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Clake 2 no instructions

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Anybody know of any source of instruction on the Clake 2 install. Not the bar mounting but the remaining hookups. My package keeps the foot brake. Based on the searches I have done, It's a dead end through Clake. Looking for where someone may have figured it out.

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wow. I sure hope for $1500 they include a top mechanic with instructions written on golden paper.

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15 minutes ago, cdf450 said:

wow. I sure hope for $1500 they include a top mechanic with instructions written on golden paper.

app $800, but should come with instruction or at least literature pointing to website instructions. The instructions are on the site. 

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14 hours ago, 1gr8bldr said:

Anybody know of any source of instruction on the Clake 2 install. Not the bar mounting but the remaining hookups. My package keeps the foot brake. Based on the searches I have done, It's a dead end through Clake. Looking for where someone may have figured it out.

Call them?

This isn't directed specifically at you but this seems to be a common thing on here (and many other forums)... people will post numerous times about an issue or question that could easily be addressed by the seller in a 5 min or less phone call. I don't get how calling the seller isn't the first thing everyone does. 

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9 minutes ago, SenorThumpy said:

Call them?

This isn't directed specifically at you but this seems to be a common thing on here (and many other forums)... people will post numerous times about an issue or question that could easily be addressed by the seller in a 5 min or less phone call. I don't get how calling the seller isn't the first thing everyone does. 

They are in Australia. I don't think I have international calling. Waiting on return Email. To anxious to wait

Edited by 1gr8bldr

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I decided not to keep the rear brake as my unit is designed. But I read where it can still be used this way. Does anybody know what you do if you do not run the cable from the slave cylinder to the foot master cylinder? It would fit my bike better if Clake sold a cover that replaces the slave cylinder. Or do I cap it off as is?

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2 minutes ago, 1gr8bldr said:

They are in Australia. I don't think I have international calling. Waiting on return Email. To anxious to wait

did you check their website? The bottom of the clake 2 product page has 3 youtube install videos which are also at the top of the support page. 

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1 minute ago, SenorThumpy said:

did you check their website? The bottom of the clake 2 product page has 3 youtube install videos which are also at the top of the support page. 

I have already stated that I found these 

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2 minutes ago, 1gr8bldr said:

I have already stated that I found these 

whoops. Sorry, didn't see that post before! 

Post up how you like it once you get some seat time with it, cool product. 

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2 minutes ago, 1gr8bldr said:

I decided not to keep the rear brake as my unit is designed. But I read where it can still be used this way. Does anybody know what you do if you do not run the cable from the slave cylinder to the foot master cylinder? It would fit my bike better if Clake sold a cover that replaces the slave cylinder. Or do I cap it off as is?

I don't need the foot brake but thought I would keep it but the bend in my bars are conflicting with the hookup and hose [slave cylinder]....... So I can't use it, but no loss since I did not really want it

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Just now, SenorThumpy said:

whoops. Sorry, didn't see that post before! 

Post up how you like it once you get some seat time with it, cool product. 

I hope to really like it, but it is BIG on my Freeride. Having cut my bars down is really hindering the install. I assumed it would so I purchased spacers from G2 Ergro. I will get it mounted up to work, but some details that the videos don't show would be nice. This thread might help someone else in the future since I will post answers and clarifications.  Like the funny looking adapter, it goes on as a right hand adapter rather than screwing straight in like the video. This because the Freeride has a side mount hose where in the video, it has a straight connection. I thought it was a random generic extra part, but later saw where it had to go

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Hookup and bleeding was not bad. All lines going up makes the air want to rise. Initial run, not mounted as I wanted it......I really like the functionality of this unit. It was quick to set the clutch/brake actuation in relation to each other with the external thumb screw. Mine bottomed all the way was perfect. I could lock it down without staling the bike. I could also stop and hold on a steep hill and release the brake and go without stalling. But.... ergonomics to my hand is not good. . My fingers don't fit the contours.  Your hand would need be twice the size of mine for it to fit right.  And I can't get it mounted right. What you don't realize in pictures is that this thing is 12 inches long. It needs to go inward... but then the bar is increasing in size and the bend causes the levers to rise above the needed plane. Or the back of the unit hits the bar. I have twisted my bars all sorts of ways trying to get a different outcome. I even tried bar to perch adapters from Ergo2 reshaping them as a sort of adapter. I believe the clake unit could be reshaped as well as the 1/2 clamp... but not to excited about grinding on an $800 piece. If they made it smaller, with angle made into the mount, the mount having the typical cone shape of modern bars, it would be great. As is now, I will find a compromise. It would be perfect for bigfoot with 38" bars

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Well.... I started grinding on it. I have it close but going to have to "bed" it in a JB weld because even though I ground a lot on it, the fit of the clamp is far from perfect. But once I get it bedded then it will be 100% supported with no gaps. 

Edited by 1gr8bldr

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I looked at some other bars I had laying around. My  Twisted Engineering bars get bigger faster than most. But even with a standard bar, the curve comes to soon for the best fit

Edited by 1gr8bldr

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11 hours ago, 1gr8bldr said:

I looked at some other bars I had laying around. My  Twisted Engineering bars get bigger faster than most. But even with a standard bar, the curve comes to soon for the best fit

You mentioned earlier that you cut your bars down. Do you have a set of bars that aren't cut? Are your chopped bars causing the fitment issue? 

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I have a left hand rear brake... I cant get it to bleed properly.  it doesnt bite the rear brake hard enough.  plus, after 15 years of using the foot brake, I just cant stop using it.  it feels weird to leave my right foot planted where it is, and use my left hand only for rear braking.  I just cant get used to it.

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5 hours ago, SenorThumpy said:

You mentioned earlier that you cut your bars down. Do you have a set of bars that aren't cut? Are your chopped bars causing the fitment issue? 

Yes my bars are cut down, compounding the problem. The other random bars I have would work better.... but still not perfect. And once you reach the turn, even a little, the clamp/mounting does not fit well. Even on a long bar, the unit needs to move inward enough so that 3 fingers are left on the bar, two for operation..... This is into the bend on every bar  I have seen.

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3 hours ago, cdf450 said:

I have a left hand rear brake... I cant get it to bleed properly.  it doesnt bite the rear brake hard enough.  plus, after 15 years of using the foot brake, I just cant stop using it.  it feels weird to leave my right foot planted where it is, and use my left hand only for rear braking.  I just cant get used to it.

Are all you lines and fittings moving upward? It would almost bleed itself if it were. Mine bites very well. It does feel weird that foot just along for the ride. I was afraid of not getting used to it but I am forced to now since I was not able to use the slave cylinder due to the hose connection almost touching my bar mounts. The function is great. I can modulate with my hand better for more precise control. Stopping on a steeeep incline, so steep that the brakes hardly hold, I can simply brake to stop, no clutch, and simply release when I am ready to go, both feet on the ground, starting from stand still, from incline, no choking down, and no wheelie, just smooth take off. That tells me my adjustment from braking to clutch relationship is perfect. That will come in handy. LOL, I don't usually stop mid hill climb, but if the guy in front of you does then you have a harder time getting going again... not so much now. But the controls will take awhile to get used to magnified by it not fitting my hand in a natural way

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