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Stealth Mode Wiring

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Didn't want to necro a 2009 thread...

Has anyone wired a headlight and taillight killswitch? For the track and dirt I'd like the option to run the bike with no lights. I like the solution in this thread - to use the parking mode on the ignition instead of adding another switch. Wiring is foreign to me, can anyone confirm these instructions or suggest other methods before I hack up my harness?

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/690078-military-black-out-switch-on-drz/?page=3#comment-6986450

Quote

found the previous post explaining how to do it. cut and paste follows:

Well, since I had no power here in Toronto today, I decided to finally

wire up a stealth switch on my "S". Basically what I wanted was a way

to kill all the lights (including brake light) on the bike while still

maintaining engine, warning instrument lights, cooling fan and other

essentials.

After studying the wiring diagram, I figured out a very easy way to do

this. The key has a "P" position which leaves the rear tail light on

but nothing else. Since I have no use for that function I decided to

use that key position instead of adding a separate switch.

After cutting two wires and adding two jumpers (all behind the

headlight) I could run the engine in "P" with no lights, no instruments,

no fan, nothing but engine. Very cool!

1. Cut the brown wire coming out of the ignition switch.

2. Cut the Orange/Yellow wire going to the engine kill switch.

3. Add a jumper between the brown wire coming out of the ignition switch

and the Orange/Yellow wire going to the kill switch. Your engine will

now run with the key in the "P" position.

4. Add a jumper between the brown wire going to the tail light (the

other end of the one you cut in step 1) and the Orange/Yellow wire which

used to feed the kill switch (the other end of the one you cut in step

2). Your tail light will now operate whenever your headlight is on.

That's it folks! To get instruments working as well as the cooling fan,

you need to run more jumpers from the brown wire coming out of the

ignition switch to the various devices. Orange/Green on the warning

lights cluster, Orange on the speedo thingy, and Blue on the fan. Email

me if you need more details...

My speedo stays on in the "P" position, but the backlight is off. If

you want backlight, you have to wire up the Gray wire too. I also have

all warning lights working in "P", the neutral light is quite bright and

the only one which is I wouldn't mind dimming somehow... another

project. I also wired up the cooling fan to work normally in "P" mode.

That required wiring under the tank, but if you skip that (fan is only

really needed when you're not moving, plus you still have your coolant

light working to warn you), then all wiring changes are done behind the

headlight, you touch nothing else!

So now I can go trail riding without lights, or let the bike warm up in

my driveway without lights having to be on. An added bonus is that you

can remove your key when in the "P" position, so you don't have to have

it rattling around on the trails. I measured a draw of about .6 amps

when the key is in "P", but keep in mind that I have all the instruments

wired up. When the fan kicks in, it adds another 1.6 amps for a total

of 2.2. The fan draws up to 3 amps when it first starts up, but this is

very momentary, so I feel the feed from the brown wire is enough. If

you are concerned about this, add a relay along the way. I didn't...

Anyways, I better sign off now... must conserve power! I was without it

for over 24 hours!!! Even had to dig out my 12 volt soldering iron!

:~)

 

wire harness.jpg

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Also considering a switch like this with a headlight off function. I'd be nice to replace that bulky stock switch, but I heard these are not that durable, have plastic threads, and would make the wiring more complex.

CRFHeadlightMod016_zps5f37c8b5.jpg

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1 minute ago, NEKOOHC said:

That is a CRF , I don't recognise the switch block . 

I know it's a CRF, I just liked the pic. The switch is just a universal headlight switch. Lots of companies sell them as their brand, but they all look like the same product.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/282390161959

 

 

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Just as another simple option... Stock key has extra holes in the bracket that fit a 7/16" toggle switch like a glove. Ran it as an innerupt on the low beam, so I can just cut to lows and throw my switch to kill the headlight but preserve brakes/turn signals (if they are on)

Not exactly what your looking for, but think it was pretty simple and easy to totally remove so figured I'd pass it along as a backup option.

Good luck

Edited by RC_ichard

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Hans - Yes the rewire you reference will work.  The brown wire is a dedicated wire for the taillight.  So anything you connect to the brown wire gets power with the key switch in PARK.

Key switch ON the brown wire is powered by the gray wire which is powered from an orange wire.  Key switch PARK the brown wire is powered directly from the red wire at the key switch.

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13 hours ago, Noble said:

Hans - Yes the rewire you reference will work.  The brown wire is a dedicated wire for the taillight.  So anything you connect to the brown wire gets power with the key switch in PARK.

Key switch ON the brown wire is powered by the gray wire which is powered from an orange wire.  Key switch PARK the brown wire is powered directly from the red wire at the key switch.

Thanks Noble, it’s making more sense now. Technically there are two orange/yellow wires going to the killswitch. Do you think one would be better than another?

 

Nevermind the second one is an orange/white. Hard to tell on this low rez pic.

Screenshot_1.png

Edited by HansLanda

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Before the Kill switch (left arrow) for the kill switch to still be functional after the mod.

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Ok great. And if I wanted the radiator fan to function normally in stealth mode, I would have to add a jumper the Brown hot, and splice it into the blue fan wire, correct?

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Yes but you have to cut the blue wire so it only receives power from the brown wire. (insulate the cut end that goes back to the wire harness) If you just "T" into the blue fan wire it will back feed an power the orange wire and everything connected to orange which is everything.

Keep in mind when the key switch is ON both orange and brown wires are hot so everything connected to those wires is powered up.  When the key switch is PARK only the brown is powered so whatever you have connected just to brown is powered.

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Got it working. So easy to do too. Right now, they're just connected with bullet connectors and the Orange/Yellow and Brown wires are pretty close to each other and parallel, at least in my rat's nest of cables. I'll solder them when I get jumpers and add the rad fan.

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Looks good. So will this effect anything else that important to the way the bike runs? Wont cause any other electronics on the bike to get fried or killed from not having power when the bike is running? Thanks, I think this would be a nice mod.

Edited by Greebe

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1 hour ago, Greebe said:

Looks good. So will this effect anything else that important to the way the bike runs? Wont cause any other electronics on the bike to get fried or killed from not having power when the bike is running? Thanks, I think this would be a nice mod.

I don’t believe any damage could be caused, no. I will be wiring up the fan in the future because I plan to use this in the dirt, so it’s possible to boil over in stealth mode. Unlike the instructions I quoted, I did not have any speedo or indicator lights after doing this mod. 
So I would like to add power to the temp sensor and fan, so they will kick in like normal. Noble cleared up how to wire the fan, but I’m still a bit fuzzy if the temp sensor is powered in Park mode. Aside from crappy wiring, this mod should not affect anything negatively in On or Park mode.

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Fan thermo-switch is on the ground wire side.  It turns a ON and OFF regardless of where the fan power comes from.  The fan will work normal powered from the brown wire to the blue wire.

Just to clarify - this mod is not my creation.  I  do not promote it or criticize it one way or the other.  It is technically correct for what the poster wants to do.  I'm not a big fan of cutting into the original wire harness but as long as it is well done it should work fine as intended with no bad consequences.

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I use this mod to help charge my battery when it's low and I manage to get the bike running.

Not having the headlight, tail and dash lit up when I'm trying to charge the battery really speeds things up.  

I haven't test it, but I'd imagine it'd help when bump starting.

 

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On 3/22/2017 at 7:15 PM, Noble said:

  So anything you connect to the brown wire gets power with the key switch in PARK.

 

Good to know for an E4 headlight that has a park bulb in it. :thumbsup:

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Right.  The speedo gets constant "keep alive" power from the red wire and switched power from the orange wire.  It needs the orange wire power to operate. (or of course to be wired to the brown if you want speed/odo in stealth mode)

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