very long.   The gas we had in the 60's and 70's congealed even faster,  but didnt pick up moisture like the "corn" fuel some deal with now.  Now we have lots more vents (tooth pics and nails work) to plug up.

If you are having trouble with it now,  and can get avgas (it comes with some pluses and minuses) you can kiss the varnishing problems goodbye.  If not,  you can drain the bowl,  and run something down the fuel line that doesn't evaporate as easily as gasoline.   Diesel fuel does just fine.  It won't be a fire hazard when you drain it.   It is cheap.  Seafoam and other additive type products work fine too.  I have had zero negative affects even when I do this with 4 cylinder bikes.  Put some in a condiment squeeze bottle and keep it with your tools.  It is reuseable.  Easy to put a drainline on the float bowl to make it even easier.

I think the real answer is to just ride every week though.

Edited by ossagp

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^ keep running the bike weekly is the best way even if it's for a few minutes, if you want to drain the bowl because it has been a month or so do this immediately before you ride and make sure you re-prime it

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On his YZ250, MXJunky drains the carb if the bike is gonna sit for three or more weeks.  MXJunky just opened up the carb after two years of this process and everything inside is nice and clean.

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My thoughts are if it's a 2T with mixed fuel, draining won't dry the gaskets out. The oil residue left behind should keep it softened up. A 4t might be a different story. I usually don't drain mine unless they aren't going to be used for a month. That is usually rare. I get really bummed if I don't get to at least take a little ride in a month.

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If the bike is stored in a closed garage six weeks there should likely be no issues. 

If I am going to store them for sometime longer than six weeks. I shut off the petcock and run them till the motor stops. Much longer periods I put stabile or another fuel treatment in. 

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Lots of misinformation here.....

 

First off, you need to empty the bowl completely for it to do any good. Running it 'dry' is not actually empting it. 

Leaning the bike to the ground, both sides, will drain all the fuel out of any carb, without tools. 

....BUT, this is no guarantee that the residue that is left inside the jets (which will be held by the meniscus effect) will go away on it's own....in fact, it wont....and the corrosion will start.

Also, there are no fiber gaskets in carbs anymore, so keeping them 'wet' to keep them working, is a falacy. It's all composite now.

Second, 6 weeks or less is not a problem IF the tank is a normal tank (so don't store your gas in a bucket....) and does not outgas quickly.

Third, there is fuel treatment for storage, use, and contamination. Some do all three, like Pri-G or Torco.  Using Seafoam in a MC is a waste of time for 6 weeks, as it has not outgassed enough by then.......but, if like me your local fuel is 10% ethanol (which it can be without being labeled....), then you need to fight of contamination, which can start in as little as two weeks, and continue to form in the carb, even after you have changed the fuel (the contamination/corrosion does not stop, once it starts, until you arrest it). That is where putting in 5cc per gallon of anti-contamination product (Pri-G, Torco) will save you a huge headache if you forget  to drain, or, if you get bad gas, or, if you get water in your gas.

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If you can find non eythinol gas use it and treat it everytime with Startron. Then just forget it. You can leave your bike stored for months, turn on petcock, fire it up and ride. I've been doing this for years with bikes, snowmobiles, generators, mowers, not one problem. I don't even bother draining gas from vehicles at the start of the season anymore, just top em off and go. They all run perfectly.

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