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2016 WP shock questions

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Hello all,

I recently picked up a pair of cone valve forks which are amazing but now I can really feel the short comings of the shock. I replaced the stock reservoir with a SDI bladder for ease of rebuild and help cut down on stiction. I noticed when I had it all apart the rebound adjuster would never turn all the way out. Is something broken in there? It will turn in until it bottoms but never hits a stopping point when turning counter clockwise. How do I take this out to inspect it?

Also after tuning it in, its 3 clicks from full closed on rebound and I feel its still a bit springy and just never seems to feel planted in the rear. I can add rebound shims and have several laying around (as long as it uses 12mm ID shims) if that is the answer I am just not sure it is at this point. I put 150psi of nitrogen in the shock. What is everyone running in their wp shocks with bladders?

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Just one extra shim makes a big difference to where the adjuster goes , how many clicks do you have for rebound? Without forcing it , you need a special socket to get the clevis apart

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Std is 34 so I think yours is working but the clicks are not evident, I have seen that before

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Found the issue with the shock. It seems the rebound shaft is gummed up inside of the shock shaft. I can take a small allen wrench and press through the top of the shock shaft while clicking out and it will come down and the rebound clicker will stop when turning counter clockwise. If you do not push down with the allen it will turn forever. You can then push the rebound shaft down with the allen. I have the collar at the bottom loose from the clevis but am still unsure how to separate the shock shaft from the clevis.

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It just unscrews

Is this with the shock apart? It needs the nitrogen pressure to make the clicker work properly

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Yes that was with the shock apart. I thought the nitrogen pressure may play a roll since there isn't a return spring or anything. I got it all apart and cleaned up. Reinstalled and put the shock back on the bike. The rebound circuit is still messed up. From full open to full closed makes zero difference on how fast the shock rebounds. It looks like the clevis / shaft assembley is on backorder until april as well on the rocky mountain website. Is this a common problem on these shocks?

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Sounds like the needle is stuck? Not heard of problems on the 16 , on the 11 to 15 yes

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So the only part that matters if the needle is moving is the clicker itself, unless you put the piston in upside down, I've seen that a few times on the forum, then you get no rebound damping

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I have done some stupid stuff before but I made sure when I took it apart I slid it all onto a zip tie so I wouldn't get anything messed up. It came from a fairly reputable suspension builder but I know its not hard to make a mistake. I plan to take the shock apart again and check it over to make sure that's not what is happening.

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The clicker should have a definite stop at both ends of adjustment when it's attached to the shaft

If the needle is going up and down with the clicker it's working, fully in if there is no way to blow air through the centre hole , the adjuster is working

On the piston the bigger shims should be on the bottom half of the piston

E.g. 44mm shims on the bottom side of the piston and the 40mm at the top side with the ckevus pointing down

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I just went through a frozen rebound adjuster on my 2014 WP shock. Suspension tuner said it's common and a pita to take it apart so they usually try to free it with some penetrating lube first. Mine broke free and I was counting 21 clicks total after working it a bunch. For a while I couldn't really feel definite clicks but now it feels pretty good.

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If you have a bad "match" (or damage etc) between needle and tube for rebound, when you turn the rebound in clockwise to full stop it can get stuck. Count rebounds from full open (counter clockwise) instead and avoid going the last 3-4 clicks and see if that improves.

What rear spring, preload, sag and weight + length are you at? Should not have to close the rebound that much.

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The newest update. I took everything apart again to inspect the piston direction and all is right. (the 44mm shims were on the bottom) . I went ahead and ordered a new clevis/rod/rebound needle assembly from Adam at Kreft Moto who was great to work with and it seems to have fixed my problem. I still need to tune it in but just pushing the shock down without the spring installed the clicker actually makes changes now.

After speaking with Adam he told me they have seen several 2016 and up shocks with no stop when turning counter clockwise on the rebound due to the needle not returning all the way down but has not seen one with a completely non functioning rebound system. 

Addeeriksson the spring is a 4.8 I believe (going from memory) im 190 without gear sag set at 105mm. 

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21 hours ago, turborex696 said:

The newest update. I took everything apart again to inspect the piston direction and all is right. (the 44mm shims were on the bottom) . I went ahead and ordered a new clevis/rod/rebound needle assembly from Adam at Kreft Moto who was great to work with and it seems to have fixed my problem. I still need to tune it in but just pushing the shock down without the spring installed the clicker actually makes changes now.

After speaking with Adam he told me they have seen several 2016 and up shocks with no stop when turning counter clockwise on the rebound due to the needle not returning all the way down but has not seen one with a completely non functioning rebound system. 

Addeeriksson the spring is a 4.8 I believe (going from memory) im 190 without gear sag set at 105mm. 

105 is to little on a 48 spring. 37-39 static should do it and go back out on rebound clicks instead. 39 is good for you. im 198 without gear and run 37-39mm with 153-154 psi.

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I have always thought that race sag was more important than static sag. From what I have read the only time you really look at a static is when you are trying to determine if you have the correct spring. (set race sag correct then check for a certain amount of static sag) Please correct me if I am wrong.  I know KTM calls for 110mm of race sag but the front end felt like it had no traction when I tried this. I suppose I could try 107ish. 

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what clicker settings are you on? front and rear. I dont care for race sag that much. only use static ones i know i got the right spring. To much variation in race sag depending on how you sit etc.

 

I have been testing 105-110mm last 2 weeks and it is unrideable with 105 and 48 spring, way to stiff. Would have to be at 155psi on the AER and get armpump right away. 108-110 works (around 38,39,40mm static depending on rears sprocket and chain length)

 

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I have not messed with my clickers on the front forks too much. I always like to get the shock dialed in then play with fork clickers. I also have the Cone Valve forks (not AER) so my clicker settings may not apply. They are currently right in the middle of the range.   As far as shock is concerned I counted the total number of clicks and set it to the middle for compression 12 out? 2 full turns out on the high speed and 8 clicks out on the rebound. (it works now yay)

I had a Mideast race today and had my girl help me set the sag to 107 (I always stand on the pegs so my weight is the same spot and have her push down and measure and then pull up and measure and take an average.)  Man the bike is a whole different beast with a functioning shock. I actually flowed pretty well today and it held traction pretty well even on hard packed red clay.

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