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Steering stem head bearings

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Hey all,

So I'm another victim of the lack of lube on the steer stem bearings and it also turns out the seals were leaking and there was a pool of water inside the steering stem

Question is... There is rust all over the steering stem, would it be good enough to clean the rust off or does it need replacing? Just surface rust.. Opinions?

 

Any advice for getting bearing races out? And removing the Lower bearing from the stem? They seem to be in there very well... Lower bearing if seize and full of rust, upper bearing sized dry and in pieces. 20170411_142554.jpg

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The races can be removed with a long punch or the appropriate bearing puller and slide hammer rig.

 

The lower bearing can be removed by carefully cutting the inner race with a die grinder or dremel with a cut off wheel and then sliding off the steering stem.Do not cut into the stem whatever you do or you will be buying a new stem.

 

Rust can be removed from the stem without any ill effects.

 

 

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Pro Motion sells some tools that make the process simple. If you use the punch method, use caution to knock the race out evenly so it doesn't become cocked. Use the old inner race as a driver to tap the new races into the head. Again, go slowly and keep it even.

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Just jack off your stem with steel wool or the back of a scrubby sponge with wd40 as lube.
Now reinstall everything rubber covered with grease. Bearings packed with grease after soaked in motor oil. Finger paste motor oil on the stem.
Doesnt matter how you get them off, the stems pretty tough. I have a press for stem pressing so i just pop it off. But the stems hard steel

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12 minutes ago, notoriousE-R-I-C said:

Just jack off your stem with steel wool or the back of a scrubby sponge with wd40 as lube.

Sounds painful to me.

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the stem seals may leak if dry, you have to be careful with spraying water around any bearings/seals .. and the steering lock, probably a good idea to force alittle grease in around the lock mechanism ..

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Thanks for all the advice! I bought the bike 8 months ago and am pretty mechanically inclined, just wanted to see how others have done it.
The seals and everything has definitely dry and races damaged. Going to do this properly so it's only a once a year maintenance instead of replace parts again.
Going to go at it this weekend, will let you know how it goes.

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If steel wool "self pleasuring" doesn't clean it up enough, after you get the bearings off.  You might you might want to try "Electrolytic Rust Removal".  It is a good way to prevent future rust; removes FeO2 (orange) and leaved FeO3 (black primer base).  It is a simple process, all it takes is a bucket of water a battery charger and a chunk of iron for a sacrificial anode.  It works surprisingly fast, like less than hour. 

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Around the 4min mark they remove the lower bearing; seems do-able... or I will go at it with a cut off wheel on die grinder.

 

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29 minutes ago, d.co said:

Around the 4min mark they remove the lower bearing; seems do-able... or I will go at it with a cut off wheel on die grinder.

 

Don't cut at 90 deg. Thin out the inner race until you can crack it with a chisel and a bfh.

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i don't unfortunately. I have a small vice, that isn't mounted to a bench...  Since I bought my new place the garage isn't set up and don't have a bench yet.. working without a bench right now... well my table saw is my bench currently haha.

I have an assortment of bearing pullers, slide hammer, 2 jaw, 3 jaw pullers.. they're all for my blazer though and don't believe they will work.

  I found another idea online to use the 2 jaws from a puller to grab to lip on each side of the race and then either use something to hit it from the top or try to use a slide hammer to pull it out.

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11 minutes ago, Rhinoracer said:

Don't cut at 90 deg. Thin out the inner race until you can crack it with a chisel and a bfh.

Cut on like a 45deg? Thats what I figured, just notch a bit out with a cut off wheel and i have some cold chisels to crack it. Thanks for the tip!

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It's ok to cut diagonally along the inner race if there isn't enough clearance.It doesn't have to be cut all the way through,just enough to weaken it enough to strike it with a cold chisel to split it and then it will slide off the stem.Save the old inner race to use as a installation tool to press the new bearing into place.

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14 hours ago, notoriousE-R-I-C said:

Just jack off your stem with steel wool or the back of a scrubby sponge with wd40 as lube.
 

Take off your slacks and jacket! :busted:

PB Blaster cuts rust really well.

:thumbsup:

 

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As much as I ride and own Yamahas, I regresse and replace lower bearings seasonal. With that said I just invested in a Lower Steering bearing puller by Park Tool. Gets the bearing off the stem in about 10 seconds from start to finish.
Also have a steering bearing race installer and Remover by Park Tool.

Bearings are no problem for me anymore. You can get all three Tools by Park for less than $300.00. Well worth it and saves lots of time and headaches.

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Just jack off your stem with steel wool or the back of a scrubby sponge with wd40 as lube.
Now reinstall everything rubber covered with grease. Bearings packed with grease after soaked in motor oil. Finger paste motor oil on the stem.
Doesnt matter how you get them off, the stems pretty tough. I have a press for stem pressing so i just pop it off. But the stems hard steel


Yeah .. best to wear safety goggles , jacking off causes fluid to go everywhere.
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