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KTM 250XC Transmission Oil

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Hello I purchased a KTM 250XC over the winter. The previous owner ran Rotella T in the bike however I am unsure if it was T4,T5,T6 etc.... What have you guys found to be the best Rotella to run in a bike. In my old KTM 200XC-W I ran Klotz Synthetic Motor Oil and always had good luck but Klotz gets expensive over time. I am not trying to start an argument over oil and what people prefer just want to know what is the best Rotella T for the KTM. Thanks

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I hear many use ATF.  

I have been using Spectro Golden Gear lube 80W wet clutch gear oil, but that too is pricey.

I want to switch to ATF as it should be nice and cheap, but I dont know which one to buy. 

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I have a rekluse on my '13 250 xc and run T6 with my only complaint being that the bike shifts like a mack truck compared to traditional gear oil. The rotella is cheap, and i change my gear oil every 6-8 hours to keep the rekluse happy.  Subscribing to this to see what others experiences are with different gear oils. 

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I purchased Rotella T4 will see how it works. If it ends up that my bike starts to shift hard I will just switch back to the Klotz Synthetic. The only problem with Klotz is how expensive it gets after a while that was the main reasn why I was trying to switch.

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KTM specs a 15W-50, at least for my machine, and I have found that it shifts the best when I run that weight of oil.  I have been using the Mobil 1 synthetic in that weight that's sold at Walmart in a five-qt. jug.  Affordable and available. 

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I run "Toyota T-IV" (basically Dex 4) because, that what my wife's car uses but I have also run "Dextron" AND all the brands as far as "redline ", "Motul" ect. Its all that same. What year is the bike?

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I run "Toyota T-IV" (basically Dex 4) because, that what my wife's car uses but I have also run "Dextron" AND all the brands as far as "redline ", "Motul" ect. Its all that same. What year is the bike?


I'm riding a 2008 ktm 200

It's gotten a lot of use. It's only used spectro 80w until now.

I probably should do a trans re build next winter too.

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cheap rotella diesel oil.

 

t6 is syntetic and not needed for the clutch. 

rotella 15w40 diesel oil, the cheap stuff.  got 4 years and like 150+ hours out of a set of clutch plates.

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Can anyone explain why they use Rotella? I don't get it...

Motor oil shears much quicker than gear oil and doesn't have as good of an additive package..

Edited by Casing-daily

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because its a 1/4 of the price.

id rather change the oil more often then run expensive oil for a long time.

there arnt any syncros to worry about so you can run just about any oil you feel like and be just fine, 

 

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13 hours ago, Casing-daily said:

Can anyone explain why they use Rotella? I don't get it...

Motor oil shears much quicker than gear oil and doesn't have as good of an additive package..

 

I can explain why I use it... 8 harddd years on a done up crf450.  little over 400 engine hours via hour meter.  lots of mountain riding.. LOTSS of highmark coal, shale, and sand hill climbs.  3rd and 4th WFO till she cant go anymore.  lots of wide open field runs, lots of gravel road runs.  studded winter riding in deep snow, WOT all day long.  I rode it hard. she seen max RPM and the rev limiter lotssss.

 

I got 380 hours out of one OEM crank before I ruined it pressing the flywheel off like an idiot.

170 or so hours from a set of barnett clutch plates. 

200+ hours from a barnett clutch before it needed its tabs replaced

and my transmission gears and everything else in there looks perfect.

 

I changed it every 3-5 engine hours, and it costs me about $3 to change.

 

  

I now have a 12 ktm 250sx with a rekluse.  she gets the exact same oil. 15W40 Rotella T by the 5Gal/18.9L pails.   15 hours on it so far and no problems.

 

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I've heard that a lot of pro level teams in the moto scene use Rotella in their super bad ass expensive motors. If an engine builder uses it in a moto bike it can't be harmful in my book.

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14 hours ago, Casing-daily said:

Can anyone explain why they use Rotella? I don't get it...

Motor oil shears much quicker than gear oil and doesn't have as good of an additive package..

Shear strength is pretty much a function of viscosity.   Lots prefer an oil that flows easier.  I have an 1987 cr500 that I have owned since 1988.  well over 1000 hours on the transmission and all gears and forks are in very good shape.  I use ATF in it, like I have lots of others.   Not some much some of the stuff my son has put "Gear Saver"  in.  But I guess some people like seeing the numbers.   Gears wear out about as often as Haleys Comet shows up,  and bearings won't care what type of oil you have as long as it is oil.  In the end,  I think that your clutch and shifting are the big reasons to change to one from other.   If they are happy,  everything else in the cases will be too.

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Ya I guess you could put almost anything in there as long as you change it often enough. I'm guessing most people choose Rotella because of the price, although gear oil can be had for around the same price..

I asked someone who works in the industry about motor oil vs gear oil a while back and here's what he had to say,

"There are a few typical differences, though since there aren't really any "standards" for motorcycle gearbox oils, it isn't a definite that every company does it the same. However, a gearbox oil should have more powerful antiwear and extreme pressure (EP) additives that do not reduce friction than a typical engine oil would.

They will generally be more shear stable since they don't often rely on as much polymer content to meet the low and high temperature requirements as well. Gearbox oils will share some of the basic additives and properties of engine oils such as oxidation inhibitors and dispersants. Because the gearbox oil is meant for only one application, the formulation can be focused on just that one thing though. Whereas in a 4T engine oil it is often a story of compromise. We want to reduce friction, but not too much because of the clutch. We want to disperse contaminants but we need to be careful what we use so they don't interfere with the antiwear and EP additives. So the additive selection in 4T engine oils are a bit more limited and sometimes compromising a bit of performance is the only way to achieve good performance in both the engine and transmission. In a 4T engine oil meant for just engine and not shared sumps, the big difference is the little to no EP performance since an engine itself doesn't experience EP unless it is seizing. Though I see a lot of oil manufacturers ignore EP performance even in shared sump engine oils. So the biggest difference is probably the lack of extreme pressure additives in most engine oils. There are some engine oils with very good performance protecting the gear teeth with EP performance, but it isn't all that common. Most of the time, your typical bike and rider aren't going to need the absolute best performance and an engine oil is simply good enough, but there are many people I've spoken to and worked with that really do get the benefits of using the right product in each application.

 

The problem (at least from my perspective as a formulator) is that most people won't see or feel the difference between a good and bad product and normal wear rates mean people won't see the long term effects of using a lower performance product because most bikes will usually be sold or trashed long before the engine and transmission wear out."

 

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1 hour ago, Abro said:

I've heard that a lot of pro level teams in the moto scene use Rotella in their super bad ass expensive motors. If an engine builder uses it in a moto bike it can't be harmful in my book.

Prove it... :rolleyes:

I heard somewhere that Rotella has a higher zddp content which is good for flat tappets, not so sure it's the best choice for a 2t tranny tho..

Edited by Casing-daily

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