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I hate that the PWK does not have a float bowl drain screw. Only the big nut for a drain. It makes it impossible to do the clear tube method of setting the float height. Someone could sell many of these if they would buy a handfull of the big bowl nuts and tap a fitting into it to accept a hose. No need for a shut off screw. It could be removed after the test. Who wants the job? 

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I hate that the PWK does not have a float bowl drain screw. Only the big nut for a drain. It makes it impossible to do the clear tube method of setting the float height. Someone could sell many of these if they would buy a handfull of the big bowl nuts and tap a fitting into it to accept a hose. No need for a shut off screw. It could be removed after the test. Who wants the job? 



Thousands, millions, trillions? of mechanics, technicians, owners, riders, enthusiasts have been setting the float levels on every kind of gasoline engine ever made for AT LEAST a hundred years with out using the hose method.

Lol. Your just spoiled....
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8 minutes ago, adnohguy said:

 

 


Thousands, millions, trillions? of mechanics, technicians, owners, riders, enthusiasts have been setting the float levels on every kind of gasoline engine ever made for AT LEAST a hundred years with out using the hose method.

Lol. Your just spoiled....

 

 

LOL, just to easy, but I once set my 230 carb per the book, only to double check per the clear hose.... and it was off. So I have never used the measure tool again. Plus, everytime I remove the bowl, it's a pain with that overflow pipe. I am always afraid I have bent something. I rarely get that perfect tilt, sometimes when right, it will fall off, but most times I am trying to find the perfect tilt. I started to take a pic today when I found it, but my phone was out of reach. 

Edited by 1gr8bldr

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1 hour ago, stevethe said:

What $18.66 gets you!

 

IMG_3736.PNG

I have one. Way to much trouble and you still need to double check it with a clear tube

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You could clamp pwk to fixture above cereal bowl.

. . . . with the float bowl off.

 

.

 

Edited by Baja Rambler

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7 hours ago, stevethe said:

Double check. I've never. 

I set my first one  using the tool, by the manual, and thought to myself to double check. It was off. Went back, double looked at what I had done wrong, could not see why. Now I just don't bother with the tool. If anyone else has ever done this, sound off so I don't conclude I am not able to follow directions in my manual (:

Edited by 1gr8bldr

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Sorry but IMO:

one does not really need any type of a tool to set the float level properly on a 230f stock carb....

set the engine side of the carb (outlet) on a flat,LEVEL, uncluttered surface with the float bowl unattached from the carb.

 

Visually (eyeball) carb level, side view, sight down the the float valve assembly that the float is not twisted and both "Bulbs" are even and parallel with each other.

Not? Then make it so.

 

Next, lift the bottom of the carb up SLIGHTLY and visualize (use good lighting)(and reading glasses if required) to see when the tang on the float JUST CONTACTS the CLOSED needle in the seat.

(The needle is USUALLY spring loaded on most carbs) so keep that in mind.

 

This should happen EXACTLY when the flat part of float assembly that holds the "bulbs in place is perfectly parallel and perpendicular to the flat part of the carb base where the Bowl gasket contacts the carb body.

Bend tang a tiny bit a time until it's (the float) perfectly parallel to the carb body.

Practice makes perfect!

 

This is the way I have always done it since the early seventies starting out with Q 50's, Z 50's, S 90's, trail 90's etc, etc, and MOST every other Honda that comes to mind with 1 carb per cylinder since then.

 

It's just second nature to me and if a carb is apart in my hands, it just happens automatically.

 

You may find it easier than fitting hoses and cheaper than purchasing tools?

 

Or Not?

 

 

 

 

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I use to look at them also. If someone buggered it up it would need adjusting. You really can't go wrong with the tool however it's foolproof. 

 

I purchased the OEM tool from Honda back in the early 70's it looked just like the tool in your photo.

 

Back in those days all floats were brass. The float pivot pin fit loose.

When checking the float level on the bike, with the float hanging, the tool only touched one side of the float, because of the loose fitting pivot pins, it caused the brass float to cock sideways higher on the one side and hang lower on the other. This was frustrating to me and took more time to get it spot on.

 

Then I noticed with carb on a bench with the engine side of the carb on a flat level surface, the loose pivot pin was not as much of an issue.

 

That's when I finally figured out the above mentioned way to do it, and never looked back.

 

On the bike hanging now, I turn on the petcock with the float in the closed position to check the float level.

By only touching the part that the pivot pin slides through, and letting the float drop just enough to release fuel, one can get the float level set right where it needs to be. If it's level with the gasket surface, it's good to go.

 

I suppose that I still have that 45 year old tool...somewhere?

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2 minutes ago, RedMesa said:

I suppose I will never go that route, although very simple. I slapped on my clear bowl, carb still in hand, held it level after hooking up the fuel line,  open the petcock, watched it fill to perfect, LOL, then replaced the clear bowl with the stock bowl and mounted back in the intake boot. I just needed to verify because that PWK carb has had a little pressure on it as I was learning to remove the bowl. I now know that the trick is to turn it upside down so that the floats will move out of the way. 

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Jets are us has some aluminum bowl nuts that are deeper, allowing more metal to work with and likely hold up better over the stock cast

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I was trying not to admit my age but 
IMG_3738.thumb.JPG.236a6237e5d02a430b9125fe3ee1efd2.JPG


Exactly, thats the same one that I have....(somewhere)

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