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2017 300 XC clutch slipping

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I have 29.8 hours on my 2017 300 XC.  My clutch has been rock solid since new.  On my last ride the clutch started slipping under load. It was like as if I was pulling in on the clutch lever just enough to keep it engaged at low rpm but would slip when I gave some throttle.  I did switch to Golden Spectro gear oil a few changes ago.  I'm wondering if the spectro oil wasn't compatible with the motorex?

So I pull the clutch out and inspect the friction plates and steel plates. It has some signs of wear but all in all looks brand new still. I took the clutch pack to the dealership where I purchased my 300 and they gave me a new clutch kit and the rubber dampers.  Pretty cool!  They are going to inspect the worn clutch and get back to me on what they find.

But im still bothered by why my clutch started slipping at 30 hours.  All my previous KTM's clutches (were not DDS clutches) lasted for 3 times that long. 

I pulled out the inner hub there was quite a bit of play back and forth which I'm finding out means the rubber dampers are no good. 

My question to the forum - is this just how the DDS clutch is? Crappy and wears out in 30 hours? Is there a non auto clutch replacement option to upgrade too?

 

Thanks for reading

 

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The bellville spring washers are known to be an issue with the 300s. Lots of people replace it with the 280# spring from a 450 SXF. I believe Barnett offers a 300# spring as well. You could use the Z/3 position of the pressure ring if the clutch stills slips with the new plates to see if it's the washer. Rekluse offers a manual clutch. 

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5 hours ago, jugnuts said:

The bellville spring washers are known to be an issue with the 300s. Lots of people replace it with the 280# spring from a 450 SXF. I believe Barnett offers a 300# spring as well. You could use the Z/3 position of the pressure ring if the clutch stills slips with the new plates to see if it's the washer. Rekluse offers a manual clutch. 

Ok thank you for the info

ill try that and report back. I'm waiting for the rubber dampers to get here before I put this thing back together

in the meantime...new fork seals, cycra full wrap hand guards, race tech 5.0 rear spring

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Bizarre.  My original clutch is ten years old and it gets used hard every week.

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48 minutes ago, Lehiguy said:

Bizarre.  My original clutch is ten years old and it gets used hard every week.

Right!

i just heard back from the dealer/shop and they said that it was smoked. looked like a clutch from a 125 ridden by a rookie that weighs too much for the bike and was riding single track. 

I don't think it was me because I ride the SOB like all my other bikes. 

 

anyway, sounds like the dealer will warrenty it for me

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sounds like you got a bad one.  over 280 hours on my stock dds clutch (450xc-w) and I'm a registerd clutch offender... it starts to hammer the ears when the rubbers are sacked but that's it.   

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On 3/30/2017 at 4:45 PM, jugnuts said:

The bellville spring washers are known to be an issue with the 300s. Lots of people replace it with the 280# spring from a 450 SXF. I believe Barnett offers a 300# spring as well. You could use the Z/3 position of the pressure ring if the clutch stills slips with the new plates to see if it's the washer. Rekluse offers a manual clutch. 

 

I installed a new clutch kit with a new oem Belleville spring. Clutch is still slipping. I tried setting the retaining ring to the III position and it is still slipping. Went back to I position and it slips worse.  So it's better in the III position.

could there be something else wrong with the hydraulic system?  I did inst all an enduro engineering clutch slave protector before this started happening.

ill order a SX Belleville spring

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Are the steel plates part of the kit? If not they could be glazed causing the clutch to continue to slip. Might try backing the adjuster on the lever all the way out to see if it makes a difference. 

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1 hour ago, jugnuts said:

Are the steel plates part of the kit? If not they could be glazed causing the clutch to continue to slip. Might try backing the adjuster on the lever all the way out to see if it makes a difference. 

Yes the kit comes with steels, frictions, Belleville spring, and the skinny spacer that goes under the spring

I have the lever adjusted all the way out as well 

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What is bugging me is why did it last 30 hours? now all of the sudden a new Belleville spring isn't strong enough?

weird

I ordered a 280# spring for $50. Hopefully this fixes it

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The washer is called a slider ring per the Rekluse instructions. It is marked to indicate what side should be up when installed. Is the nut for the inner clutch hub tight,it should not be able to loosen with the retaining washer having the tabs positioned and bent into place. 

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So after all that it turns out that my Pirelli Scorpion was letting the rim spin inside the tire. The bead lock isn't locking up with the tire. I'm running a Michelin bib and a Pirelli Scorpion mid soft.  I have ran this combo for years and not ever had this issue. A tech at the shop is who figured it out because he had the exact same thing happen to him with the same tire/bib combo. We are both going to try a little wider bead lock.

im glad it's not my clutch!

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5 hours ago, Abro said:

So after all that it turns out that my Pirelli Scorpion was letting the rim spin inside the tire. The bead lock isn't locking up with the tire. I'm running a Michelin bib and a Pirelli Scorpion mid soft.  I have ran this combo for years and not ever had this issue. A tech at the shop is who figured it out because he had the exact same thing happen to him with the same tire/bib combo. We are both going to try a little wider bead lock.

im glad it's not my clutch!

OMG ! :facepalm::jawdrop:

 

Joe

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WOW! To slip enough to mimic a clutch problem and not be detected that Bib must be lubed with unobtainium. Glad its sorted out. 

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Hahaha, Whoops!

 

Just FYI, another thing I've seen is te locking tab  on the clutch hub interfering with the pressure plate.  Just another area to check if someone else runs across this thread.

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