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YZ250f fork rebound adjustment screw

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changed the fork seals in my 04 YZ250f.  I counted the number of clicks each of the rebound adjustment screws were set to before beginning work.  After I have everything back together and each screw set to the same number of clicks, the right side fork is higher than the left as shown in the pictures.  Anyone know a solution or cause?

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IMG_20170403_151351.jpg

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The rebound settings have nothing to do with the position of the fork tubes in the clamps. You need to loosen the upper and lower clamps and make sure the tubes are positioned the same (stick out the top the same amount).

Forgive me but it strikes me as odd that you are able to replace fork seals but think the rebound clickers caused the tubes to sit unevenly? Am I missing something here?

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Check my pictures of the height of the rebound screw itself (on the top of the "cap bolt".)  One side is a MM or 2 higher than the other side - like they are not dialed out the same amount of clicks.  But, I know that they are each set evenly.

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19 minutes ago, freebird65 said:

Check my pictures of the height of the rebound screw itself (on the top of the "cap bolt".)  One side is a MM or 2 higher than the other side - like they are not dialed out the same amount of clicks.  But, I know that they are each set evenly.

Gottcha, my bad.  Sorry, no answers for you. 

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Check to see that the damper rod on each fork is fully threaded into and bottomed out in the cap first before the lock nut is tightened. If one of them isn't it will require the rebound adjuster to be turned in further to bottom the needle for your starting point. Start with the fork that has the least rebound screw sticking out. You can do it on the bike - no need to pull forks. First get the handlebars out of the way. Then loosen the upper clamp bolts and then unscrew the caps being SURE to have the bike supported on a stand or jack. Then simply raise the front wheel and the cap / spring / damper rod will rise out of the forks allowing you access to the damper rod / locknut / cap assembly.  Clay. 

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Thanks, I'll pull the cap and see if the rod is fully seated.  I don't recall that it was screwed in - just dropped in.

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There is a rod - approx 5mm in diameter - that does drop down the center of the damper rod. Actually I guess the damper cartridge shaft would be a better description. The small rod is what allows the rebound adjuster screw to actuate the needle assembly at the lower end of the damper cartridge shaft. The larger shaft - 12 or 12.5 - can't remember which one - screws into the cap and this is the one you are concerned about. If it's not screwed all the way into the cap the rebound needle assembly is now further away from the adjuster screw but the push rod in the center of the shaft is still the same length. I hope I haven't caused more confusion. Clay. 

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You are suppose to top out the rebound and compression clickers before taking the forks apart.

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yes, I think that is my issue.  After watching a few more rebuild videos I realized they should have been all the way out instead of all the way.  I think I will pull cap and try again.  Thanks for the input.

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Pulled the fork cap and the adjustment screw was normal when dialing out to my specified number.  Reinstalled and the "higher" one was the same.  Thanks for the help.

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