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Merge Spring Installation

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How do you do it?

I have the old spring out and have hooked the Merge spring around the arm. Either I'm weak as a girl or that spring is too thick. Also as you tighten it, it binds on the post and then you can't fit the plastic lever into it. There has to be a trick, otherwise this is $20 wasted and I'll just re-wire it.

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I figured this out, works better if you remove the whole guide arm and relieve the screw, it is really tight. Then guide the whole assembly back in.

HOWEVER, I DO NOT RECOMMEND DOING THIS MOD! IT IS A COLOSSAL WASTE OF TIME! IT IS NOT A RELIABLE MODIFICATION!

The spring is too tight, probably not the same spec as Merge Racing originally built, I got my spring from ProCycle.

What happens is the coils tighten up and then cannot clear the brass shoulder at the bottom of the brass post. This then binds the whole mechanism and it sticks without returning to the idle position. I TRIED and TRIED to get the spring to guide onto the post and miss the shoulder. Opening the spring did relieve the pressure to an extent, but it still wants to spread in the wrong direction (i.e. between the bottom of the post and the washer/clip) You can see this happen, by cycling the throttle, the black plastic lever walks up the brass post and then binds. You can push it back down and it is fine for a cycle or two of the throttle, then it binds.

Thought I was crazy, then I reinstalled the original spring, no more binding. The plastic arm is still loose on the brass shaft but the spring doesn't bind the mechanism.

Saftey wire it and FORGET ABOUT THIS MODIFICATION.

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I bought mine from CRF's only.

You either bought an inferior copy cat unit or can't​ figure out how to put on a spring.

I stand by my recommendation of the Merging Racing Spring. I have no qualms about calling a POS a POS.

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Did yours come with the Merge Racing installation papers by chance?

The spring I received is a different shape than the original and mounts a little differently. When I get back into town I can send a pic of how mine is installed.

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Mine is a FrankMX!, and yes it was a slight PITA to get installed.

 

However, I don't have to worry about the O-ring failing any more. :thumbsup:

Edited by Bermudacat
:thumbsup:

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I play with springs all the time, Clocks are hobby of mine, it's installed correctly. I purchased it from ProCycle.

ProCycle

It doesn't look the same as represented on CFR's Only, it looks similar to the stock spring, only with thicker wire.

It came with no papers. Just a spring in a bag that said: Merge Racing Spring. (It might have said "FCR Spring," I don't recall)

The problem is that it is too strong. When it is caught on the lower lever and the black pump lever, the coils tighten. As a result of the coils tightening, the spring widens. When it widens, it pushes up between the brass shoulder and the black pump lever. This then limits clearance against the washer and e-clip, which binds the pump arm and pump rod. This in effect stalls the AP and doesn't allow it to return to idle.

On my carb, purchased through TT/Sudco within the past month. There is a raised cast body portion at the 6:00 position of the AP lever post. Rotating the spring as shown Here (installation instructions) figure 4 & 5 is impossible due to this raised portion. Pulling the lower lever out (below the black pump lever), I was able to manipulate the spring on correctly.

I'm good with the safety wire over the spring at this point as now after playing with it, there's no way to bend or bind the pump rod. Just wish I didn't waste the time to figure that out and spend $25 on a useless spring.

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Yes I know, I said $20 then $25. But I tried ProCycle both ways. Once with just the spring and then with a cable luber, it was still $10.95 shipping. A total rip off for a spring that weighs .01 ounces. $14.95 for a spring and $10.95 shipping, all hell naw!

The cable luber probably doesn't work either!

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Before anyone goes there, yes the lower spring (that goes beneath the cam lever and the Merge Racing Spring) was installed correctly and the Merge Racing Spring still stalled the AP lever and rod.

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Fyi,

If you have a FCR from an 08 or later Honda CRFxxxR the spring is not needed and will not fit.

IMG_20170318_152335857.jpg Honda carb Ap arm is on the right. The throttle pushes the arm.Screenshot_20170321-220625.png Every other FCR. The Ap arm is on the left and is pulled by the spring, hence the reason for a stiffer spring or o-ring mod.

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No, I never took it that way.

I can be dense at times, but replacing parts, I'm very aware of what's going on. That's not to say I haven't f'd up doing so, but usually when that happens, I'll admit it. The funny thing is 9/10 times that happens, I'll say to myself; Self, if you don't do this, this will happen. And by gholly, it does!

This mod, IMO, has to be the biggest waste of time in the history of the DRZ and FCR hyperbole. There's a limited understanding of just why there may be a problem wiring the linkage together and as it turns out, the supposed "correct modification" has the potential to make the problem being solved even worse.

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Mine is like the one with the blue/green marks on the springs.

The metal lever below is driven by the cable spool, the spring attaches to that metal lever and then interfaces with the black pump lever.

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Mine is like the one with the blue/green marks on the springs.
The metal lever below is driven by the cable spool, the spring attaches to that metal lever and then interfaces with the black pump lever.

Honda owns a large share of Keihin so that's​ probably the reason they get the better design. Even the tiny FCR on my daughter's 150 had the flip flopped setup.

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thnksno...I know we were discussing it on the FCR thread, but here are the pics of the spring prior to install and after install.  The PROCYCLE spring worked well for me and I think I used a a set of needle nose pliers or channel locks to get it installed.  I was complaining about the install to a friend and that is why I took the pics.  It was snagging prior to the e-clip install, but worked well after.

IMG_9547.JPG

IMG_9548.JPG

IMG_9549.JPG

Edited by RAE129

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Yeah, that looks exactly like it. Don't make me go out and dig that thing out of the scrap metals bin! Lol! Looks like you have all the same battle scars on the carb body that I do!

Here's a picture of mine installed. Notice the brass post and the black plastic pump lever, see how it isn't flush?

To get mine installed I needed to remove the metal cam lever/adjustment screw mount that rides over the post that the black pump lever rides on, then reinstall the whole thing at once. I did this because as I tightened the spring, it winds onto the post and wouldn't provide clearance to insert the black pump lever. I tried numerous ways to wind the spring, note that hump in the carb body below the post, i was about ready to file that thing off!

I'm at a loss as for how you might have put tension that spring and then slid the black pump lever on.

 

20170321_165615.jpg

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thnksno, I'd like to tell you I did it with my natural strength but that would be flat out lying.... :thumbsup: 

I wish I could give you step by step instructions of how I installed the spring, but all I remember is how extremely frustrated I was and after reading the Merge Racing directions online all I kept thinking was these directions don't give any advice on how to really get this thing on.  I remember having needle nose pliers and channel locks with me.  I think I compressed the spring with one of those two tools and then slid the black lever onto the stud while the spring was still compressed.  Once the black lever was on the stud, it was getting snagged when I would twist the throttle cable wheel.  I then thought, all this trouble to get this thing on and it doesn't work!!!! I pushed down on the lever and twisted the throttle and it worked, so I mounted the E-clip and the rest is history.

I would go get it and try again.  Don't give up and just be cautious and patient. 

Oh, I forgot to mention that I did not remove anything other than one of the screws holding the overflow tubes. 

Edited by RAE129
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