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2013 350SXF FI Woes....

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Here's the rundown,

Bike cranks over and starts with starting fluid only. The fuel pump works. The fuel pump relay is clicking the way it should. The battery is fully charged. The fuel filter is clean. I cleaned the injector. The coolant temp sensor and ambient air temp sensor seem to test good. While cranking over the FI light comes on for a second and then goes off. No blinking etc.. I just did a new top end and intake valves which it did not need. New spark plug and definitely getting spark. Plug is not wet so it is not getting fuel.  Should I pull the injector from the TB and see if it sprays while crnking the engine?  I am running out of options. Thoughts?

"Fuel injection is great until it stops working, then it is man's worst nightmare!"

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sounds dumb, but outsmarted me on a few occasions, make sure gas tank fitting is clicked all the way in,it can seem connected but not always is,,,,,check efi  connection too

Edited by Dirkarider
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Update.  Fuel pressure getting to injector but injector not opening. I checked voltage at connection and its a solid 11.5 v while cranking. This should open it.  I test the injector straight to battery and it opens and is clear. Blowing carb cleaner through while hooked to battery. So what the heck am i misding here?  

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I am having the same trouble and I have another bike to swap parts from and I am down to the stator being the only thing I have not changed. In my service manual in the wiring diagram it says there is a crank sensor that is located in the case with the stator and you can't buy it separate. I can't find out how to test that part of the stator and I really don't want to drop $200 if that isn't the problem. I do know if the ecu doesn't know it's turning over it won't give it fuel.

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11 hours ago, dmarrs1 said:

I am having the same trouble and I have another bike to swap parts from and I am down to the stator being the only thing I have not changed. In my service manual in the wiring diagram it says there is a crank sensor that is located in the case with the stator and you can't buy it separate. I can't find out how to test that part of the stator and I really don't want to drop $200 if that isn't the problem. I do know if the ecu doesn't know it's turning over it won't give it fuel.

Are you also getting the EFI light coming on for about a couple seconds then just turning off completely while cranking?  As far as I can tell it is the 2 yellow wires coming from the stator that should act as the crankshaft sensor.  I am thinking I can test this by hooking my volt/ohm meter and looking for a variation in resistance.  The question is what is the resistance supposed to be and look like on a good unit?  I will try this tonight and report back.  At this point that and the ECM are the only 2 things left for me to change.  I really don't feel like it's the ECM.  All other sensors register on the EFI light when I unplug them. 

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12 hours ago, dmarrs1 said:

I am having the same trouble and I have another bike to swap parts from and I am down to the stator being the only thing I have not changed. In my service manual in the wiring diagram it says there is a crank sensor that is located in the case with the stator and you can't buy it separate. I can't find out how to test that part of the stator and I really don't want to drop $200 if that isn't the problem. I do know if the ecu doesn't know it's turning over it won't give it fuel.

Question, are you getting spark?  Some say you wont get spark if CPS fails.  Not sure on that, but I have a healthy spark.

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I have good spark, there is 2 more wires that come from the stator up to the end and those 2 are the crank sensor not the yellow ones. Those yellow ones are the ones you would test resistance on to test the stator.

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2 minutes ago, dmarrs1 said:

I have good spark, there is 2 more wires that come from the stator up to the end and those 2 are the crank sensor not the yellow ones. Those yellow ones are the ones you would test resistance on to test the stator.

Interwebs say about 100 ohms across those wires.  Does that sound right to you?

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On 4/12/2017 at 7:45 PM, strokemetwice said:

Update.  Fuel pressure getting to injector but injector not opening. I checked voltage at connection and its a solid 11.5 v while cranking. This should open it.  I test the injector straight to battery and it opens and is clear. Blowing carb cleaner through while hooked to battery. So what the heck am i misding here?  

Not familiar with my KTM fuel injection, and hope to not do so; but on most cars fuel injection system, with the key switched on and the engine not running, both wires to the injector will have 12 volts.  This is because the engineers don't won't the injector opening until the engine is cranking over.  As soon as the E.C.U. sees the engine cranking over by way of the crank position sensor, one of the wires at the injector will convert to a pulsing ground so the injector will open and close.

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8 hours ago, WALKINGWOUNDED said:

Not familiar with my KTM fuel injection, and hope to not do so; but on most cars fuel injection system, with the key switched on and the engine not running, both wires to the injector will have 12 volts.  This is because the engineers don't won't the injector opening until the engine is cranking over.  As soon as the E.C.U. sees the engine cranking over by way of the crank position sensor, one of the wires at the injector will convert to a pulsing ground so the injector will open and close.

On these bikes one side has voltage and one side has a ground signal from the ecm.  Im not getting the signal/pulses from ecm on the ground.  The stator tests good, however there is no way to be sure the crankshaft pos sensor is good in the stator.  What a pita this is.  I wish KTM would have just done a regular cps.  I am hoping to get my hands on a friends ecm this week and isolate the issue.  I will report back when I find out more. 

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So we checked my spark plug for spark and any cracks and food everything seemed to look good. We then put the same plug in another bike that was running fine and it wouldn't hardly start and when it did it ran rough and as soon as you touched the throttle it killed it. We also noticed that when it was running it had the FI blinking. So apparently when the plug was under a load it was junk. Moral of the story is always check the simple stuff first...

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3 hours ago, dmarrs1 said:

So we checked my spark plug for spark and any cracks and food everything seemed to look good. We then put the same plug in another bike that was running fine and it wouldn't hardly start and when it did it ran rough and as soon as you touched the throttle it killed it. We also noticed that when it was running it had the FI blinking. So apparently when the plug was under a load it was junk. Moral of the story is always check the simple stuff first...emoji35.pngemoji379.png

Wish mine was that simple.  All I am missing is the injector not firing.  I have all the rest.  So weird.  If I had no spark or weak spark, no fuel pump, etc along with that then it would all make more sense. 

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2 hours ago, strokemetwice said:

Wish mine was that simple.  All I am missing is the injector not firing.  I have all the rest.  So weird.  If I had no spark or weak spark, no fuel pump, etc along with that then it would all make more sense. 

Is your bike code capable by blinking a fault code?

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On 4/18/2017 at 5:58 PM, WALKINGWOUNDED said:

Is your bike code capable by blinking a fault code?

Yes the fi light is the indicator however it comes on for just a second snd shuts off while cranking over. I can make the injector open and pump fuel if I manually ground it. The bike will run if i do this but floods quickly. Ecm should be here Saturday. If that doesn't work thdn i will buy a stator i guess. 

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8 minutes ago, strokemetwice said:

Yes the fi light is the indicator however it comes on for just a second snd shuts off while cranking over. I can make the injector open and pump fuel if I manually ground it. The bike will run if i do this but floods quickly. Ecm should be here Saturday. If that doesn't work thdn i will buy a stator i guess. 

I'm thinking the e.c.u. doesn't see the crank movement because of the stator/cps, or the e.c.u. does see it, but is not responding.

Fuel injection is efficient, more power, better throttle response, but when it goes down, cleaning the pilot and main doesn't do you much good lol.

 

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1 hour ago, WALKINGWOUNDED said:

I'm thinking the e.c.u. doesn't see the crank movement because of the stator/cps, or the e.c.u. does see it, but is not responding.

Fuel injection is efficient, more power, better throttle response , but when it goes down, cleaning the pilot and main doesn't do you much good lol.

 

Haha. So true. Yep thats my conclusion at yhis point. Just theow money at it i guess. 

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