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'99 XR400R Enduro Wiring Updates

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So here is my conundrum - I have wired up my own harness for my enduro package as I did not like the Tusk version with lots of things I did not want or need. I've wired three different bikes and can read the wiring diagrams fine - even designed/built my own 12V harness with capacitor for my 1970 CT70. Back to the issue - everything works with the exception of my 12V aftermarket horn. I tagged off the blue wire for the headlight (headlight works fine) and sent it to the horn button and then to the horn and then grounded back to the wiring harness. When I press the horn button the light dims and the horn barely sounds  - meeeep meeeep. I checked the voltage draw and its only like 1.7V to the horn. Just awful and wont pass DMV to get my street license plate.

 

So I put on my thinking cap and drew on my experience with my CT70 (solid state with a capacitor instead of a battery) and I think the absence of a battery is likely the culprit on my XR400 as it typically evens out the voltage draw on the system (similar to the battery) to provide power to all components. So my question is what if I put a 0-25V 22,000uF capacitor (like I used on my CT70) on the White/Yellow wire coming out of the AC regulator that eventually ties into the BLUE wire that feeds the headlight, horn and rear running taillight? Would that provide the stabilization for the voltage draws when I use all of my accessories?

 

Thanks for any help.     

xr400 Wiring Diagram.JPG

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Not sure myself but don't you need DC for the horn. I know I converted to DC myself to run led lights and wound up rewinding the stator to up power at idle. Horn works fine but if I turn my headlight off it gets slightly louder.

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Doesn't the AC regulator convert it all to DC off the stator and then feed the system DC? This is the reason for the headlight going dim when at low idle and there is fluctuating voltage, right?

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Thanks for the education. 👍 I guess then that I need to put a capacitor on the tagged line going to the horn only or can a capacitor still be installed as mentioned and the accessories run through that?

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I had to put a rectifier on before my capacitor. There are some different ones and ways out there, but I've been running the Trailtech Reg/Rectifier that has an adjustable regulator for if you go battery eventually.

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I'm thinking that I should go this route and add in a reg/rec then a good capacitor (25V - 22,000uF).

 

Is this wired in correctly?

xr400 Wiring Diagram - DC.JPG

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On 4/20/2017 at 9:33 AM, 702inda509 said:

Not sure myself but don't you need DC for the horn. I know I converted to DC myself to run led lights and wound up rewinding the stator to up power at idle. Horn works fine but if I turn my headlight off it gets slightly louder.

Part number for a horn that works on AC please!!

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46 minutes ago, ThumperCurtis said:

 

Is this wired in correctly?

xr400 Wiring Diagram - DC.JPG

I don't think so. I believe you'll need to take positive and negative from the rectifier/capacitor instead of sharing the ground with the AC system that is still powering the ICM. 

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Part number for a horn that works on AC please!!

I don't know of an AC horn but they might exist.

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Check out an old post from N16ht5 about this. It was called "DIY dual sport guide to the XR400 part 2"

 

 

Edit"DIY Dual Sport guide for the XR400, part II"

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The Trail Tech reg/rec provides a blue wire that the negative from the battery/capacitor connects to. Supposed to help prevent overcharging or charging small batteries/capacitor too fast.

I also wired in a fuse from the battery positive to the W/Y wire.

TT regrec.jpg

Edited by Trailryder42
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   Had to clean the mud off so there is a bit of a sheen in the pictures from the water. Anyway I found the papers from the Trailtech rec/reg and took pictures of them also.  I had the factory 4plug as the connection, but after a year or so it burnt out (might have been a bit loose or too much amperage)and I went to a trailer flat 4 and it has been trouble free.  All the wires go down to the reg/rec and then out to the capacitor were it then goes to ground and a fused power line that I left long in case I decided to go battery some day.  DSCF0573.JPG.de68e0595758ba1ae686a120c5953dae.JPGDSCF0574.JPG.f7e1ad8f00164ef411cc5210bcdf147d.JPGDSCF0575.JPG.12f2407c5df8f9fadac100eed3019d95.JPGDSCF0567.JPG.943b054a10db8fdca5763745aa0aaafa.JPGDSCF0570.JPG.385487d3e0c014c365422b92756e3101.JPGDSCF0569.JPG.1484ac1f2fdc2b78c0f23ad7635fb5a1.JPG

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@702inda509 Thanks ever so much for the pics. That pretty much confirms my setup. I've updated the ground to go to the frame instead of the harness (although ground is ground is ground). The two circuits are separate without the CDI crossing the DC accessory circuit (that I can tell) but they both ground to the frame. I'll try and wire this up with a 10amp fuse and see if I can get things all sorted.

 

Let me know if you see any problems.   

xr400 Wiring Diagram - DC.JPG

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I'm not an expert, I was just a guy who muddled his way through a couple years ago with the inspiration from N16ht5 post. I started with the p/o's Tusk kit and was totally unhappy with the battery thing, along with the on/off switch on the bars and unwrapped the whole harness and evaluated what I wanted and didn't, soldered stuff on, cut stuff off and re wrapped it all up into its current condition. I eliminated the battery and now have power coming from the bike to the harness. It's nice because the Tusk kit had the connections and handlebar controls that were already all compatible.

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Quick update. The above wiring diagram I posted is correct. I just finished the rewire adding in the Reg/Rec and the capacitor and everything works as expected. This is an alternative if you don't want to spend $200 on a prefab kit and don't mind a little hard work yourself. Total cost is about $60.

 

Parts:

Regulator/Rectifier- $35 (I used a beefy one from SparckMoto.com)

Capacitor - $18 (Aerovox 22,000 uF 25V bought on eBay)

4 Pin connector - $9 I used a Deutsch 4pin waterproof connector I had (get them from Amazon

Ring terminal connector - $1 I used 3 of them

16ga wire - $1 I used 18" of red (power) and 18" green (ground)

Electric Tape $1

 

Steps:

1. Remove seat, remove gas tank, unplug old AC reg and remove, unwrap main harness to give you room to work, remove ground from Coil (green wire with ring terminal )

2.  Clip off old 4pin connector from harness and rewire with new connector ends and housing

3. Clip off ground ring terminal. Pigtail in new green wire with new ring terminal and original green ground wire. Remount on coil bolt.

4. Wire up end of new reg/rec with 4pin connector and pigtail in the new red wire going to capacitor 

5. Determine mounting point for new Reg/Rec and capacitor and mount both

6. Run new red and green wires to the capacitor, clip ends and mount ring terminals.

7. Connect new reg/rec to main harness and wrap wires as you see fit.

 

 

 

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Thanks Curtis, nice work.
I like alternatives especially when they save $$$[emoji106]. Will be using your parts list and direction in the near future.
Respectfully, G in Vegas.
Keep the hits coming[emoji108].

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