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Clutch Issue???

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Hi guys I got a new budget bike tonight and the guy said it has one ride on a new clutch. It also has a very cheap looking shiny new clutch lever and perch. What I have noticed is that to be able to pull in the clutch and put the bike into gear there has to be no play in the clutch at all or have it slightly engaged. If I set it up with any play at all it will not fully engage when pulling the lever to the bar. I have played with the lever adjustment and the cable adjustment and where the cable end arm thing is on the shaft that goes into the clutch. I also tried another perch and lever from another rm with no luck. Bike is a 1995 rm 125.

My question is do I have something adjusted wrong or with a new clutch maybe do I need to wear it in just a bit? I dont want to burn the clutch up with having it tight. 

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1 hour ago, lcgordon711 said:

Hi guys I got a new budget bike tonight and the guy said it has one ride on a new clutch. It also has a very cheap looking shiny new clutch lever and perch. What I have noticed is that to be able to pull in the clutch and put the bike into gear there has to be no play in the clutch at all or have it slightly engaged. If I set it up with any play at all it will not fully engage when pulling the lever to the bar. I have played with the lever adjustment and the cable adjustment and where the cable end arm thing is on the shaft that goes into the clutch. I also tried another perch and lever from another rm with no luck. Bike is a 1995 rm 125.

My question is do I have something adjusted wrong or with a new clutch maybe do I need to wear it in just a bit? I dont want to burn the clutch up with having it tight. 

"One ride on a new clutch"

Not sure what he means by that. 

Pull the clutch cover and look for notches worn into the clutch basket.

Edited by WALKINGWOUNDED
added quote
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Thanks I will check tomorrow. I should have known this. I have had this problem with another bike and I filed the grooves a bit and it fixed it. I will take a look. Can I run some type of oil from the auto parts store? I have read ppl using like atf or something. Would like to try some new oil. There is some oil that has leaked out I can see. Not exactly sure where it is coming from. 

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9 minutes ago, lcgordon711 said:

Thanks I will check tomorrow. I should have known this. I have had this problem with another bike and I filed the grooves a bit and it fixed it. I will take a look. Can I run some type of oil from the auto parts store? I have read ppl using like atf or something. Would like to try some new oil. There is some oil that has leaked out I can see. Not exactly sure where it is coming from. 

I run Mobil 1 synthetic a.t.f. in all my gear boxes; 2-stroke and 4-stroke.  As long as the gear box is separate from the crankcase.

Synthetic A.T.F. works well, but no fluid will stop aluminum basket and hub notching.

My KTM's have a steel or stainless basket, so never any notching problems.

I've seen aftermarket aluminum baskets that have steel inserts where the clutch plates ride.

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Thanks for the info about the atf. I will buy some tonight. One question to kind of ask again. This is why I did not suspect the basket notching. When I have the clutch correctly adjusted it will die when I put it into gear. But when I have it adjusted really tight or very partially disengaged it will stay running but it will almost die. I would have thought if it was the notching that it would catch halfway disengaged all the time and be the same no matter where you have it adjusted.

Thanks

I will take the clutch apart tonight.

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11 hours ago, lcgordon711 said:

Thanks for the info about the atf. I will buy some tonight. One question to kind of ask again. This is why I did not suspect the basket notching. When I have the clutch correctly adjusted it will die when I put it into gear. But when I have it adjusted really tight or very partially disengaged it will stay running but it will almost die. I would have thought if it was the notching that it would catch halfway disengaged all the time and be the same no matter where you have it adjusted.

Thanks

I will take the clutch apart tonight.

I suppose it could be the fulcrum or push rod worn oddly so it doesn't graduate enough and or to quickly, and you're compensating by a very tight clutch adjustment.

I've also heard of people adding an extra plate or fiber disc to try and get a better bite on the clutch.

I would definitely want to look inside before I made any decision or parts purchase.

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well I think I figured most of it out. When I pulled the clutch cover off and tried to undo the spring bolts I could not get them undone. I had to use a strap wrench around the clutch basket to loosen the bolts. So that means the guy way over torqued the bolts. I retorqued them and put it back together and it basically works. I think the basket may be a tad grooved because it was not quite perfect put way way better.

Thanks guys 

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Over tightening the bolts won't affect the clutch operation.

The bolts tighten against a pre-set depth shoulder.

If you over tighten them, you will either break them off, or strip the threads.

Make sure your bolts aren't too loose just to make the clutch operate properly; all you're doing is compensating for something that is incorrect.

Edited by WALKINGWOUNDED
added info

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Oh well I guess I need to take it apart again. Good thing it's easy. I thought that would maybe have something to do with it especially cuz it seemed to almost fix it. I will check it out again

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Go to the TT parts store, and look at an exploded view of the clutch assembly.

Make sure the clutch plates and discs are installed correct sequence, and the correct number of each.

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22 hours ago, lcgordon711 said:

Oh well I guess I need to take it apart again. Good thing it's easy. I thought that would maybe have something to do with it especially cuz it seemed to almost fix it. I will check it out again

Go to the TT parts store, and look at an exploded view of the clutch assembly.

Make sure the clutch plates and discs are installed in the correct sequence, and the correct number of each.

Don't rule out notched basket/hub being the problem.

If the basket/hub is notched, and you pull the clutch in a normal amount, the disc may not have enough room to get out of the notches, and will stay somewhat engaged.  But with a little more pull of the lever, the pressure plate may release just a little more, and let the disc come out of the notches, and release just a little more.

Mostly, if you pull in the clutch, and it tries to take off, it's usually a notched basket.

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Thanks for the comments and info. I took it apart tonight weird though the clutch basket would not come out of the clutch cover. Are all bikes like that. I will have to take the inner clutch cover off which means I need to drain the coolant and stuff. I did have that much time tonight. But I did take the plates out and checked them and the basket. Definatly some groves. Not the worst I have seen. I will take it apart maybe this weekend or next week and file it down a bit. No way will I buy a new basket yet this thing is budget bike all the way. Zero money is going into it Except a throttle cable for safety reasons. 

I am almost positive it is the grooves. It is the only thing it can be.

Thanks again for all the help.

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