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Drz 400 sm 05 Front fork damage help

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Hello, Ive bought myself a Drz400 SM 2005 

Ive noticed it has some damage on the "front forks" I couldt get a picture cuz im at work now. but it looks like this  Picture ive attached, but NOT THAT BAD, I just have 3 cuts on ut that shows. the exact same material as in the picture, is that carbon fiber? 

My question is , what is that item called and where can i get a new one, the damage is only on the gold "fork" , i got 3 marks on it. so not that bad. but my question is , is it bad, can i just leave it be ? or do i need to get myself some other forks... :/?

 

 because its only my left one that has 3 marks on it. Kinda looks like carbon fiber under, im not sure, maybe its just a protector on the outside and steel inside ? i dont know, and i dont want to peel of even more and poke a hole to find out.. hmm 

egegegege.PNG

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As an aircraft mechanic we see it on dissimilar metals mostly. But it also happens due to salt corrosion. 

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Ok, thanks for many replies, Is it anyway to make it stop for now? so it doesnt get worse where it have chipped.. ? 

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Agree with the above cleaning process. This is a copy and paste statement, I aint that bright

 

 

Alodine

Alodine is a chemical treatment of aluminum to prevent corrosion, it is electrically conductive and can be used as a primer for layers of paint. It does not add weight or changes dimensions of the part that is being treated, where as paint does. It is easy to apply and needs no electricity (anodizing does) to treat the parts.

Parts may not be assembled (like with anodizing) and you will need a tank that can hold the biggest part in your kit to properly alodine. Keep temperatures above 21°C (70°F) for good results. Disposal of left over chemicals may be difficult.

Preparation

Before alodining the parts will need to be cleaned with acetone to remove all ink and or glue or sticky stuff. Then use Scotch Brite to remove the oxide layer and use a good dishwash detergent (dawn) to clean any remaining grease of the parts. If this has been done properly water will form an unbroken film, if it does not, it must be cleaned again to remove the grease.

Then dry and immerse the parts in acid for three minutes, acid rinse and dip in the alodine tank for another three minutes. Then rinse and let the alodined parts settle for at least 24 hours for maximum strength.

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I'd like to see a photo of the actual damage. In the reference photo the area noted by some as corrosion appears to be abrasion from the HDMW fender or cable stay. This abrasion could be limited to the clear coat on the aluminum fork slider. The abraded area seems to have a purple tint to it, and that same color/material can be seen on the ground below the fork. I can't tell if this is an artifact of the photo, a result of fluorescent lighting or material from one of the abraded surfaces. An actual, clear, photo of the damage will go a long way.

 

To the OP, don't worry about poking a hole in the fork slider, if you can do that it's not usable anyway. Go a head and really move things around to understand what it is you are looking at.

Edited by Gary in NJ
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Alodine is not so easy to get a hold of it seems, and i dont need much..  @Gary in NJ  I will try to take a photo of the actual damage tomorrow, thanks!

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Yes, that is intergranular corrosion for sure. If you can't get hold of alodine, after you've cleaned the area up spray with LPS3 or a corrosion inhibiting spray. Don't use steel wool or any steel products to clean the area as this can make the corrosion worse.

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So i was searching the internet and looking for more answers.  i found this    Epoxy adhesive metal set A1  From Loctite.

Product Details

Metal Set A1

Aluminium filled two-part (1:1 mix ratio) epoxy adhesive for repairing and rebuilding aluminium parts

Filled Epoxies

Versatile durable two-part epoxy compounds for maintenance and repair of a broad range of equipment. Cured repairs can be drilled, tapped, machined or painted which has long-life protection against abrasion, corrosion and chemicals.

 

This should be good to use after ive cleaned with acetone.. ?

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Start looking for a new set of forks, those are turning back to powder.

I see rust on the frame and the radiator doesn't look so great, best treat the bike to a corrosion inhibitor.

Edited by rustynut2
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Its some rust on the frame yeah @rustynut2 Im planning on stripping the bike down, to sandblast the frame, and re paint it.. but season is about to start so i dont know if i will have the time..  this beauty needs some attention, but she runs quite good, with a fcr carb

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The price for new stanchions is over $400 a piece. I would search eBay. All you need is a set of "47mm Showa Twin Camber" forks. They were common on Honda and Suzuki in the late 90's to mid 2000's. Since the DRZ forks are lowered internally and have the oversized brake carrier, I'd rebuild the DRZ's forks with the new outer tubes.

 

You should be able to pick up a good set for 300 or less

 

 

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I live in norway so probaly have to pay 25% at the customs aswell.. but could you please give me a link? 300$ is not that bad!! @ohiodrz400sm

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also seen 2014 sm forks for around 400$ will they fit my 2005? 

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