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Do i need a clutch cylender rebuild ?

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Ok so i just bought the bike. Only put about 5 hours on it and I've been noticing that when I pull in the clutch it feels Like the motor is still engaged. Like if I'm sitting there in gear the bike doesn't stall or want to move. But let's say I'm going down a hill with the clutch it, it has a high idle and then as the bike slows down so does the idle.... I'm what it is or if it's just normal, any help would be great. Its a 2013 250sx

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Bleed the system first.

Make sure you use the correct fluid.

It's labeled on the reservoir.

 

 

Though if it's not jerking or stalling while idling I'd say it's probably fine but never hurts to freshen things up on a new to you bike.

 

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2 hours ago, Trailryder42 said:

Had to reread your post several times to get an idea of what you're trying to convey. At first I thought maybe you have a Rekluse clutch and didn't know it.

Nah stock hydraulic clutch. 

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5 hours ago, lhc450 said:

Bleed the system first.

Make sure you use the correct fluid.

It's labeled on the reservoir.

 

 

Though if it's not jerking or stalling while idling I'd say it's probably fine but never hurts to freshen things up on a new to you bike.

 

Ya I just find it weird that the idle is higher when it's moving vs really low when stopped. Even had an issue starting in gear when in a rut yesterday, would want to go but wouldn't. Threw it in neutral and it fired up first kick

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How many hours are on the bike?
Basket could be grooved and plates could be hanging up.
That usually presents with hard to find neutral when running and jerky movement especially when cold.

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4 hours ago, lhc450 said:

How many hours are on the bike?
Basket could be grooved and plates could be hanging up.
That usually presents with hard to find neutral when running and jerky movement especially when cold.

Neutral is to find while running. No different Then off. Its not jerky, not that I know, the only time it's jerky is due to me being new to two strokes lol. And no clue on hours, no hour meter when I bought it, but just threw one on which doesn't help in this case

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On 2017-4-24 at 1:02 PM, lhc450 said:

How many hours are on the bike?
Basket could be grooved and plates could be hanging up.
That usually presents with hard to find neutral when running and jerky movement especially when cold.

Ok went out riding all day yesterday and now the bike does move with the clutch in. It will barely crawl in a level surface but it does.... Could it be master cylender leaking a bit when pulled in and kind of engaging or am I looking at other problems ?

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Ok went out riding all day yesterday and now the bike does move with the clutch in. It will barely crawl in a level surface but it does.... Could it be master cylender leaking a bit when pulled in and kind of engaging or am I looking at other problems ?

Master cylinder builds the pressure needed to move the throw out and disengage the clutch pack. If it was bad it wouldn't build pressure and you'd know it by lack of feel in the lever like you had air in the line.
Creeping could be worn plates and or notches in the basket.
Either way you'll need to pull apart and measure clutch pack thickness and wear on the basket.
If it was me, I'd measure the steel plates, replace if needed and put new fiber plates in. Not knowing the hours and the history of the bike, wouldn't be a bad idea to put a new clutch in anyway. Baskets usually last a good while but again, you don't know how hard this bike was ridden so take a close look at it.
Manual will have all the service limit specs.

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3 minutes ago, lhc450 said:


Master cylinder builds the pressure needed to move the throw out and disengage the clutch pack. If it was bad it wouldn't build pressure and you'd know it by lack of feel in the lever like you had air in the line.
Creeping could be worn plates and or notches in the basket.
Either way you'll need to pull apart and measure clutch pack thickness and wear on the basket.
If it was me, I'd measure the steel plates, replace if needed and put new fiber plates in. Not knowing the hours and the history of the bike, wouldn't be a bad idea to put a new clutch in anyway. Baskets usually last a good while but again, you don't know how hard this bike was ridden so take a close look at it.
Manual will have all the service limit specs.

I've never really dealt with clutches before, how could worn plates cause the clutch to stay engaged ? 

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I bought a 450 sxf and the kid was putting brake fluid in the clutch and I didn't know any better. Shop drained and flushed the fluid they said brake fluid could swell up the clutch line.

Try changing your fluid.

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4 minutes ago, ballane89 said:

I bought a 450 sxf and the kid was putting brake fluid in the clutch and I didn't know any better. Shop drained and flushed the fluid they said brake fluid could swell up the clutch line.

Try changing your fluid.

It tells me to use dot 4 or dot 5.1 brake fluid in the clutch

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I've never really dealt with clutches before, how could worn plates cause the clutch to stay engaged ? 

The plates can get hung up in the grooves of the basket and not allow the pack to fully disengage.
Worn fibers usually make the clutch slip really bad but can't stick to the steels and hamper action.
You can continue to bleed the system with the correct fluid and see if it clears up.
Clutches are fairly cheep and having a fresh one isn't a bad thing [emoji16]

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Just now, Midnitewarrior4 said:

It tells me to use dot 4 or dot 5.1 brake fluid in the clutch

So it's not a magura clutch?

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It tells me to use dot 4 or dot 5.1 brake fluid in the clutch


You want this. IMG_4713.JPG

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1 minute ago, lhc450 said:


The plates can get hung up in the grooves of the basket and not allow the pack to fully disengage.
Worn fibers usually make the clutch slip really bad but can't stick to the steels and hamper action.
You can continue to bleed the system with the correct fluid and see if it clears up.
Clutches are fairly cheep and having a fresh one isn't a bad thing emoji16.png

Then I guess it's the clutch basket cause the clutch doesn't slip at all, and I was doing hill climbs all day yesterday so I would have noticed it slipping lol

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Try back bleeding the system if you have the proper fluid in it already.

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5 minutes ago, lhc450 said:

Try back bleeding the system if you have the proper fluid in it already.
 

I'll try it. If the basket is grooved is it ok to still ride it ? And would I be able to file the grooves down to smooth it out a bit ? Cause 400 plus $ for just the basket is a little much for me right now...

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Need to see if the manual has a service limit but here's a couple examples and a video.
Remember it's You Tube so everyone is an expert so take it for what it's worth. [emoji16]

IMG_4714.JPG

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11 minutes ago, lhc450 said:

Need to see if the manual has a service limit but here's a couple examples and a video.
Remember it's You Tube so everyone is an expert so take it for what it's worth. emoji16.png

IMG_4714.JPG
 

Can't watch the vid right now. But the picture is of a notched basket ? So it's supossed to be really smooth ?

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