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Need new rims. what to look for/avoid? tusk brand?

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2012 ktm 250 sx, set up for woods.  rekluse, suspension, stabilizer, large tank, etc...

 

Its got a 19" rear with a brand new ding and bent spokes as of yesterday, and a front thats had a huge ding/wobble at high speeds since day 1.

 

time for new rims.  I want black ones this time, and an 18" rear.  I dont want to spend $1500 either on warp 9s or talons.

 

I ride hard, and fast, on super rocky terrain, so im fairly hard on my wheels. I weigh 240lbs with gear.  was on a crf450 for the last 7 years, and had ebay cheapo DNA rims on them for 7 years.. no spoke tightening, few bearing changes. thats it.  so im not sure if I really need top of the line rims.

 

with that being said... these tusk rims for $505 are looking pretty sweet right about now. what do you guys figure?   cheaper tusks elsewhere (RMATV is 550-600)?  way better brands available for $500-600 range?   avoid tusk?  buy them ASAP???  whats the deal here?   sledding season is over and time to get the bikes back out!!

 

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/391595818645?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Edited by cdf450
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Buddy of mine got a set. Think he got them on sale around 35-400. They look nice and great price 

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don't buy cheap wheels for the $$ savings, you will regret it later on, then have to buy a quality set in the end.   IMO the best way to do this is to find a local wheel builder and have a set of excels hoops laced up onto your stock hubs, assuming your stock hubs are still in good shape. i have now done this on my last 2 bikes and will do it on my next 2 as well. what i mean is that i carried the same hubs/wheels to 2 different bikes. when i get a new bike i swap the stock wheels for my stronger and much better built wheels.  an added plus is that a set of new set of take-offs for sure helps the resale of the old bike.. i recently just had a set of a60 hoops laced up onto my stock hubs and it was 1/2 the cost of buying a full set.  these wheels will stay on my current bike and likely be on my next ktm as well, assuming i can continue to just use compatible spacers on the new bike...  good luck.

Edited by DRS

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Had tusk wheels on a yz 250 as well as a ktm 300.  I beat the hell out of them and they always stayed true.  Just keep the spokes tightened as you should with any wheel and they will last.  There were stories of cracked hubs on some of the first ones a few years back, but it seems that is not an issue anymore.

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I bough some and they look awesome. Billet hubs heavy duty spokes that were all tight right out of the box and were true. Have had buddies who beat the crap out of theirs for years and they held up great I went thru RM and got them for like $495 and $25 cash back. Got some nice tusk rotors too for about $120 for front and back total

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Mine look just like Puddins. Black rims with orange tusk billet hubs. My rims are moose though, not tusk. They came on the bike when I bought it. I DEFINITELY love the look however I consider myself to be a beginner level rider and ride woods without many rocks. Probably much slower than you too. Therefore, I can't really speak for the strength per your riding level, but they sure do look amazing. Mud, sticks, grit, stones, etc haven't chipped nor scratched them yet although the tusk logo on the rear hub is starting to fade. 

 

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thought about doing the hoops... too much work and not worth it.  the local guy is unreliable and I dont have the time or space to do them myself.

 

tried to order 2 sets of the tusk rims the other day... got a message this morning saying theyre not available until may 5th!!!  I dont want to wait 2 months.

does anyone know if anyone has two sets of black/orange in stock, 18" rear??

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I've got a set on my CRF that I ride it strictly vet intermediate MX and I hover around the 230lb mark, so far they have been great.  Way better then the stock DID reduced status junk Honda specs.  If you want to make up the extra weight run a set of tubliss and the weight will be the same or less then stock.  I recommend the tusk wheel set.

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On March 30, 2017 at 9:16 AM, cdf450 said:

thought about doing the hoops... too much work and not worth it.  the local guy is unreliable and I dont have the time or space to do them myself.

 

tried to order 2 sets of the tusk rims the other day... got a message this morning saying theyre not available until may 5th!!!  I dont want to wait 2 months.

does anyone know if anyone has two sets of black/orange in stock, 18" rear??

If you price shop, you can lace up a set of warp 9 elite or a60 yourself for the same price as a complete tusk set minus the disk.. You can get a truing stand/micrometer etc for cheap. 

It will only take you 2-3 hours to lace up a wheel the first time. I was forced into it because of a booked up local guy and it's really not as bad/complex as it seems..

Never had the tusk hoops but their hubs seem to be ok quality, they don't machine as many little holes or clean up the edges like warp 9 does. 

If you do buy the hoops the id go with warp 9 elite because it has a stronger aluminum and less run out at the weld than the a60. The a60 weld is pretty ugly in comparison for some reason..

Edited by Casing-daily

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Tusk wheels are EXCELLENT quality for the price. You will not beat them. I know guys from pro am mx to AA off road guys and not a single complaint

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ok.  boy have I ever learned a lot about wheels since I last posted.  ill try to share as much of that info as I can.  tusk is good quality sure, but their business management and inventory/supply is a complete joke.  I made this thread in march, and was told tusk was backordered till may 5th. tough pill to swallow, but I toughed it out.   I emailed on may 7th, and by then they were gone, and wait time back to june 10th... forget it, ill buy my 3 sets and spend $2000+ elsewhere I guess.

 

tusk impacts are a very good rim.  lower end.  fairly strong, good price. BUT, theyre heavy.  thats their downside (not to mention their availablily and the fact that tusk only seems to make their required amount minus 10%... need 1000 rims? well only make 900!)   they also dont come with rotors or sprocket. hence the price.

 

warp 9... almost the exact same as tusk.  same price too in the end.  warp 9 are $200 more, BUT they include rotors and sprockets.  also, warp 9 caters to color guys... custom hubs, rims, spoke colors for the same price.   lower end rim, same as tusk really. +/- 5%

 

regarding the poster above... I dont think warp 9, even their fancy models, can compare to excels a60.   is the a60 not a top of the line rim?  like THE best.. maybe one other brand above it that I dont know if, but thats it? but pretty sure thats the top of the peak here for mx rims.  please correct me if im wrong.

 

 

 

the tusk impact rims/hoops are not available until june (good job tusk... morons) so I went with DID dirtstars for an extra $60 (did I mention im having someone build these and lace them from scratch).  kind of a weird setup TBH... BUT, tusk didnt have rims.  so I ended up putting a superrrrrr strong rim, onto a mediocre hub. not the smartest/most efficient decision, but itll work.   at a point... the only advantage the expensive rims have is the same strength, BUT theyre lighter.  most of us will never notice that 1lb between the $2000 a60s with talon hubs and the other medium grade sets for $700. most of us will never bend/damage/ruin either set either. 

 

now, heres how rims go.. or so I was taught.

 

DNA/no name rims. chinese junk

OEM excels/DIDs, special markings to show theyre OEM... pure garbage.

tusk/warp 9  very close to same quality as each other.. lower end rims. heavy, but strong. warp 9 includes the jewelery.  tusks are bare.

DID dirtstars

after market excel takasago (way different breed than OEM excel takasagos)

Faster USA

DID dirtstar STX

Excel a60

 

 

hubs go:

 

stock - lowest... still seem pretty solid. Ive never had hub problems.

tusk impact - I doubt any of us could ruin these, even though theyre "lower" end

faster USA - double bearing... extremely strong.  youre looking at $1300 wheelsets now.

talon/dubya - the best. $1700

 

 

 

now spokes... heres a huge one!!  some companies use short/normal length spokes.   the spoke does NOT thread all the way into the nipple, basically creating a hollow spot in the nipple.. major weak spot, nipples break, spokes fall out, rims get bent... downhill from there.  they also use plain steel spokes and aluminum nipples. I got high carbon steel spokes with steel nipples.  stock size diameter though.  bulldog oversize spokes are the toughest of the tough.

now. heres what I did.   no one ever has problem with hubs.  stock hubs are fine, and strong enough.  I believe the tusk hubs are even better than stock, so whats what I choose.

I got excel high carbon, extra long spokes.... hell, some of the spokes are so long, they apparently protrude through the nipple a tad, then need to get ground down!!!! not the prettiest having grinder marks on the brand new $2000 rim/wheel. but 1, youll never see it, and 2, its all about strength here!!!  

 

SO, with that being said.. ive got tusk hubs, DID dirtstar rims, and excel high carbon spokes being built... 3 sets of them for $750 USD (approx) per set!!   I feel like thatll be a superrrrr solid set that I should never have any problems with.   ill still need sprockets and rotors, or use my old ones.   either way, in the end... im very close to the tusk/warp 9 price, with 2x the quality.

 

if I wanted faster USA hubs. thats $350 more on top of my final price. Paired with a top-mid end rim like the dirt star stx or excel takasago ($1000-1100 USD)

 

talon hubs are $700 more with the excel a60 rim. (1400-1500$ USD)

 

and rims are about $100 per stage that you wanna upgrade... it gets expensive quick!!!!

 

 

Edited by cdf450
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A60 used to be the best but that's old news. 

I own a60 and warp 9 elite rims and the weld sucks on the a60 rims in comparison. I'll take a picture side by side next time I have tires off. Warp 9 elite use 7050 aluminum while the a60 uses 7000. I haven't been able to bend either but the elite is still stronger with better finish and less run out at the weld. Warp 9 grinds the weld so you have to really look for it while excel just leaves it. 

Never used talon hubs but the warp 9 looks much better than the tusk. Tusk uses a really dark reddish orange anodizing which doesn't match anything else on the bike. They both have held up longer than the oem cast did. 

I've never had DID dirt star but heard that the aftermarket versions are a  different/better rim compared to oem. Tricksters. Pretty sure the oem rims share the same name but use different material. Where are the special oem markings your talking about?

Edited by Casing-daily
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So what's so bad about leaving the weld? I am a welder by trade. And from my experiences I've always found that grinding a weld makes it weaker. Prettier sure. But it's less material in the end. The different grades of aluminum are different. I honestly don't know there.

 

Warp 9 definitely looks good. Colours are their thing. And the full package deal. Tusks colours are kinda lame on all their parts. They don't offer silver/plain hubs!!! Just orange black and white. Oh, and they're outta orange and black. So I had to settle for white hubs!!! Would have got plain silver and Coat them yourself before building the wheels. Tusk SUCKS in that area.

 

I've read on tt a long time ago that the stock excels and takasago a are a totally different type than aftermarket. Years ago. Then just last week my wheel guy confirmed it and he knew what he was talking about. He said that the stocks only have 1 marking whereas the aftermarket ones have two. That doesn't seem right because my ktm has 2 logos on each side. And are bent to shit. Maybe I'm looking at them wrong. Maybe it's in the stripe? It makes sense and I would damn near bet money that it's true. Would be interesting to hear others options/facts on it!

 

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Ok I'm bored this morning and looked more into it.... Basically, long story short, the stock excel vs aftermarket excel thing is true!!! I always knew it was... But nice to have it confirmed and explained by an excel rep..

 

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I'm wondering if DID does the same thing with the dirt star rims. 

I wouldn't want to buy takasago hoop nowadays. Ktm has soiled the name. It's too hard to tell what your getting and their oem version is complete trash..

My oem takasago has 2 logos each side with 4 total, so the only way to tell if it's the crap one would be the part number and Idk what to look for in the part number. The logos and stripe look identical to the aftermarket to me. 

 

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