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Timing chain still loose after new chain and manual tensioner

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Hoping someone can give me some ideas on where to go from here. 

Got the bike, lots of noise from the top end. Changed the timing chain due to slack, reassembled, still makes a lot of ticking and clacki g noise. 

Disassemble and inspect cams and remove faulty kacr which was eating into head, reassembled and some of the noise is gone. 

So I decided to instll a manual chain tensioner thinking stock automatic was faulty.  After adjusting it till some noise is gone the tensioner is nearly maxed out. 

Somethings not right and i can figure out what.

Can any one give me some ideas ?

Worn guides maybe ?

Edit: klr250

Edited by Jeffbey32

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Keep in mind that klx motors are a little noisy.

Be careful with the manual tensioner. Easy to over tension the chain and cause larger issues.

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Its actually for a klr250. I adjusted the tensioner with the top cover off. And after the bike was back together I backed it out a bit and the noise started coming back. So I put it back where it was from the initial adjustment. 

But somethings not right for a new chain to be maxed out.

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Well the klr 250 motors are noisy too. Infact every kawasaki 250 I've had has been noisy.

Anyway define maxed out. Its either tight to spec or not.

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The new manual chain tensioner has about 2 threads left on it. Its about the same length as the stock tensioner. 

The chain is tight now, but my concern is that when the chain does stretch over time I have no adjustment left to eat up the slack. 

 

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I don't like manual tensioners. But a chain will only stretch a couple mm's. not a lot. Did you follow the tensioning instructions with manual tensioner? If so was it quiet at that point? Then do that.

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Yes it's quiet now. The directions were pretty basic. Something like "remove top cover, adjust tensioner until chain has 3/8 inch deflection" But Im not concerned with the tensioner itself. 

I'm worried something else needs to be fixed or replaced, that is actually causing the chain to be too loose. The original timing chain was replaced with less than 7000 indicated miles. Afaik that's a pretty short life span. But since it has a new chain on it and Im still having chain tension issues I can only imagine that something else is wrong. 

 

So my question is still :

What could cause a new timing chain to still be loose? Worn chain guides?

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I remember reading that the guides should be replaced when replacing an old chain. I'd guess that this is likely the cause of your problem. These chains seem to be held to such fine tolerances anyway, I would consider it a rule to replace all the guides when replacing the chain.

Perhaps the engine saw some hard use from prior owners, and the guides wore out more then usual. I don't think it's normal for the KACR to fail like that from "average" use.

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7 hours ago, Jeffbey32 said:

Thanks.I'll have to get the guides asap. Should I replace the idler assembly as well? 

Are you referring to the idler gear in the kick start mechanism?  I haven't heard of a problem with them on the KLR250, just the KLX300.  If it rocks on the shaft it's mounted on, replace it.

Ride on

Brewster

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2 hours ago, brewster said:

Are you referring to the idler gear in the kick start mechanism?  I haven't heard of a problem with them on the KLR250, just the KLX300.  If it rocks on the shaft it's mounted on, replace it.

Ride on

Brewster

Capture-1.jpg part #39132 is referred to as idler assembly. The timing chain wraps under the crank, up past the tensioner, up over the "idler assembly" then wraps up over the intake cam gear. Its plastic like the guides which is why i was asking. 

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Ahhhhh, OK, the KLX250 and 300's don't have one of those.  But, same suggestion.....see if it rocks on the shaft it rides on and inspect it for wear from the chain.

Ride on

Brewster

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