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01 frame/00 engine

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Hey everybody, I'm new to the site as well as buying used bikes. A nice dairy farmer sold me a 2001 CR250r for a song. I knew it was too good to be true and it was. The engine tag reads 6211711 (2000 model engine).  My questions are these...

Is the air filter and piston different from 00 to 01? The reason I ask is that PO said he did the top end last year and had to know the engine year for the right piston. Being a 250 are all pistons the same?

What problems haunt the 00 engine?

Before I tell you what I paid, what's it worth. The bike itself is in good shape (what do I know) and the VIN is a 2001 on the frame. Tenth digit is a "1".

 

Please don't hammer me, I made a mistake and feel sick about it. I've wanted a bike all my life (46 years old) and I know it's not the end of the world. Having some info on the differences between engines would help when I talk with him next. BTW, the bike starts and runs. The PO doesn't know that I know the switch and will answer my calls. Thanks.

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I have an 01 and a 00 preceded it. If you ride them back to back you "may" notice some difference. The 01 has a wider overall powerband but both are very excellent. The 00 also has a Keihin, the 01 has a Mikuni carb. If you go to any OEM parts supplier and look at their parts numbers you will have your piston questions answered. Rocky Mtn, Partszilla, Honda Toledo East are my suggestions. If you look on the steering head there should be a permanent tag showing the year and ID number. If it is not there you bought from a crook. But either year is a great bike. Go forward and you will be ok. First thing I would do is be VERY sure about the engine number before ordering parts. Good luck.

Edited by YHGEORGE

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Thank you YHGEORGE. Honda verified the VIN as a 2001 CR250r. I knew I should have walked away (drove 1.5 hrs. to get there) when my gut was telling me to. I paid $1600 for a running bike that probably needs a lot of work. Wish you didn't tell me about the Keihin carb on the 2000 because this engine has a Mikuni. The engine tag starts with "62" so it's a 00 model. If it's just parts pieced together I might be in trouble. Again, I'm new to all of this and will make the best of it. What area of the site is best to post questions about my Frankenstein.

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2 hours ago, Fred29 said:

Hey everybody, I'm new to the site as well as buying used bikes. A nice dairy farmer sold me a 2001 CR250r for a song. I knew it was too good to be true and it was. The engine tag reads 6211711 (2000 model engine).  My questions are these...

Is the air filter and piston different from 00 to 01? The reason I ask is that PO said he did the top end last year and had to know the engine year for the right piston. Being a 250 are all pistons the same?

What problems haunt the 00 engine?

Before I tell you what I paid, what's it worth. The bike itself is in good shape (what do I know) and the VIN is a 2001 on the frame. Tenth digit is a "1".

 

Please don't hammer me, I made a mistake and feel sick about it. I've wanted a bike all my life (46 years old) and I know it's not the end of the world. Having some info on the differences between engines would help when I talk with him next. BTW, the bike starts and runs. The PO doesn't know that I know the switch and will answer my calls. Thanks.

Don't panic, it sounds like you got a decent bike. Care to share pictures? $1600 for a good-running 2000/2001 is a steal in California. The 2000/2001 was essentially the same bike with some minor differences, even the engine was similar and they both used the same piston (http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-13101-KZ3-505.html), so don't fret about that. Plus there are tons of aftermarket options. And yes they also use the same air filter. You can look up part numbers by checking parts schematics available on tons of websites including rmatvmc.com and partzilla.com

Like pretty much all cr250 engines the '00 is solid and you won't have to worry about cracking the exhaust bridge featured on the 02-07 engines. Also don't worry about the Mikuni, unlike what a lot of people say, it's totally a fine carb and can be tuned to work normally, but generally speaking they come very rich stock and are very sensitive to temperature changes, but look at it as a good learning experience.

Before I ride it I would google "what to do after buying a used dirt bike" and spend some time reading a few pages and threads on bike servicing. 

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Here are some pics. I covered up the graphics because they were all of a single small business that had nothing to do with this. Tell me what you think and if you need shots of certain areas tell me where. Thanks, the hole in my gut is shrinking.

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Very first piece to replace is the chain-case guard, The plastic piece is not needed but the metal piece is mandatory. I am speaking of a small curved piece of metal that fits just in front of the countershaft sprocket. It and the needed bolts are shown in the OEM parts lists/pics. If you don't use the plastic cover a couple shorter bolts will be needed or use some sort of spacer. Otherwise the bike looks like it will clean up well and hopefully be a good one. I would re=fresh all the oils and grease-grease-grease EVERY pivot point. I strongly suggest a Honda OEM service manual. I would get an 00 to fit the engine if you are sure of that. Everything else is basically the same.

Edited by YHGEORGE
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Thank George. I removed the sprocket guard for the pictures. It's back on. Any info on the carb? I just ran it and it's responsive. I've got a leak (unspent fuel???) coming from where the muffler begins. Is that called spooge? Runs right down the case seam.

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Thank George. I removed the sprocket guard for the pictures. It's back on. Any info on the carb? I just ran it and it's responsive. I've got a leak (unspent fuel???) coming from where the muffler begins. Is that called spooge? Runs right down the case seam.


yes that's normal for two strokes to have ​a little spooge but too much usually means rich jetting. find out what size jets you are running. spooge can also mean a bad oil seal, but the simple way to rule that out is by verifying that your oil is topped off, then ride it for a couple hours and go back to check if you lost any oil.
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Funny you say that. After I rode (5 mins) I drained the tranny and got just a hair under 800 ML, or 26 ozs. I refilled with the same amount of Honda Pro HP Trans 80W/85W. I don't know how I would check the oil, there is no sightglass. Did you mean drain it out after a long ride and measure? As for the jetting is there any number etched on the jet and does the whole carb come off to find out.

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1 minute ago, Fred29 said:

Funny you say that. After I rode (5 mins) I drained the tranny and got just a hair under 800 ML, or 26 ozs. I refilled with the same amount of Honda Pro HP Trans 80W/85W. I don't know how I would check the oil, there is no sightglass. Did you mean drain it out after a long ride and measure? As for the jetting is there any number etched on the jet and does the whole carb come off to find out.

This is what you do: put your bike up on a dirt bike stand. If you don't have one stop by your local harbor freight and pick one up for cheap. then remove the oil check bolt which ive circled in green. some oil should come out since you put about 50ml of extra oil in the case. let it drip out till there are almost no drips left then put the bolt back in. now go ride for a while, let it spooge up, then put it back on the bike stand and let it sit for a minute for the oil to settle, then remove the oil check bolt. if there is still a small bit of oil dripping out then you have no leak. if you have to add more oil for it to start dripping again then it may have a bad seal. But my money's on rich jetting. And yes the jets have the sizes printed on them. Here is the service manual, it should come in handyhttp://www.mediafire.com/file/j72jjahg2jf2k36/00_01_cr250r_official_honda_manual.zip

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A big thanks, man. My rototiller has the same way of checking the fluid, I should of thought about that.  Is that the power valve above the screw? If so it looks to have a new gasket. The manuals are a lifesaver.

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19 minutes ago, Fred29 said:

A big thanks, man. My rototiller has the same way of checking the fluid, I should of thought about that.  Is that the power valve above the screw? If so it looks to have a new gasket. The manuals are a lifesaver.

No, that's the water pump cover. The powervalve is higher, on the cylinder

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My 01 is still on the original crank seals. Honda has the best seals of any mfg in the business by far. I am still suggesting a paper service manual you can hold in your hands and study, huge amt of great info in there laid out is a logical fashion. And the original owners manual is a wealth of information for those intelligent enough to read it. There is a powervalve inspection cover on the opposite side of the cylinder. Its use is explained in both manuals. The manuals could be the best money spent on this bike especially since you are new to this stuff. I have been on Honda CR250's since '86 and will never be without both for my bikes.

Edited by YHGEORGE

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No argument here about the manuals. The PO said he was getting them tomorrow and would send them to me. Fingers crossed. I've kept myself busy restoring things (riding mower, snowblower, tiller) and really began to take pride in it the last couple years. This bike is a big step, but I'll do it. Thanks for the advice.

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Now were getting somewhere. Ok, the top end is off an 01 and the block is an 00. I still don't know about the carb. I'll look for numbers on it today. Thanks Chopper. What does FWIW mean?

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FWIW= for what it's worth. My theory is that the original motor had a bottom end failure such as a crank, or worse , a transmission but no damage to the top end. At that time a bottom end from a 2000 model was purchased and mated to your 01 top end and Mukuni carb.

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In that case, no worries. :thumbsup: Getting it for a song makes it even better. I take back what I said about the PO. :naughty:

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Right when things looked sunny, she won't kick over. Here's what I did. Removed the plastic because I saw a gap in the seal around the airbox. After fitting it back into the groove I cleaned the filter with gas, soap and water, dried for an hour,lightly oiled (my first time), replaced. The silencer guts were attached by a single bolt so I removed the end cap, removed the "holey pipe" and inspected it, replaced it (I think correctly, there was a fitment clink, put the endcap back on). She fired up first kick with LOTS of smoke. I dropped it in gear, stalled it, fired it up again, stalled it and now she won't respond. BTW, exactly how difficult is it to remove the spark plug? Is there some sort of spring between the boot and plug? The funny thing is that I want these problems now. Frustration will not get the best of me. You guys are a valuable asset and I can't thank you enough. So, things I might have screwed up... Filter and muffler. Something has been wrong all along with the carb. When I turn the petcock valve fuel will start to run out the overflow immediately. After it's running it stops. Float issue?

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