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sheared off axle cap stud

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I was just putting my front wheel back on my 230f and one of the little axle cap studs snapped on me. Had the torque wrench set to 8 lbs but I messed up somehow.

How are these replaced? Do you have to grab it with vice grips and turn it out or what? Is it a common part at a Honda dealer?

Any help appreciated!

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They are double ended studs. Not sure what year bike you have but the part number is 92900-06025-0E.

 

Is there any chance you can get two nuts onto the remaining thread? If so, put two on and tighten them against each other then use the bottom one to back out the stud just like a bolt.

 

 

 

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Might be a good idea to hit it with some PB blaster (penetrating oil) before hand.

 

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Thanks for the fast answers!  Can't believe you came up with the actual part number in 6 minutes.

Can't get 2 nuts on it, it's just a little too short. I shot some penetrating oil on it and I'll try to turn it out tomorrow.

Thanks again.

Edited by dougout

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If you happen to have welding equipment, it might be easier to screw a nut into the thread then weld it on effectively turning it into a bolt.

Unfortunately, I have had my share of broken bolts and studs in the past two months so I have checked out what I think are some of the better solutions.

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Very common.  These nuts require very little torque (9 ft-lb) so be careful.  You may be able to get two thin jam nuts on there to remove it.  You can also try cutting a slot in the end but that is quite a stretch.

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I would definitely use heat on both the stud and the aluminum around it.  If Honda used any kind of Loc-Tite, heat will release it.  Steel stud into threaded aluminum hole with loc-tite can result in thread removal.  Definitely do not use red loc-tite when reinstalling, I don't think I'd use any.

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There's a procedure for installing the clamp.  Torque the top nuts all the way down to close the gap between the forks and clamp, then torque the bottom nuts to spec.

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3 minutes ago, Baja Rambler said:

There's a procedure for installing the clamp.  Torque the top nuts all the way down to close the gap between the forks and clamp, then torque the bottom nuts to spec.

That's the first I've heard of such a method.

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1 minute ago, VortecCPI said:

It sure is!  Thank you!

How long did you ride with it gapped, not that it makes much difference?  

We had a tire shop shear one of those studs off in San Juanico, southern Baja using a 1/2" drive ratchet.  My buddy had to apply a lot of heat with a torch to get it out, not so easy.

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I would never use torque wrench on axle clamp. 50 years riding never. Have a Buddy Mike up at Coyotes with a 230.Baja Hooter you know him former BMW mechanic.Already broke same studs on Front Axle clamp.Also used torque wrench on valve adj nuts broke all 4.

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The bike is a 2007. I expect the part number is right. All I've done so far is spray it with penetrating oil and tap it a few times (I've been told that helps the oil get in). If I get home early enough tonight I'm going to try heat and vice grips (don't have a welder).

It really seemed to shear off easily...

My Clymer manual tells me how much to torque the nuts but doesn't say anything about replacing the studs.

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When we design ASME Section VIII, Division 1 flanges per Appendix 2 we never use studs less then 5/8" because anything smaller can be sheared with hand tools.  Per TEMA RGP we can NOT use anything smaller than 5/8".  And this goes for SA-193 B7 studs which are good for 125 KSI tensile and 105 KSI yield!  It's a wonder more riders aren't shearing those tiny little studs up front...

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