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Stator demon got me

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So it would appear that the I have too fallen victim to the stator demon.  I was out and thankfully not too far from my place ( I pushed the bike back, ugh.) When all of a sudden the bike sputters and quits. I try to restart and my starter button won't even make the starter motor think of moving. Nothing.  I push it home and check the voltage to my battery, which is only 6 months old.  The voltage is a whopping 0.6.  I know that the free power mod was done because when I went to do it it was already there. I even double checked wiring and the previous owner did a good job.  He said he did the locktite fixes but I have yet to confirm and I know I'll sure find out when I go to replace the stator.  I was able to borrow a battery from another bike and confirm that the bike would start and run with proper voltage on a fresh battery.  My issue is that my availability to a fresh battery is no longer and I know that the stator tests tend to require a well charged battery. I'm guessing that I can test the ground faults with mine but wanted to ask the experts if there was anything else to check as well.  Fuses are good, terminal connections and wring is solid as best as I can see so to me all signs point to the stator not charging.  The usual info is as follows:  2001 S model, standard bore, unknown mileage minus the 2k that I've put on it after I added the trail tech.  And for whats it worth its yellow not the faster colors... haha

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No doubt you have a problem but the battery is not 0.6 volts (well could be, see below).  A DRZ running just on battery power will quit and die around 5 volts.  Hard to get any battery down to under 1 volt unless it looses internal cell connection.

Yes you can do the stator short to ground without a battery or even running the motor.  BUT really the first thing is to check battery voltage.  Battery charged and connected

Key off  -

Key on not running   -

Running  -

My wild guess is your motorcycle was running from the stator power and your battery is bad.  It is possible for a battery to loose internal cell connection and suddenly be very close to zero voltage.  Sometimes test 12 volts no load and near zero with even a slight load.  Do some more battery testing.

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15 hours ago, Noble said:

No doubt you have a problem but the battery is not 0.6 volts (well could be, see below).  A DRZ running just on battery power will quit and die around 5 volts.  Hard to get any battery down to under 1 volt unless it looses internal cell connection.

Yes you can do the stator short to ground without a battery or even running the motor.  BUT really the first thing is to check battery voltage.  Battery charged and connected

Key off  -

Key on not running   -

Running  -

My wild guess is your motorcycle was running from the stator power and your battery is bad.  It is possible for a battery to loose internal cell connection and suddenly be very close to zero voltage.  Sometimes test 12 volts no load and near zero with even a slight load.  Do some more battery testing.

 

14 hours ago, jjktmrider said:

I'd agree ,the only battery I've seen that barely showed a volt was one that was dead shorted internally and the charger would just peg out like you connected the black and red leads together .

 

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First off, thank you for the responses: 

I pulled the battery and put it on a battery tender over night and this morning still had no charge so I'm guessing the battery is shot. Bad luck there.  

I also tested the stator short to ground and surprise surprise it does short to ground in all three of the connectors on the plug. 

While I was in there and had the seat and plastics off I triple checked the wires, fuse, and the wiring on the free power mod and all looks solid with no discoloring or loose connections. 

I guess my next step is a new stator and battery.  

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All 3 yellow stator wires are connected internally with low resistance.  So if any if the stator coils short to ground, test will show a short on all 3 wires.  Not uncommon. However the stator will still put out voltage. Assuming only 1 of the 3 phases is shorted, you will get about 11 to 12 volts depending on system load.  Often it will keep a battery minimally charged if the headlight is disconnected.

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27 minutes ago, Noble said:

All 3 yellow stator wires are connected internally with low resistance.  So if any if the stator coils short to ground, test will show a short on all 3 wires.  Not uncommon. However the stator will still put out voltage. Assuming only 1 of the 3 phases is shorted, you will get about 11 to 12 volts depending on system load.  Often it will keep a battery minimally charged if the headlight is disconnected.

Thank you for the response. That very well could be how I was able to function till my battery bit the dust. I would always get home and plug into a battery tender so I was seemingly never relying on the bike to charge the battery. 

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Ya there really isn't a need to plug in everyday if riding daily or every few days . I have a pile of tenders but don't plug any in unless the thing has or will be sitting for maybe 2 weeks or more . Only winter do I plug in a little bit more , running heated gear so just to make sure the batteries are full.

 

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3 minutes ago, jjktmrider said:

Ya there really isn't a need to plug in everyday if riding daily or every few days . I have a pile of tenders but don't plug any in unless the thing has or will be sitting for maybe 2 weeks or more . Only winter do I plug in a little bit more , running heated gear so just to make sure the batteries are full.

 

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Sometimes its more than a few days between rides, sometimes its only a few hours. I just have a habit of parking, double checking my petcock is off and then plugging in the tender. I suppose that with the smart tenders I'm not causing any damage. I had an OEM Harley battery last almost 10 years with that practice. 

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I have you beat thus far , 2 AC Delco deep cycle batteries = 18 year old and still going . they both were for the boat and bowfishing carp at night with lights  so they lived on tenders most of the time . One is in my truck currently for the last 3 years since it's battery died as a temp till I got an actual truck batt. The other is in my tractor , that one seems to be getting weak but hard to say with the diesel and time it sits.

 

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How about a pic of the stator when it comes out. Interested in seeing if it cooked or just gave up. The drz is my first dry sump, prefer my stators dunked in oil for cooling

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Well after what felt like forever I was finally able to replace my stator. Wasn't as bad of a project as I was expecting at all.  NOT that I want to do it again anytime soon. Did have to hold my breath when I fired her up after putting it all back together. Started right up and I'm getting 13.9 to the battery. Very excited. As was requested I am going to post some pictures of the old one. If anyone has questions about the one that grounded itself out or wants a different picture of it let me know.  

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Thanks for the pics. Doesn't look too bad, maybe a little hot on one or two.

Edited by rustynut2
sp

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That's all it takes for a stator to go bad,all phases are linked.I'm surprised that after over 40,000 miles that my sm is still on the original stator but my bike never idles for very long and is always street ridden so it gets real good air flow and the oil is changed very frequently.

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