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2007 DRZ400SM Electrical Issues

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Few days ago, was riding home when my bike cut out on me during a red light. Eventually got towed home after trying to jump start it with my backup battery pack couldn't keep it alive. Bike would fire up and idle. However, a minute later the dash and headlight cut out, then the engine dies.

Checked the battery voltage when I got home: 3.4v. Now that's a dead battery if I've ever seen one.

Fast forward to today. Got my Yuasa battery, charged it right up on a tender.

Engine off, Key off: 13v
Engine Off, Key On, Lights on: 12.6v
Engine running w/ choke: 12.6v
Engine running w/o choke: 12.6v

So from here, it must be RR or stator, right?

Pulled the plug from the stator.

Y1/Y2,Y1/Y3,Y2/Y3 all gave me back readings ~0.01-0.05

Pulled the RR, and did diode test on each of the yellows across to the red and black.

Y1>R: 550
Y2>R: 520
Y3>R: 580

R>Y1: 800
R>Y2: 740
R>R3: 800

Y1>BLK: 760
Y2>BLK: 725
Y3>BLK: 760

BLK>Y1: 540
BLK>Y2: 540
BLK>R3: 590

By these values, stator should be fine, but RR is dead?

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Are you following the FAQ procedure for electrical testing?

I doubt your RR is bad.  I need to know more about how you were testing it. I agree the numbers do not look good but I have a hard time believing them.

Resistance readings in hundredths of an ohm are hardly possible.  If you reported 0.1 to 0.5 I might believe it.  Most test meters will read closer to an ohm, like 1.0 ohm. Mostly you are looking for opens or high resistance with this test. 

The more important test is yellow to ground which you did not report.  You want to see open circuit, infinity, over limit (OL) or something like that depending on what you meter reads for an open circuit.

Do some more testing. I vote for the stator, the usual failure.

 

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36 minutes ago, Noble said:

 

The more important test is yellow to ground which you did not report.  You want to see open circuit, infinity, over limit (OL) or something like that depending on what you meter reads for an open circuit.

 

Just to be clear, I would touch the positive lead on the multi-meter to each yellow wire, while holding the negative lead to the battery ground (negative terminal)?

 

 

37 minutes ago, Noble said:

Resistance readings in hundredths of an ohm are hardly possible.  If you reported 0.1 to 0.5 I might believe it.  Most test meters will read closer to an ohm, like 1.0 ohm. Mostly you are looking for opens or high resistance with this test. 

 

I might've mis-remembered that reading, as it was the only one I didn't write down.

As far as testing goes, I tested the voltage setting with my multi-meter as shown, and did the rest of the tests with the diode setting as shown.

 

DiodeSetting.jpg

VoltageSetting.jpg

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Also, between the two ricky stators listed in the thumpertalk store, what's the difference between them? Is there any reason not to buy the cheaper one?

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Your meter has diode test and continuity buzzer on the same switch position.  That does not make sense to me.  Continuity is a low resistance ohm test.  Diode test is actually a voltage test on most meters.  I would have to read your meter instruction book to understand.  Regardless the RR needs to be fully disconnected from the motorcycle.  Red lead to DC POS black lead to the  AC inputs, then reverse the leads.  Then red lead to DC NEG black lead to AC imputs, then reverse the leads. Diodes of course are polarity sensitive so they conduct 1 way (with a small voltage drop) and block the other.  Assuming your results are ohms it means all the diodes conduct in both directions which seems unlikely.

3 hours ago, LuckyLucky said:

Just to be clear, I would touch the positive lead on the multi-meter to each yellow wire, while holding the negative lead to the battery ground (negative terminal)?

Now I'm confused.  Are you saying you did test yellow stator wires to ground using the continuity setting?  And got no continuity?  Repeat this test with the meter set to 200ohm. Yellow stator wires not the yellow RR wires.

I have not looked at the Ricky Stator web site for a while.  In the past they have sold an aftermarket replacement and a replacement manufactured by the same company that makes the stator for Suzuki.  I can't tell you if 1 is better then the other.  I'm using the cheaper one.

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