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Best $220 I ever spent.. Sort of.. 1989 XR600R

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  I was poking around craigslist and came upon an add for an XR600R .. Call for pictures $235. So  I call and get a couple pics and it's ugly... But in my mind it is still cooler than most of the new bikes. So 45 minutes and $220 for the bike... $7.50 for a strap.... $6 in toll road tolls... And here we go. It came with a bill of sale and the original California Title... Kinda Cool. 

So .. It's seized. It has water in the oil tank. It has no oil in the motor. It has 3 minor cracks in the rear seat support. Structural part of the frame is good except for rust in the oil tank. It's still cool. Best POS I ever threw money at.

  Does anyone have suggestions on how to release the nice tensioned timing chain? I would rather not cut it, but everything moves but the piston. I need the head off to get to that jug.

  Also, any systems for cleaning that oil tank?

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Well... I figured out the timing chain. If you hold the tensioner back you can wiggle the bearing off of the shaft on the cam side and walk the chain off. Turns out... It had water on top of the piston but it looks like (after I trashed the piston. Getting it out) the cylinder may be salvageable. It looks like you know what but I can't catch a ridge with my finger nail. It's all scale.

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Looks like you got a great deal, upon first observation, until  I saw engine pics. I dont think you got burnt because a lot of parts can be sold off/parted out for what you got into it. Reason I say this, is, when looking at pic of clutch side, I see a water/rust mark, as if water was sitting in crank area. Meaning, a bunch of bearings are probably ruined, like tranny and crank bearings? See the oil pump sprocket and gear near pulser pickup. Probably best to split cases. Does it have a title?

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the rust on the clutch side crank end,,where the oil goes in concerns me,,,if rust is inside that crank end then it got all the way in and will eat the crank big end bearing,,,the only cure for that is a new crank or completely disassembly of the crank so no issues arise in the future..

 

Cleaning out the frame,,good luck with that,,no idea how you would ever get scale rust out of there,,and every time the engine goes through a heat cycle rust will fall off and go through the oil pump...

 

I`d get a good used frame and rebuild the crank so it doesn`t haunt you later...

 

B

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The rust is weird... It looks like it stops at the timing chain. I'm wondering if this bike was drained and stored with no plug in. My theory is clutch went bad, they drained it and pulled that cover and then let it sit. That would explain no oil, rust in the oil tank, and possibly surface corrosion. 

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While it may not be the end all.. I have some vinegar in the oil tank and the first drain looks somewhat promising. I figure  if this isnt the cure I will go to toilet bowl cleaner, and if that doesn't work, electrolysis. Then I'm thinking I like shrubitup's idea of diesel and atf to pickle the tank.

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Edited by Tmosely1
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Stay away from toilet bowl cleaner, can do damage & change temper of metal. Vinegar works great, just need time.

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21 hours ago, bork said:

Looks like you got a great deal, upon first observation, until  I saw engine pics. I dont think you got burnt because a lot of parts can be sold off/parted out for what you got into it. Reason I say this, is, when looking at pic of clutch side, I see a water/rust mark, as if water was sitting in crank area. Meaning, a bunch of bearings are probably ruined, like tranny and crank bearings? See the oil pump sprocket and gear near pulser pickup. Probably best to split cases. Does it have a title?

 

20 hours ago, brianhare said:

the rust on the clutch side crank end,,where the oil goes in concerns me,,,if rust is inside that crank end then it got all the way in and will eat the crank big end bearing,,,the only cure for that is a new crank or completely disassembly of the crank so no issues arise in the future..

 

Cleaning out the frame,,good luck with that,,no idea how you would ever get scale rust out of there,,and every time the engine goes through a heat cycle rust will fall off and go through the oil pump...

 

I`d get a good used frame and rebuild the crank so it doesn`t haunt you later...

 

B

I agree with you guys.. I'm waiting on a manual to do the split. I need the clearance specs. What sux is the rod sided to side and up and down are really nice..... I hope it's not rust causing it. Clean interior 

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The spot on this gear is oil

 

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Question.... Does anyone have one of the Baja race bikes... Or a picture so I can see how they braced the frame. I will have to weld a few spots and might as well brace it up before its off to powder coat.

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Dropped the cylinder off for a quick cleanup and hone and the cylinder corrosion is gone. I also drained the tank for the 4th time..... Guess what.... Oil Tanks clean... Vinegar works. The only issue left is the filler neck still has some rust.  I put another half gallon in an made sure the filler neck was submerged. After that I guess im pickling it with atf and letting it sit for a few days... Throw a few beads of touch up on it and it's off for powder coat. 

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I love this thread!  I'm picking up a 99 xr650l in a couple of hours.  This thread is motivating me!  Keep the photos coming!

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Well.. I made some progress and have some news. This finally showed up and helps a bit.

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 Looks like Bork and Brian are correct... I am far enough into the motor to know it likely needs at least crank bearings.

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One bit of good news... The typical wear parts look to be usable. 

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i have seen a few shavings that concern me, but I believe they will be from the transmission. I feel almost a full tooth of play between the rocking back and forth on the output shaft.... Me thinnks there's some gear wear in there. 

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for being so nasty.. The parts are cleaning up well

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I also found what looks to be a signature or indicator on the internals... Can't get to it because my tusk flywheel puller won't roll this flywheel off. Anybody know if the factory marked internals?

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Got some more of the engine stripped and started cleaning the cases... Should have the correct flywheel puller tomorrow night, so it will be a case split tomorrow.

 

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i had to empty out one of the cooking oil jugs to find a good bottle for soaking the shifter.

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Everyone has a different method, but I'm a hundred pack of baggies kinda guy. It keeps me from having to dig for the right sized bolts or washers

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I have bumped into one odd thing... I have 5 gears.... But the paw sets @ 4-1/2. A few of the others do it occasionally, but roll in as soon as you spin the input shaft. Is it possibly because it's dry? I've read several threads where people mentioned these transmissions act strange when free ... But fine under a load. Is that really.. really.. correct?image.thumb.jpeg.56e756136cce8b6b9655e54f91cb2eb6.jpeg

 

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Verdict is in... A little rust on the crank and I already ordered both crank bearings.

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One broken case bolt

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One bad gear on the end of the input shaft

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And somehow.. I knocked an outer tooth off of the output shaft. I'm really thinking about running the shaft anyway

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