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2007 DRZ400SM battery not charging

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With the engine running, the battery is only at 12.4v

I had previously gone through the electrical system, and found that both the stator and the RR were bad. Replaced them both, and yet the battery is still not charging. 

I figure my next course of action is to try the free power mod to bypass the wiring harness?

I also tested the AC output of the new stator (disconnected from the RR), and only got readings of ~22v at idle, which shot up quickly up to 80+ when the engine is revved. Not sure if that's an issue.
 

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At idle the output voltage at the battery should be around 14v or better,usually 14.25 -14.4v or so.If you check the output voltage just before the r/r connector to the battery you'd probably be surprised.I'll bet the freee power mod will be of great benefit.

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Above  ++.  Charge the battery off the bike.

What I suggest is use sewing pins to penetrate the Red and Black wires out of the RR.  Do this in an area that you will cut off when you do the free Power mod. (I never recommend doing this to good wiring that will continue to be used).  Measure the voltage near the RR and measure the voltage at the battery.  This will tell you what you are losing in the wiring.

What did you use for replacement stator and RR?  Why did you think th RR was bad?

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13 minutes ago, Noble said:

Above  ++.  Charge the battery off the bike.

What I suggest is use sewing pins to penetrate the Red and Black wires out of the RR.  Do this in an area that you will cut off when you do the free Power mod. (I never recommend doing this to good wiring that will continue to be used).  Measure the voltage near the RR and measure the voltage at the battery.  This will tell you what you are losing in the wiring.

What did you use for replacement stator and RR?  Why did you think th RR was bad?

Will do. I've got it off the bike right now on a tender. 

The replacement stator was a ricky stator from thumpertalk (RSDRZ400 one). The RR was off of a parts bike that i tested for continuity. All checked out on the diode settings.

The RR I suspected was faulty was reading continuity in both directions on both the black and red wires across all three yellow wires when it was removed from the bike.

Would regular sewing pins be fine?

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Will do. I've got it off the bike right now on a tender.-----OK

The replacement stator was a ricky stator  from thumpertalk (RSDRZ400 one). -----good

The RR was off of a parts bike that i tested for continuity. All checked out on the diode settings-----OK

The RR I suspected was faulty was reading continuity in both directions on both the black and red wires across all three yellow wires when it was removed from the bike.------Well that would be bad.  Test indicates some bad diodes. 

Would regular sewing pins be fine?----Yes.  Just stick a pin thru each wire so the pin contacts the copper wire inside the insulation.  Connect your volt meter to the pins.

 


 

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Charged up the battery overnight, read 13.15v when disconnected from bike.
Key on, engine off: 12.7v

Key on, engine on: 12.6v

With the engine running, I inserted the sewing pin at two points: before the red/black connector from the RR to the wiring harness, as well as after it.

Both gave me a voltage drop of 0.75 volts.

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