Jump to content

Questions About Lacing A New Rear Wheel/Rim

Recommended Posts

I've been hearing from a lot of people that an 18" rear wheel makes a huge difference in trail/enduro type riding. So, I have the original rear wheel off my 2001 Honda CR250 just sitting in the garage gathering dust. I was wondering if I could use that hub with an 18" rim? I thought I would just cut all of the existing spokes to get the hub out as fast as possible, and then since I have a lathe at the shop I was going to chuck up & smooth the hub to get rid of the casting marks, and then maybe powder coat it to make it durable, then lace it up with new spokes, in the new rim.

Will the factory hub work with an 18" rim? Obviously the hub is presently in the 19" factory rim. I have never done this before but I'm anxious to give it a shot and see if it is worth the hype that I'm hearing from everyone.

Can you guys recommend any decent spokes and colored nipples. I'd like to have the hub powder coated to match the color of the nipples if possible. The rim will probably be just a cheap Tusk rim and will be black to match the front Takasago. If anybody has any suggestions, I'd really appreciate hearing them. Being a "virgin" I'll take any good tips, or advise, that you guys care to offer. Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1st tip:  Put a steel 24" carpenter's square up against the rotor, then measure the offset to the edge of the rim, repeat on the sprocket side.

2nd tip:  Write this info down, and keep it handy for whenever you get to re-lacing the new wheel. (If you want the wheel to be centered in the same place.)

3rd tip: Take off enough spokes by hand to know which go where, usually shorter ones are on the outer holes of the hub. (Some lacing patterns have three different length spokes.)

Last tip: Take pics of the spoke pattern before you take it all apart..

Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for those tips! I will also You Tube some videos on the process before I begin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The spec for the offset on a crf250r is 45.5mm from the surface of the hub that the sprocket mounts to up to the edge of the rim. I am guessing it will be slightly different for the cr250r since it uses a wider rim than a crf250r but figured I would throw that number out there anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is an interesting video CJ, thanks for posting it. It definitely shows that there is more than one way to skin a cat. 

I appreciate the time he took to make the video. Having said that, I've never seen someone place all of the spokes then tie them off prior to starting to set them into the rim. This route, while illustrating the pattern ahead of time, is very time consuming and unnecessary. The rim nipple shoulders (ya, I just made that up) will show the direction they need to be fed from. He did mention several times that every fifth spoke hole creates the pattern which is key to building the wheel and will make sense to you, OP as you do this job. One could simply place all of the inner spokes on one side then flip the wheel and do all of the inner spokes on the opposite side. Follow with the outers on each side and done. No trying to figure out if they are crossing each other correctly, the rim did the ciphering for you. Oh, he showed you the anti-sieze. Use it.

Here's a pretty good video and yet another way to do it. He does both inner and outers then flips it. I do use the blocks like he does though, it makes it easier to get things lined up. 

https://search.yahoo.com/search?p=how+to+lace+a+motorcycle+wheel&fr=yfp-hrtab-900&fr2=p%3Afp%2Cm%3Asa&.tsrc=yfp-hrtab-900

There are a ton of videos online and threads on building wheels here on TT. Take your time and have fun with it, it's only hard the first time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, if I want to get fancy and go with red colored spoke nipples-what's the best way to do this? Should I just have the factory nipples powder coated along with the hub? Seems like that would be the easiest way but how will they look after truing the rim?? I bet they are going to get scratched up lacing/truing the rim.

Current wheels are BLACK RIMs (Excel Takasagos), RED hubs, silver spokes, and RED splined nipples. I guess for simplicity I should make the new rear rim match the front so it does not stand out, or look mis-matched. I will just get the spoke nipples powder coated along with the hub at the same time and do my best to keep them from getting too chewed up during the lacing & truing.

Anybody have any recommendations for powder coaters? I'm in the Houston area if that matters.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why aren't you just buying the hoop and spokes for the 18" and a set of red splined nipples? Your last post says 'current wheels, red hubs, nipples, etc.' Are you not reusing the hub?

I did a write up a long time ago doing exactly what you're proposing: 18" rim on my CR and powdercoating the hub. Enjoy!

 

Edited by Jrs Turn
Added link

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like fun. I have done many wheels.  The first few you should go slow tightening, and save your back with a cheap truing jig. 

Did you check with Warp Nine on colored nipples spoke kit?  A little pricy, but I can point you to a guy on here that discounts them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jr's Turn-AWESOME! That's the only word I can think of to describe the magic you are performing with your P/C set up! Great job my friend.

So, can I ship my stuff to you for powder coat? I sent you a PM.

Willy-no I did not check with Warp 9 yet. If they have the red anodized splined nipples, I will go that route.

To clear up any confusion-the rims I have on the bike right now are the 21/19 Takasagos. Black rims, red hubs, red nipples.

 

I have the original rims off the bike and that is the rim I will use to make the new 18" rear tire. I bought the Tusk Impact black 18" hoop, and spoke kit. I will P/C the factory Honda rear hub and spoke nipples to use when I assemble the new rear wheel. I will just keep the Takasago 19" rim for future use.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ordered the Tusk Impact rim and spoke kit.. Today the spokes and nipples came in a box, but no hoop yet. I thought they would have come together. Hopefully the hoop will come tomorrow. In the mean time I am going to disassemble the old rim and start getting it ready for P/C.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Were you able to locate a coater near you? Are you going to break down your original wheelset and make the hubs all match? More work for sure but worth it in my opinion, but then, I'm biased. :lol:

It's going to be nice working with new spokes, they will go together nicely. Don't forget the anti-seize, post ride re-tightening and to have fun learning something new!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jr's turn-I already have a Red Excel Talon Hub on the front so when I get the powder coat done on the rear hub, after I machine it smooth in my lathe, I'm going to get it P/C Dormant Red. Hopefully it will be close enough that you can't really tell.

Hoop came today! It was on my door step when I got home. No mistaking what it is as it says TUSK in large letters on the outside of the box.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update; I got my hub turned on my lathe and got it to a point where I almost left it in it's polished state. Not to pat myself on the back, but it came out great. That's the good news.

Now the bad news.. The only splined spoke nipples I could find will only work with the "special" spokes that are of the same thread pitch-made by the same company that makes the nipples. It seems crazy to me that all the spoke & nipple manufacturers make their own special thread pitch to stop the interchanging of their parts with other manufacturers. I get that they want to make more sales by selling BOTH the nipples AND a set of spokes, but something tells me that if I checked these nipples with different spokes from different manufacturers I would probably find that they will work. But, since I was told that the splined nipples I wanted will ONLY work with their spokes, I went ahead and ordered them as a kit. $129 + shipping later, and I'll have the spokes & nipples. Lets track some numbers... $135 for spokes & nipples, $85 for powder coating the hub, $127.99 for Tusk Impact rim & spoke kit (spokes that I CANNOT USE). Puts me at $347.99.. I could have bought the rim from Rocky Mountain for $299.00 NOT SMART on my part. The complete Tusk rim also comes with NEW sealed bearings, new seals, new anodized spacers, and stainless steel spokes, and a red hub, already installed. Yep, this is a case where buying complete would have saved a bunch of money.

If anyone needs a complete set of brand new spokes for an 18" rim, and also new aluminum nipples, I will gift them to anyone that wants to pay for shipping. I would think shipping would be less than $10 to most any US destination. First to ask/post gets them.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another update with pics;  20170429_165454.jpg

First rough pass on the lathe; 20170429_180410_1.jpg

A little polishing; 20170501_122652.jpg

New spokes & nipples arrived today; 20170504_182459.jpg

Just waiting on hub to come back from powder coat now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like the looks of those new spokes and nipples. Makes me want to lace a wheel.

Thanks for the PM. Let me know if you decide to send them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hub came back from powdercoat; 20170512_092635.jpg

20170512_092613.jpg

Starting the lacing; 20170512_175258.jpg

I got all the spokes installed but did not snap a pic. Now I have to true the wheel and then torque all spokes. I'm waiting on a Shinco 505 Hybrid/Cheater, and Tubliss set up for this wheel. Will post pics later.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×