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Lowering link on 14 and up

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Is it worth it ?

I have struggled with my 2015, but finally got it working I believe as good as its going to work, minus I haven't done a shock link yet.

I don't know that many people with Yamahas and they few I know 2 had lowering links and said it was way better but they also had suspension revalved and did it all at the same time so it could've just been there suspension.

The bike does sit high I know that, but I don't want to waste the money on one if all its going to do is lower it and not really improve handling, etc.

 

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Curious to know myself. Just picked up a 16, but with my short inseam I need to drop it a bit for sure...

 

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Well I would be getting either a Ride engineering or Devol lowering link, I believe they both say it drops it 1.25".

There not that much but also if its only going to lower it and not make it do anything better for me then I can deal with the taller bike I have been for a year lol.

 

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2 minutes ago, motomike894 said:

Well I would be getting either a Ride engineering or Devol lowering link, I believe they both say it drops it 1.25".

There not that much but also if its only going to lower it and not make it do anything better for me then I can deal with the taller bike I have been for a year lol.

 

It'll make it handle way worse. If you want it better than stock take it to a pro like Enzo or someone really good. 

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Those adjustable lowering links can be adjusted to lower bike an inch or more, but it will probably be really harsh.  I think the general consensus is a link between 143-144 mm in length is best.  It will lower the bike about 8mm or a little over a 1/4 inch.  You will probably have to slide forks up in the triple clamps 4-5 mm as well to compensate.  Also, turn high speed compression out 1 3/4 - 2 full turns out on shock, and add 3-5 clicks of rebound.

If that is not low enough, then as others have mentioned, a suspension tuner for lowering.

Edited by RAR

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I hated the stink bug stance immediately when I got my '15.  I almost did a lower link.  But, I kept reading about how they actually change the ratio and could make the shock a little harsh on initial travel.  I ended up buying the JGR adjustable subframe.  They aren't cheap, but I sold my stock one on flea bay and got some money back.  The good thing about the subframe is it allows you to just drop the seat height only with no negative effects elsewhere.  Another alternative would be to internally lower your shock.  

Edited by wforic

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First try running 110mm of sag, that makes a massive difference in the 14 and 15. I've recently put a pc link on they're 1.5mm longer than stock and worth the $, 102 - 103mm sag with link is the sweet spot, raise forks as needed

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Pc link 143.5mm. Doesn't make shock harsh, just firms it up a bit on the top of the stroke. This is on a 2016, worth every penny.

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Pc link 143.5mm. Doesn't make shock harsh, just firms it up a bit on the top of the stroke. This is on a 2016, worth every penny.

WR450 link is the same as the PC link at a fraction of the price. Think I bought around an 08 WR 450 link, but I'd have to verify the year.

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Be interested to know which year TN, just ordered a Devol pull rod (not their lowering link) and a GYTR low seat for the 250.

If those translate well enough, I'd like to do the same to the 450 as well, just pricing holding me back, by the time it gets here, it's 

over $300...

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Be interested to know which year TN, just ordered a Devol pull rod (not their lowering link) and a GYTR low seat for the 250.
If those translate well enough, I'd like to do the same to the 450 as well, just pricing holding me back, by the time it gets here, it's 
over $300...

Here is the part number I bought. Never put it in because I found out my shock was internally lowered. I did measure it up against the stock link to make sure it would fit, and it was the same length as the PC.

5XC-2217F-90-00 ROD, CONNECTING 1
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Here is the part number I bought. Never put it in because I found out my shock was internally lowered. I did measure it up against the stock link to make sure it would fit, and it was the same length as the PC.

5XC-2217F-90-00 ROD, CONNECTING 1


You don't have a pic of the two links by chance? Can't find any info that the wr one is 1.5mm longer

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You don't have a pic of the two links by chance? Can't find any info that the wr one is 1.5mm longer

 

WR on the left, stock '14 450F on the right.

5951821842c64_PhotoJan17111249AM.thumb.jpg.ef92e7018afd029a0a4d9982f848aaa2.jpg

Photo Jan 17, 11 12 54 AM.jpg

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WR on the left, stock '14 450F on the right.
5951821842c64_PhotoJan17111249AM.thumb.jpg.ef92e7018afd029a0a4d9982f848aaa2.jpg
59518397d80af_PhotoJan17111254AM.thumb.jpg.00decca0dd4747469c66e7cca473629d.jpg



Would you mind measuring the WR? I have a linkage I bought because my old WR knuckle got rusted, but I'm thinking it's a YZ. Would you know by this part #

IMG_0784.JPG

I tried to measure under my FX, but not sure if it's the same.

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Would you mind measuring the WR? I have a linkage I bought because my old WR knuckle got rusted, but I'm thinking it's a YZ. Would you know by this part #

IMG_0784.thumb.JPG.09a2f97052677d492245a95c93e05285.JPG

I tried to measure under my FX, but not sure if it's the same.

Don't have it anymore, returned it when I figured out I wasn't going to need it.

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Don't have it anymore, returned it when I figured out I wasn't going to need it.



Ok thanks, hard to believe only a few millimeters and you can lower the seat by a half inch.
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Ok thanks, hard to believe only a few millimeters and you can lower the seat by a half inch.

It does, and firms up the shock damping. It also makes the sag numbers look more realistic, 102-105mm.
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