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Need help with xr650l transmission

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Installed a new countershaft, before putting the cases back together I ran through all 5 gears by rotating the shift drum by hand. Everything went smoothly.

 

After putting cases back together 3rd and 5th are only gears spinning freely. I'm afraid something isn't right, and plan on splitting the cases back open tomorrow after work. Anyone have any insight into what could be the problem.

 

 

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A gear could be installed backwards and is not allowing the dogs to engage properly. Or a thrust washer is missing? 

Did you install the gearshift drum cam (the star piece that goes below the clutch on the outside of the tranny) along with the stopper? Just to make sure you are "fully" in 3rd and 5th? 

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I had a similar issue when did my 2nd/5th and countershaft.  I didn't panic.  I don't think you should either.  

I put my engine in the bike and moved forward with completing the bike.  I ended up riding around in first a while and then second and then had to tap on the end of the shifter shaft with a brass punch to shake things around a bit a time or two.  Once I was able to coax it in and out of each gear a few times I never had another issue.  I attributed the issue to new "sharp edged" parts that needed used a few times.  

Of course it's a gamble but give yourself a little more credit, if you tried it and it worked then it will probably be fine.

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I have the trans in and out of mine several times. It never feels "right" when it's first buttoned up. I am meticulous about making sure that everything is right with the trans shafts, shifter drum, etc when installing it and then dont worry too much about it once I get the cases bolted together. You should be able to get to cycle through all of the gears, but you have to have everything turning when you run it through the gears, so it is clunky (at best). 

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I followed the Clymer manuel to a T when assembling the transmission. After reading your posts I feel ok moving forward. I'm going to put the motorcycle on a stand when it's put back together and try running the gears with extra care feathering the clutch. Fingers crossed I don't want to split the cases right back open.

Need to get this baby going I've been dying to ride!

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1494128389649.jpegEff!!! one on my cylinder cover bolts that threads into the cylinder head snapped during disassemble. Now that I'm going back together with this engine it's time to fight with this bolt. Drilled the center of the bolt, heated up the cylinder head around the bolt, tired and ez out. No dice. Decided to drill a little deeper to get more bite with the ez out and snap the bit broke off into the bolt. Priced a new cylinder head and am hoping someone on here has a cheaper solution for me. So any suggestions????

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8 hours ago, hunting405 said:

...any suggestions????

You've got a couple options...

The cheapest, free if you weld, and easiest is to weld a "flag" to it.  You can lay a washer down around the broken bolt to protect the aluminum seal surface if you're not confident enough to weld it unprotected.  I typically use a grade 3 (not hardened) flag bolt of one size smaller and a couple inches long with the threaded tip centered on the broken bolt and the body of the flag bolt laid over at about a 45° angle.  Once attached take a small ball pein hammer and begin to tap on the head of the flag bolt.  The idea is to tap lightly and get the broken bolt moving in small increments, back and forth, until it breaks loose and spins out.  It takes patience.  If it doesn't want to move at this point don't just break off the flag and give up.  Go get some paraffin wax (canning wax in the grocery store)  and heat the area and melt it around the bolt and allow it to wick down into the threads.  It just takes one little shot of wax to penetrate and coat the threads down in the hole.  No need to make a mess melting a bunch.  

If none of that works for you the other option is, of course, to take it to a machinist.  A carbide end mill will cut out the broken extractor and then machine the rest of the broken bolt out.

Edited by Hollerhead
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I just lay a nut down over the broken bolt, then hit the center with the welder, filll in the center of the nut. Works like a champ. I do it on automotive cylinder head s regularly.

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1 hour ago, pomoco said:

I just lay a nut down over the broken bolt, then hit the center with the welder, filll in the center of the nut. Works like a champ. I do it on automotive cylinder head s regularly.

That works great many times too.  

I do find that, when an extractor has already been broken, typically there is an issue with the threads that the thin wall of the bolt left after drilling can't handle and the nut usually wrings off taking the top of the stuck bolt with it.  

I think it is the combination of the vibration of the tapping, with help from the lubrication of the wax, that allows the flag bolt to break loose even more stubborn bolts.  I was show this method by some really good heavy equipment mechanics many years ago and have used it a bunch over the years.  Of course it doesn't always work either.  Galled threads can be tough.

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1 hour ago, hunting405 said:

Thanks I'll try that

TIG welding or oxy/fuel torch welding is the best bet.  A good hot MIG weld will do it but takes some care to not damage the head.  The goal is to heat the extractor enough to remove the brittleness from its original hardened condition so that it doesn't just snap off.

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Welded on a nut then put some penetrating oil on it. Used a hammer to tap the wrench.

Thanks for the help yall

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That works great many times too.  
I do find that, when an extractor has already been broken, typically there is an issue with the threads that the thin wall of the bolt left after drilling can't handle and the nut usually wrings off taking the top of the stuck bolt with it.  
I think it is the combination of the vibration of the tapping, with help from the lubrication of the wax, that allows the flag bolt to break loose even more stubborn bolts.  I was show this method by some really good heavy equipment mechanics many years ago and have used it a bunch over the years.  Of course it doesn't always work either.  Galled threads can be tough.

Have to add you were right about the bolt walls being thin 1st attempt broke off. I was able to see the drill bit after though so reweld onto the bit on 2nd attempt
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Transmission concerns warranted.... Finally got the xr back together this evening...I was thrilled when it fired right up, seeing how this is the first time I've ever gone any further than cleaning a carburetor on an engine. I took off in 1st no problem. Putted around for a minute then tried shifting into second and the rear tire locked up. Pulling the clutch in I rolled to a stop. I then from a start put it in third an eased the clutch out the xr started to roll I pulled the clutch in dropped it in second and eased out the clutch. The transmission locked up agin. This time from a stop i eased out in each gear finding that the only gears working properly are 1st and 3rd. When neutral light is on the transmission is still in 1st. I have no choice but to split the cases again... son of a transmission that sucks. Any suggestions or insight??

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Even though I have done dozens, hundreds? of XR builds I always spin the transmission through all of the gears once the case is together.

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4 minutes ago, mcma111 said:

Even though I have done dozens, hundreds? of XR builds I always spin the transmission through all of the gears once the case is together.

He will too , now.  ;)

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