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i might be in on the new thumper.   My radiator guards and 13T sprocket showed up today. (early) gotta slap the chit on

 

I went to adjust the chain and the gawl dang adjuster bolts were seized I worked one out but snapped the other one off ?:banghead:    just bought a bunch of drill bits and heli-coil to fix it.

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i might be in on the new thumper.   My radiator guards and 13T sprocket showed up today. (early) gotta slap the chit on
 
I went to adjust the chain and the gawl dang adjuster bolts were seized I worked one out but snapped the other one off ?:banghead:    just bought a bunch of drill bits and heli-coil to fix it.


Common issue with these bikes.

When adjusted properly the chain should look REALLY loose.

Pull the rear shock out (only 2 bolts and you don't need to remove anything but the rear wheel) , put the R wheel back on, then put blocks under the rear tire until the f sprocket, swingarm pivot, and rear axle are all in a perfectly straight line. This is the "tightest" spot in the travel.

Now adjust your real wheel so the chain is almost tight.

Put the shock back in and let it hang from the stand. It should look way too loose. It's not, it's perfectly adjusted now.

Push up on the chain from underneath and measure the gap from the chain to swingarm behind the chain slider.

Mark that spot on the swingarm and write down the measurement. As long as you have that amount of gap (or less gap) then you don't have to worry about your chain being too tight.
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i might be in on the new thumper.   My radiator guards and 13T sprocket showed up today. (early) gotta slap the chit on
 
I went to adjust the chain and the gawl dang adjuster bolts were seized I worked one out but snapped the other one off ?:banghead:    just bought a bunch of drill bits and heli-coil to fix it.

Wtf. As Mitch to come over before a ride. Mitch will mitchgyver everything so you don't ruin the ride. She will also give you the complete list of crap to do before the next ride. Problems solved
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i decide im gonna drill that bolt out tomorrow when there is more light so i start  to tackle some other shiat and work on putting that JD jetting kit in i decide to go 0-3000ft since the primary use of the bike is from my house. all is well till i get to the main jet. The kit is supposed to come with a 162 a 168 a 170 and a 172. instead my kit has only a 162 165 and 168 :banghead: I need the 172. wtf m8. now i gotta work on geting the right &%$#@!in main jet tomorrow too

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1 hour ago, mitchb said:

 


Common issue with these bikes.

When adjusted properly the chain should look REALLY loose.

Pull the rear shock out (only 2 bolts and you don't need to remove anything but the rear wheel ) , put the R wheel back on, then put blocks under the rear tire until the f sprocket, swingarm pivot, and rear axle are all in a perfectly straight line. This is the "tightest" spot in the travel.

Now adjust your real wheel so the chain is almost tight.

Put the shock back in and let it hang from the stand. It should look way too loose. It's not, it's perfectly adjusted now.

Push up on the chain from underneath and measure the gap from the chain to swingarm behind the chain slider.

Mark that spot on the swingarm and write down the measurement. As long as you have that amount of gap (or less gap) then you don't have to worry about your chain being too tight.

 

 

 

so what youre saying is dont follow what the book says??  (8-10mm)   i had about 4 or 5 mm was gonna put it to 10 then the bolt broke off.  the chain definitely looks loose and sloppy and makes a bunch of noise while riding.   PDS thing?

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PDS bikes sit a little stink bug...  especially the older ones... so the chain looks loose when the bike is sitting on the kickstand.  Guys tend to tighten them too much cause they think they look loose and end up wrecking the seal behind the sprocket, stretching the chain, wearing the sprockets and can damage the counter sprocket shaft and/or bearing.

Mitch's procedure will teach you whats perfect for your bike.  Then you'll always get it right without having to go through the whole thing every time. I can just look at a buddy's PDS and tell you if he's running it tight now.  But I've always been a 90 percenter on looking at nuts and bolts and knowing what size wrench or socket to grab too.  If you are like that you'll know your chain tension by look and feel quick enough. 

Just listen to Mitchie. ?

Edited by Jeff aka Bolt
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5 minutes ago, Jeff aka Bolt said:

PDS bikes sit a little stink bug...  especially the older ones... so the chain looks loose when the bike is sitting on the kickstand.  Guys tend to tighten them too much cause they think they look loose and end up wrecking the seal behind the sprocket, stretching the chain, wearing the sprockets and can damage the counter sprocket shaft and/or bearing.

Mitch's procedure will teach you whats perfect for your bike.  Then you'll always get it right without having to go through the whole thing every time. I can just look at a buddies PDS and tell you if he's running it tight now.  But I've always been a 90 percenter on looking at nuts and bolts and knowing what size wrench or socket to grab too.  If you are like that you'll know your chain tension by look and feel quick enough. 

Just listen to Mitchie. ?

 

 

adjusting the chain sounds like cake.......getting that busted off bolt out is the biatch :o

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2 hours ago, DaBadazZ said:

Yo m@ u fixin to make it or nah ¿

I be out son.

Drove to Malcolm Smith to get the right damn jet closed guess no one in that industry works on Easter chaparral was closed too.

 

Put my old 178 jet back in then modded the diaphragm and then I've spent the rest of the day trying to get that bolt out.

I will be happy/lucky if I can take this bitch behind the neighborhood for some hot laps tomorrow evening

 

The previous owner gave me some leever guards thinking about running them even though I might disappoint the parents for having a gay son. Do I just need to hog the ends of the grips out or what?  This thing has the ODI locking grips on it.

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