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2017 TX 300 stalls on long steep downhills

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I have a 2017 TX 300.  Loving it so far, amazing really.  I have one issue left that I can't find a solution for.  In short on long steep downhills it stalls.  I can keep feathering the throttle but it's a bit annoying when it's super technical.  I have read this is an issue with many 300's.  Anyway, thoughts, ideas and solves out there?  I have 21 hours on the bike, just changed out the spark plug, it's looking rich, however it's the original plug so it was started before the JD kit, before the FMF 2.0 (for spark arrestor) and before the V force reeds.   With the JD kit I had the blue needle in and for my altitude.  Since it's getting warmer and getting into more technical riding I did swap it out for the red needle.  Thanks all, will post under jetting as well.  

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is this when the clutch is pulled in? could you not turn the tickover up a touch? its something ive never had a problem with tbh

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it you are free wheeling down hill and locking the rear brake this will cause it to stall. i sometimes do this when im panic breaking for those 'oh sh*t i aint stopping in time! moments

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2 hours ago, sandking11 said:

is this when the clutch is pulled in? could you not turn the tickover up a touch? its something ive never had a problem with tbh

Yes, clutch all the way in, wondering if I have some clutch drag.  Actually even in neutral, tired that a few times on long steep downs to see.  If I turn the idle up it's fine for the downhills but high everywhere else.  I am using Motul 800 oil and wondering if that could be a partial factor for slower speed riding.

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I have a Reluse Core 3.0 Installed and the Lectron Carburetor and a RK TEK Head and the TX 300 runs like a champ. The Rekluse feels like a normal clutch and when or if you lock up the rear tire it will not stall.....

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Try talking to JD about this issue, he is very active on KTMtalk. According to him you want the bike jetted to where it is VERY close to dying on downhills, apparently that is a sweet spot for 2 strokes.

I have the same bike, and same set up as you and I have this problem as well. Bike is jetted incredibly everywhere else though. I could try messing with the idle a bit to see if I can find a better happy medium.

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interestingly enough, I have the same bike with a Lectron HV and had this happening..  I haven't had it stall completely but it does load up and sound like it want to, and then I have to rev it a few times to clear it out and it's good to go..   I called lectron and they gave me instructions for a fix, which I did, but haven't ridden the bike yet to see if it worked... They had heard it before and were fairly certain this would work..

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interestingly enough, I have the same bike with a Lectron HV and had this happening..  I haven't had it stall completely but it does load up and sound like it want to, and then I have to rev it a few times to clear it out and it's good to go..   I called lectron and they gave me instructions for a fix, which I did, but haven't ridden the bike yet to see if it worked... They had heard it before and were fairly certain this would work..


Curious what their fix was? Leaning the rod 1/4-1/2 I'm guessing?

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actually just installing a T in the vent line and running a small piece of tubing off the top of it up under the gas tank as an additional vent..  They said that there's a vent hole that gets blocked at the steep angle causing the bike to load up, and running that extra vent up higher allows for more back pressure to keep the hole from closing or something...  I'm not that adept, but it made sense to me...  the hose vents down under the bike in stock form creating almost a syphon.. 

I'll report back after I ride it..

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Check your float bowl height, they come overly rich from the factory. Most are around 6.5mm but should be at 8.5'sh

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On 3/30/2017 at 7:12 AM, KennyMc said:

Check your float bowl height, they come overly rich from the factory. Most are around 6.5mm but should be at 8.5'sh

I was going to suggest this. I kept fouling plugs on my 2009 Husky wr250 after long mountain descents. It turned out the float bowl was pouring gas into the engine on the downhill. I haven't fouled a plug since adjusting. My WR250 has a Kehien carb not the original crappy Mikuni...

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On 3/21/2017 at 10:49 AM, ktmtruckee said:

I have a 2017 TX 300.  Loving it so far, amazing really.  I have one issue left that I can't find a solution for.  In short on long steep downhills it stalls.  I can keep feathering the throttle but it's a bit annoying when it's super technical.  I have read this is an issue with many 300's.  Anyway, thoughts, ideas and solves out there?  I have 21 hours on the bike, just changed out the spark plug, it's looking rich, however it's the original plug so it was started before the JD kit, before the FMF 2.0 (for spark arrestor) and before the V force reeds.   With the JD kit I had the blue needle in and for my altitude.  Since it's getting warmer and getting into more technical riding I did swap it out for the red needle.  Thanks all, will post under jetting as well.  

I don't think I understand this.. So on what other bikes does the motor not die out on on long steep downhills? and  don't you just pop the clutch and it starts again? or hit the button? Why do you need the bike running..? or want to? I mean you can just clutch and  rev a little but that isn't working right for you????

Edited by hawaiidirtrider

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15 hours ago, hawaiidirtrider said:

I don't think I understand this.. So on what other bikes does the motor not die out on on long steep downhills? and  don't you just pop the clutch and it starts again? or hit the button? Why do you need the bike running..? or want to? I mean you can just clutch and  rev a little but that isn't working right for you????

None of my other bikes have done this, that being said they were all were all 4 strokes.   I got it working properly after some playing around with jetting and reeds.  80 hours on the clock and running like a champ.  So you want your bike to die on downhills, interesting.

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34 minutes ago, ktmtruckee said:

None of my other bikes have done this, that being said they were all were all 4 strokes.   I got it working properly after some playing around with jetting and reeds.  80 hours on the clock and running like a champ.  So you want your bike to die on downhills, interesting.

Yea it's better in certain circumstances ..less effort and braking is with the clutch use and front brake.. You said steep downhills so in some instances for sure dead engine is better and common here.. All you do is let out the clutch and kick start toward the bottom. Some hills you don't want any momentum at all or you'll lose control and it's dangerous.. like left or right off a cliff for ex. This is usually way more hairy as it's usually wet but it's till steep.. can't tell as much as the camera is facing down.. but no need to have in ear here.. Actually it's safer. ..

 

Edited by hawaiidirtrider

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1 hour ago, hawaiidirtrider said:

Yea it's better in certain circumstances ..less effort and braking is with the clutch use and front brake.. You said steep downhills so in some instances for sure dead engine is better and common here.. All you do is let out the clutch and kick start toward the bottom. Some hills you don't want any momentum at all or you'll lose control and it's dangerous.. like left or right off a cliff for ex. This is usually way more hairy as it's usually wet but it's till steep.. can't tell as much as the camera is facing down.. but no need to have in ear here.. Actually it's safer. ..

 

Agreed, I cut engine in certain circumstances as well, definitely keep bike from overheating too!  Works great when it's not super rocky, similar trails but with with rocks and roots sometimes you need engine on and a little throttle blip to keep up the momentum.  I know camera doesn't do it justice and it's steeper than it looks.  Off topic but are your bars cut down, they look super narrow?

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13 minutes ago, ktmtruckee said:

Agreed, I cut engine in certain circumstances as well, definitely keep bike from overheating too!  Works great when it's not super rocky, similar trails but with with rocks and roots sometimes you need engine on and a little throttle blip to keep up the momentum.  I know camera doesn't do it justice and it's steeper than it looks.  Off topic but are your bars cut down, they look super narrow?

Bars are not cut.. It's pro taper ktm suzuki bend a little taller but similar to Beta stock bars.

I'm 6'1" with sort of longer arms for my height.. and maybe camera angle? idk.. but it isn't narrow bars at all just sort of normal average width.

Edited by hawaiidirtrider

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My 2016 te300 with Lectron has also done this. Especially bad if chain is a bit loose. Incredibly irritating. 

This isn't normal at all. 

Is it a bike issue or a Lectron issue? I bought the Lectron for ease and have had lots of trouble with it, sent back twice. About ready to put the stock carb back. 

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I have the 2017 TE300 and it does it too. I have been watching Graham Jarvis's helmet cam video from Romaniacs a few weeks ago. He is on a TE300. There were several instances where his bike stalled on long downhills. He just hit the button at the bottom. 

Now, Graham's bike is fuel injected and has a hinson clutch. So, I don't think it has to do with jetting. It is perplexing. 

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