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Need help with engine oil

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OK, I know this topic has been beat like a dead horse but I'm just not finding any reliable answers. The bike is a 2008 KX450F

So, I live in South Dakota where the climate ranges from 60-100 °F. I know the manual says 5w-40 but all the shops around here don't carry it. So I picked up some Castrol Power 1 10w-50 today and in wondering if this will work fine? I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to this stuff...:(

Any help would be very appreciated, Thank you

Edited by BAJACRAZY
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gonna b fine, i run the castrol racing 20-50 in mine, let it warm up good and you will be fine. where in SD are you>?

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1 minute ago, kxjim said:

gonna b fine, i run the castrol racing 20-50 in mine, let it warm up good and you will be fine. where in SD are you>?

I live outside of Hartford, its a little town outside of Sioux Falls. I have a track and about 40 acres of land I share with my good friend that has some trails to play with out here:ride:

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I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. It might even be better than 5w40 on those really warm days. Just make sure it's at least JASO-MA compliant (certified would be even better).

I use Rotella 15w40 diesel oil myself. I can usually grab it at $3 per quart (I buy it in 5 gallon buckets as I use it in all my motorcycles and my truck). It's JASO-MA compliant and has never caused me any issues. 

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If you can get  10-50 (warmer climate ) it will be good.

The low number 10 is cold start thickness 

Use proper mx oil it always better in the long run (Now I've started it again!? )

Download  manual always nice to have

 

Edited by skorpan777

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6 hours ago, skorpan777 said:

If you can get  10-50 (warmer climate ) it will be good.

The low number 10 is cold start thickness 

Use proper mx oil it always better in the long run (Now I've started it again!? )

Download  manual always nice to have

 

I do have a manual, I just wanted to check and such

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just in case someone is wondering why you shouldn't use car oil in a motorcycle....

answer: because its designed for car engine..easy as... and a car engine is missing one component : a gearbox !!

most motorcycles have the gearbox together with the engine, so where does the gear oil (which you use in a car) go ?

answer : Motorcycle oil contains all additives for the extreme pressures between gears.

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Same reason you shouldn't use diesel oil in a car.  Oils have specific purposes and do NOT use regular car oil in a motorcycle wet clutch system.  I know this guy has a 4 stroke but on 2 strokes you can use high quality Trans fluid, i have used that with good results too.

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Same reason you shouldn't use diesel oil in a car.  Oils have specific purposes and do NOT use regular car oil in a motorcycle wet clutch system.  I know this guy has a 4 stroke but on 2 strokes you can use high quality Trans fluid, i have used that with good results too.

Yep, car oils have friction modifiers that will render the clutch inoperable. Diesel oils are actually very similar to motorcycle oils in that they have high levels of ZDDP and no friction modifiers. I think that's why Shell puts "JASO MA compliant" on the bottle of Rotella. No, it's not certified but yes it does meet all the specs.
The important thing is, if you are unsure, be on the safe side and buy the oil that the service manual recommends.

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I only uses Motul.  Yes its exensive but i just tore my entire motor down at 108 hours and everything still pretty much looked brand new.

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On 25/03/2017 at 3:37 AM, pavetim said:

I only uses Motul.  Yes its exensive but i just tore my entire motor down at 108 hours and everything still pretty much looked brand new.

In my KX450F I only use diesel oil. Presently using Australian Penrite HPR 10w50.  Shifting and clutch feel is excellent. Most my hours done on Shell Rimula X3 and Caltex Delo 400. 5 to 6 hrs per change. Very cheap in 10 or 20L containers.

Replaced my crank after 300 hrs and everything looked like new. I replace pistons every 100 hrs and they (Wiseco std comp) always look very good. I don't ride it real hard, but hard enough to spend what I think is a lot on chains, sprockets, brake parts, grips, bearings, tires, suspension, motor seals, cables, air filters, throttle tubes, levers, shifters, pegs, wheels, etc. The usual stuff.   Plus two sets of new valves, 5 timing chains, valve seats redone.

Tried some bike oils in the early days. Didn't like the stubborn gear shifting, or the cost of frequent oil changes.

Diesel oils that meet the specs for serious industrial use are superb oils for protection against wear.

Diesel oils are great for car engines - if it is the right viscosity and if you don't need to protect the anti-pollution devices in the exhaust.

If an oil might be a bit thick for cold starts, then gently kick the motor over about 10 times slowly with the kill switch pressed to build up oil pressure to the top end.

 

Edited by numroe

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19 hours ago, numroe said:

In my KX450F I only use diesel oil. Presently using Australian Penrite HPR 10w50.  Shifting and clutch feel is excellent. Most my hours done on Shell Rimula X3 and Caltex Delo 400. 5 to 6 hrs per change. Very cheap in 10 or 20L containers.

Replaced my crank after 300 hrs and everything looked like new. I replace pistons every 100 hrs and they (Wiseco std comp) always look very good. I don't ride it real hard, but hard enough to spend what I think is a lot on chains, sprockets, brake parts, grips, bearings, tires, suspension, motor seals, cables, air filters, throttle tubes, levers, shifters, pegs, wheels, etc. The usual stuff.   Plus two sets of new valves, 5 timing chains, valve seats redone.

Tried some bike oils in the early days. Didn't like the stubborn gear shifting, or the cost of frequent oil changes.

Diesel oils that meet the specs for serious industrial use are superb oils for protection against wear.

Diesel oils are great for car engines - if it is the right viscosity and if you don't need to protect the anti-pollution devices in the exhaust.

If an oil might be a bit thick for cold starts, then gently kick the motor over about 10 times slowly with the kill switch pressed to build up oil pressure to the top end.

 

I know people  use Rotella but never heard of people use Rimula because they are not exactly the same. (According to shell, I don't know for sure)

I have 132 hours on my 450 14 and never changed a valve and shimmed it twice 

I wanted to try Rotella but here in Sweden Shell only sell Rimula and I found that it's not Jaso MA like Rotella. (Read on backside of bottle )

I usee Maxima and Statoil Mc oil.

They are little pricey  but IMO if I follow 15 h mark like manual says and not every 3 hour like some does and I do see any extra wear 

Edited by skorpan777
Bad spelling

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3 hours ago, skorpan777 said:

I wanted to try Rotella but here in Sweden Shell only sell Rimula and I found that it's not Jaso MA like Rotella. (Read on backside of bottle )

After using JASO MA oils and thinking the shifting and clutch feel was crap, I thought about what makes me feel better? How the bike works or some bike oil standard on the bottle.  The standards that matter to me are those like API CI4-Plus for extremely high load usage. High performance diesel oils contain the good stuff like zinc. If these diesel oils are used in very big expensive engines which fail, then the machinery suppliers (eg. Cat) will often try sue the oil company if the oil is tested and not up to spec.

When Shell Aus stopped selling Rimula X3 and sold X4, I didn't like the oil as much because of the change in the clutch feel and gear shifting.  So I decided to give Penrite HPR oil a try guessing it would not impress me and I'd go back to Delo 400, but the Penrite product is excellent. I also use the same Penrite oil in my YZ250 transmission and that thing shifts amazing. I put all new trans bearings in the YZ but everything else is original and it shifts great after 200+ hrs. I use the HPR10 for winter and the HPR15 for summer.

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