2008 KTM 300 XC-W Rebuild

[Justinsavs]

Hey all, I have a few questions. I just sold my 2002 KTM 380EXC and bought a 2008 KTM 300 XC-W with 373 hours. I did it because I didn't want to have to figure out how I was going to come up with money to do a crank rebuild in the future. But anyways I love it, although it isn't a 380. It has crazy CRAZY torque. I loved the power from the 380, and was kinda disappointing not having all that power right from idle, But the ability to actually lug the motor in the low RPMs and not stall the bike or boil it over... EVER. Made me pretty dang happy. Also the 300 is much quieter than the 380. Must be those extra ccs that contibute to the noise.

Anyways, the other day I rode my bike around to warm it up, then let it idle for about 5min while I got my gear on... Right before I took off, I heard a Squeal and it shut down. I go to kick it again and it's stuck. I pulled it apart, and it wasn't the top end that was Seized, but the bottom end that was. I was able to wiggle it loose after a few turns but when the crank turns it isn't 100% smooth which tells me it must be one of the bearings. So I guess I'll be doing what I had planned all along.

So back to my question, now that I will have the cases split, should I replace all the Transmission bearings along with the main crank bearings? Or do I never really have to worry about the Transmission bearings? There's a full Wrench Rabbit kit for $620 on ebay, which includes all bearings including transmission bearings, or should I just get the bottom end and top end rebuild which is close to $500? (I was planning on doing both top and bottom anyways).

[CopenKagan]

Personally, if it were me, I would just replace everything while you're in there.  It seems like a relatively inexpensive insurance policy, regardless of the condition of the existing bearings.

[stapez11]

I have to agree with the previous poster. Overall 350 hours is a lot on a bottom end and gearbox so replacing a few extra ball bearings isn't a bad idea. When ordering the kit ensure the ball bearings are long life and have the same part number as ktm.

[pat22043]

For an extra $120 and zero extra labor, you can remove all doubt. Go full tilt.

 

[sbest]

My 300 and 380 still have the original bearings, transmission bearings are tough and rarely fail these days. That said, I tend to agree with the other posters. I tend to inspect the bearings and replace replace only the problem ones. I always replace a main crank bearing if it has been pulled off the shaft, I always replace the seals.

Here is a good PDF on bearing wear and inspection. Remember, all the pictures are worst case scenarios, yours may be much more subtle and need a magnifying glass to spot. 

http://www.schaeffler.com/remotemedien/media/_shared_media/08_media_library/01_publications/barden/brochure_2/downloads_24/barden_bearing_failures_us_en.pdf

[Justinsavs]

Alright guys, I will go ahead and get the big kit then and replace all bearings.