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about to pull trigger on 17 Tx300

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SO as the title says, im going in tomorrow to look at and possibly pull the trigger on a new 300. Ive been watching a bunch of videos and reviews, and sounds like a very solid put together trail racing bike. Coming off a 2002 KX and CR 250, I feel this would be a better setup then a 350 or 450 as I have only ever ridden two strokes. I will be doing mostly woods racing harescrambles and some moto here and there with it. (and its a very good mix of terrain in the PNW) Anyone have any feedback? I see some common band aids are to open the airbox, switch carbs and stiffen the suspension up just a tad. If i can get close to race ready out of the box that would be great, as my next round is on the 30th!

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Not sure where you are purchasing, but I would suggest Tri-State Powersports. Mark has the best prices I personally found, and he was very patient with me during my indecisive moments.
I personally went with the tc250 rather than the tx300.
Here's why:
1. $2k less
2. Electric start is not that appealing to me personally
3. I can put a 300 Cylinder, Piston and Ring on the 250 if I want
4. Buying a larger tank is only $150-$200
5. I've never personally ridden an 18" rear wheel (I've heard its great in the woods) but it wasn't a buying point for me

This is what I've figured out after Riding the TC250
1. More than capable woods bike (which I am primarily using it for)
2. Very nice, tractable power delivery
3. Smooth Throttle response for Woods riding.
4. I will not be drilling holes in the air box. If I need more power on this (or if you need more power on the tx300) we should have been given the bike due to being that fast and deserving of a heavy sponsorship
5. I'm around 225 lbs, the TC250 Suspension out of the box, was almost perfect. I was so impressed with the suspension.
6. Jetting was not an issue for me. I will NOT be changing the Pilot, Main, or the Needle (unless summer weather dictates)
7. Power Valve was NOT adjusted. I don't know enough about the Power Valve to begin adjusting it yet.

I will be installing a Rekluse Core EXP 3.0, new Torc 1 foot pegs, a Pipe Guard, a Skid Plate, better hand guards, and Tubliss


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Forgot to tell you, good luck with the purchase. The TC250 is the best bike I've ever ridden. I've had Yz250's, yz450f's, kx450f's, and ridden countless other machines.

You will be happy with the TX300 if it's anything like the TC250.

THE COUNTERBALANCER is really a great step in the right direction for 2-strokes. Compared to my buddies yz250, I will never ride a yz again (untill yamaha fixes the Vibrating) its that big of a difference

I know that I might sound like I'm sales pitching the tc250, but I'm not.
Im simply saying what Husky (and probably KTM) have done with their 2-Strokes, is a great move in the right direction for 2-strokes. The Wp front fork is great. The Engine is great. All around, I am very pleased with the product...

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thanks for the honest opinion! Ive just had 250's this whole time and still will be building my CR, so if anything the bigger 300 will be my "do all" bike in the stable. I like the idea of e start for dead engine starts and the overall design of the TX/FX line(parts availability). I have a really good Kehin carb to play with if a couple air holes don't already solve tjhat problem right out of the box.

 

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I am really excited though, counter balancer, air shocks, and mappable ignition are really neat! very fancy then what I am used too, and I just rode a buddies 2016 yz250x for 15 mins and was blown away. Moving the needle in the direction of smokwer development is what its all about.. just hope honda gets back in the game soon

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I am really excited though, counter balancer, air shocks, and mappable ignition are really neat! very fancy then what I am used too, and I just rode a buddies 2016 yz250x for 15 mins and was blown away. Moving the needle in the direction of smokwer development is what its all about.. just hope honda gets back in the game soon

I would love to see Honda, Suzuki and Kawasaki back in the 2-stroke game.
I truly believe they will all be coming back soon. Depending on how the EPA reacts I suppose

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go for it!  Excellent bikes.  On youtube, look for plaeco.  Thats Colton Haakers blog.  he's on a 300 and does unreal stuff with it.   I just picked up a te250.  I'm so happy with it.  The suspension, while probably a little under sprung for me, is really really good.  I'm a 2t guy, but try a 4t every once in awhile to see if Ive changed. I keep going back to my 2t's.  This te250 is the best off-road bike I've ever ridden and its bone stock.  The jetting needs a little work, but its not horrible and also has more trail oriented ignition, but it still flys.  I feel like I can do no wrong with it....

 

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I've had a TX300 since October, just put the first top end in after 100 hrs,this is hands down the best 300 I've ever had it's fast nimble and the suspension is unbelievable. My only gripe is the Mikuni, it can be set up for a specific type of riding but it's just not as "seamless" as the Kehin. I'm using a 36mm Kehin with a Slavens modded head and Gnarley pipe it will "plonk" if that's what you need and still rip. Had first look at the crank when changing the piston and its of the same quality as the 250 SX/TC bikes. 

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Great bike, suspensions killer. Having some issues you can see in my thread about it here. Been thru a few Hare n Hounds ,Hare Scrambles.. terrain out here resmbles Europe. We avg about 4mph on our 5hr rides lol

 

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The TX300 is the best bike I've ever ridden. My take after about 3 weeks of ownership, 7 hours logged and one enduro race:

 

-The airbox doesn't need to be opened.

-Check your reeds when you get the bike. If they're gappy, buy a set of VForce4 reeds. If your reed cage is warped, you'll never get your jetting right.

-You don't need to buy a new carb; the Mikuni isn't bad and people are throwing a fit over nothing, really.. Get the JD Jetting kit and use his recommended jetting as a base line. I find the recommended settings in the book to be too rich. Check your float level; most people are finding them to be set too high. Route the fuel overflow line per JD's recommendation on his website to keep from dumping fuel overboard and thus increase your mileage significantly.

- The suspension is great but takes a little time to break in. In my opinion, the recommended pressure in the manual (139 PSI) is way too high, unless you're hitting the MX track or you weigh 260 pounds. Some useful info: you lose 2 PSI when you hook up your pump and the pressure in the forks increase by 2-3 PSI once they reach operating temp. I weigh 210 without gear and ride desert mostly. I have found 128 PSI for the desert (for an operating pressure of 130) and 118 (for an operating pressure of 120) in the woods is great. A few PSI makes a huge difference in how the forks feel. Always check your pressure before you ride AT THE SPOT YOU'RE GOING TO RIDE AT. Case in point; I set my pressure for 128 PSI in my garage prior to a race. Showed up to the race and checked it again; it was at 118 PSI. No, my forks weren't leaking. The temperature change was the difference. It was 65 degrees in my garage and 30 degrees at the race. 

- If you're a tall guy, the bars will be too low for you.

Edited by CSAR FE
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21 hours ago, CSAR FE said:

The TX300 is the best bike I've ever ridden. My take after about 3 weeks of ownership, 7 hours logged and one enduro race:

 

-The airbox doesn't need to be opened.

-Check your reeds when you get the bike. If they're gappy, buy a set of VForce4 reeds. If your reed cage is warped, you'll never get your jetting right.

-You don't need to buy a new carb; the Mikuni isn't bad and people are throwing a fit over nothing, really.. Get the JD Jetting kit and use his recommended jetting as a base line. I find the recommended settings in the book to be too rich. Check your float level; most people are finding them to be set too high. Route the fuel overflow line per JD's recommendation on his website to keep from dumping fuel overboard and thus increase your mileage significantly.

- The suspension is great but takes a little time to break in. In my opinion, the recommended pressure in the manual (139 PSI) is way too high, unless you're hitting the MX track or you weigh 260 pounds. Some useful info: you lose 2 PSI when you hook up your pump and the pressure in the forks increase by 2-3 PSI once they reach operating temp. I weigh 210 without gear and ride desert mostly. I have found 128 PSI for the desert (for an operating pressure of 130) and 118 (for an operating pressure of 120) in the woods is great. A few PSI makes  huge difference in how the forks feel.

- If you're a tall guy, the bars will be too low for you.

Great write up, just got mine Saturday and already working out the bugs.  I did cut my airbox, but even if not needed it won't hurt anything.  The jetting was crazy rich, but moving the clip up one position made a huge difference.  Need to check out the reed cage.  Thanks for the info.

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On 4/10/2017 at 0:48 PM, 95jersey said:

Great write up, just got mine Saturday and already working out the bugs.  I did cut my airbox, but even if not needed it won't hurt anything.  The jetting was crazy rich, but moving the clip up one position made a huge difference.  Need to check out the reed cage.  Thanks for the info.

picked mine up today! walked in saw it and was just like take my money haha... had them swing in the dampener, cycra guards and skid , a moose metal pipe guard and some rad guards. I will be on the lookout for a link guard next if anyone has some direction! Im really impressed with the overall finish of the bike right off the floor. My shop has good techs and everyone is excited about these new bikes. I did notice going up the street it seemed a tad rich off bottom so I might raise the clip after tomorrows maiden voyage! They reccomended 60 to 1 on my oil ratio, is that correct? I usually run 40:1 klots in 100LL av fuel and my kawi runs great! was gonna put an hour or so on it to break in and then think about draining the tank for some fresh ethonol free atleast

 

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7 hours ago, Ronaldo156 said:

picked mine up today! walked in saw it and was just like take my money haha... had them swing in the dampener , cycra guards and skid , a moose metal pipe guard and some rad guards. I will be on the lookout for a link guard next if anyone has some direction! Im really impressed with the overall finish of the bike right off the floor. My shop has good techs and everyone is excited about these new bikes. I did notice going up the street it seemed a tad rich off bottom so I might raise the clip after tomorrows maiden voyage! They reccomended 60 to 1 on my oil ratio, is that correct? I usually run 40:1 klots in 100LL av fuel and my kawi runs great! was gonna put an hour or so on it to break in and then think about draining the tank for some fresh ethonol free atleast

 

The manual specifies 60:1. I personally run Amsoil Dominator at 50:1 as that is the mixture that oil was designed to run at. I would suggest following the specifications on the bottle of the oil you plan to run for mixture ratio and jet from there. You will get 3000000 different opinions on premix ratio, what oil to use, ect.

I also would recommend getting a set of KTM frame guards as they are longer than the stock husky ones and will keep you from rubbing the paint off your frame. Be sure you torque your spokes after every ride for the first 4 or 5 rides. Every single one of mine were loose from the factory and they take a few rides to settle in. 

Another tip: I put a little dab of grease on each one of the pins on the side panels to help then snap in and out easier. My buddy actually broke his side panel trying to get his off. 

Edited by CSAR FE
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7 hours ago, Ronaldo156 said:

picked mine up today! walked in saw it and was just like take my money haha... had them swing in the dampener , cycra guards and skid , a moose metal pipe guard and some rad guards. I will be on the lookout for a link guard next if anyone has some direction! Im really impressed with the overall finish of the bike right off the floor. My shop has good techs and everyone is excited about these new bikes. I did notice going up the street it seemed a tad rich off bottom so I might raise the clip after tomorrows maiden voyage! They reccomended 60 to 1 on my oil ratio, is that correct? I usually run 40:1 klots in 100LL av fuel and my kawi runs great! was gonna put an hour or so on it to break in and then think about draining the tank for some fresh ethonol free atleast

 

change the clip up made a big difference on mine, runs pretty good now.  yeah I also read in manual 60:1.

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12 minutes ago, CSAR FE said:

The manual specifies 60:1. I personally run Amsoil Dominator at 50:1 as that is the mixture that oil was designed to run at. I would suggest following the specifications on the bottle of the oil you plan to run for mixture ratio and jet from there. You will get 3000000 different opinions on premix ratio, what oil to use, ect.

I also would recommend getting a set of KTM frame guards as they are longer than the stock husky ones and will keep you from rubbing the paint off your frame. Be sure you torque your spokes after every ride for the first 4 or 5 rides. Every single one of mine were loose from the factory and they take a few rides to settle in. 

Another tip: I put a little dab of grease on each one of the pins on the side panels to help then snap in and out easier. My buddy actually broke his side panel trying to get his off. 

What a PITA getting those panels off, good advice on the grease!!

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What a PITA getting those panels off, good advice on the grease!!

how about getting them back on? I will definitly be playing around with some ideas and talking to a buddy with a 3d printer.. ease of access to air filter is nice tho, and yea I will hold off on cutting my airbox until down the road. will greese the pins and check overall torque tonight, I put about 45 mins on just some backyeard singletrack... first thoughts are wow this is amazing and the koolaid tastes great! it will be hard to get my 02 honda up to comparison

 

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