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Gear shifter issue and looking for a longer front brake line

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2017 YZ250X. So I'm having an issue with shifting with gaerne boots size 10. The shifter is level and I'm having trouble shifting up. So I raised the shifter up one notch on the shift shaft. Then after riding for a half hour, I just happened to look down and noticed the chain was rubbing on the shifter some how and I think it is was when I was shifting the shifter would contact the chain. Do I have any options here so I feel more comfortable shifting??
Also looking for a longer front brake line. Is there a year or an aftermarket company that makes a longer one? I haven't had time to call anyone yet but plan on it. And I sort of don't want to call motion pro and have a custom cable made. Thanks for any help.

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I got My front brake line off E-bay . it came for China but for $12.00 You can't beat it . It is S.S. and You can get any length ( I used 53" for a little more length ) . I put a 270 mm brake on the bike and a headlight so it needed to be longer than stock .

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I bought a take-off drz400 front brake line and I would not recommend it. The thin rubber expands when the brake is pulled and it will not lock up.

I'm going to buy a galfer line for a 2013 wr450. 

Have you tried lowering your shifter to 1 notch below level? Are your boots new or broken in? I use a beat size 12 thor ratchet and don't notice an issue shifting.

Riding position also plays a big part in shifting comfort/function

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@Chevy_97 picked up a new line because of his headlight. Maybe he will chime in on what worked for him. Would like to know myself as I have an underbar BRP Scotts mount, and the headlight. My CR style is a little short. 

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Yep I went with the 2015 Wr450f front brake line from galfer and it was the perfect length. I have the WR headlight shell, oversize front rotor, and steering stabilizer sub mount kit. The standard yz line was stretched to the limit with the normal yz style routing. Now I can route it the same way as the wr450f, and it still has the perfect amount of slack with the taller bars and larger rotor. I would definitely recommend it if you are running a similar set up. 

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I bought a take-off drz400 front brake line and I would not recommend it. The thin rubber expands when the brake is pulled and it will not lock up.

I'm going to buy a galfer line for a 2013 wr450. 

Have you tried lowering your shifter to 1 notch below level? Are your boots new or broken in? I use a beat size 12 thor ratchet and don't notice an issue shifting.

Riding position also plays a big part in shifting comfort/function

Broken in boots. Level right now the chain doesn't hit. Can you expand more on rider position please. Chevy do you have an X? Did you happen to measure the length of the stock one and compare it to the galfer? Thanks.

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3 hours ago, Hondaracer1318 said:

Yes I will try that. Do you have any pics? Thanks Chevy.

I don't have any good pictures at the moment. I store the bike at my mom's, so I can't take any right now. I'll be out to her house tomorrow or the day after and I'll take some pictures for you... I do have this one that shows how its routed behind the headlight shell though. The brake line guide you see in the pictures is part of the bracket that mounts the shell to the upper triple clamp. The YZ only uses a guide on the lower triple, but the WR has one on the upper triple clamp as well to keep the line from getting caught on the shell. This requires a longer brake line than the standard YZ line. You can order custom lines from Galfer as well if you only need a couple inches added. I didn't measure them, but if I had to guess, I would say the WR line is about 6 inches longer than the YZ. 

0326172016.jpg

BTW, if anyone is going to order the WR headlight shell, I would recommend buying 2 of the left side brackets to mount the shell to the upper triple... The mount for the right side on the WR/F is not just a small bracket, it is one big piece that is the computer mount as well as the head light bracket. Here's a link to what I'm refering to: Number 5 in the micro fiche ... Here is a link to the parts you will want to order: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-5UM-2831V-E0-00.html

If you buy 2 of the left side brackets, you can just cut off the brake line guide on the top for the right side. You'll also have to cut off the nut that is welded on because it will be on the wrong side (it will be on the outside instead of the inside). This is what I did, and it worked out great. Here's some pictures:

Left side:

0326172015a.jpg

Right side:

0326172015.jpg

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Also, after thinking about it, even if you're running a different headlight that doesn't mount to the triple clamps (rubber mounts), it might work well to buy the WR line, as well as one the the mounting brackets so you can use that upper brake line guide. This will keep the line from interfering with your head light, and you can just cut off the part that the WR shell mounts to. 

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Alright that is awesome. 6" is plenty. And I know there are a million and one threads about this but I suck at bleeding front brakes never could get it right lol. So I'm hesitant to do this since riding season has begun.

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I just went out in the shop and looked at the shifter on my X, and I see what you mean. My KTM shifter comes out from the shaft and then angles up. This will be what I would think you would need in order to get the shifter tip up so you can shift, but keep the initial part of the shifter straight so it won't hit the chain.

Something like this (the photo is of a Sunline shifter):

 

yz_shifter.jpg

Edited by dmrogers

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1 hour ago, Hondaracer1318 said:

That is exactly what I think I need. How are the sunline shifters do they stay in place and not loosen up on the shaft?

I don't know the answer to that. I snagged that photo off of the net. My boys have used other Sunline products before.

I looked at several others (like Tusk for instance) but the photos didn't give a clear view of the angle (or lack of).

But at least we know they are out there. Maybe someone else will pop in with some experience with some aftermarket shifters.

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IMG_0794.JPGIMG_0795.JPGIMG_0796.JPGIMG_0797.JPG

This is level and in this position it does not contact the chain. But if you look you will see the gouges in the last picture.

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Okay thanks

Put the shifter on where you would like it and with the bike on the stand roll the rear wheel with your right hand and upshift with your left. Get a sense for how much contact is being made. If not much then file the shifter until it just barely stopped making contact. I like my lever set high also and have done this on a couple bikes, no big deal.
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1 hour ago, Hondaracer1318 said:

Didn't think about that. Will that ruin the integrity of the shifter?

I didn't think about that option either. I bet you won't have to file off much. Kinger said he did it on a couple of bikes. 

Worth checking out.

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Didn't think about that. Will that ruin the integrity of the shifter?

It never hurt the integrity of any I did. I don't stomp on the shifter and it has a folding tip for when I crash. Never had a problem. The best is to use a 5/16 round file or so.
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