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Ktm 450 no e-start

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I have a ktm 450 exc (plated dual sport) that is haveing a problem with not turning over with the e- starter it cranks over maybe once extremley slowly. It had this problem when I bought it stupid me figured it was just a battery. So far I have done new battery new starter motor (it was an aftermarket not factory) valve adjustment and checked to make sure I am getting full voltage through the starter solenoid. The only thing that I see that is out of the ordinary is that when I hit the starter button the voltage drops from 12 to 6 volts then when I let up it is back to 12. Kick starts just fine second or third kick. It also overheats when I spend to much time stoped at stop lights not sure if related or?????. I do have decent knowledge on mechanics both bikes and cars but this one has finally stumped me. Thanks for any help

Edited by Jeepcj5

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Check grounds. My 04 was having close to the same problem. Pulled the battery ground off the subframe and cleaned up. Worked alot better after that

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Just checked and cleaned grounds with no change. There is also a ground wire going directly from negative on the battery to the starter mount bolt.

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If you have a meter check for high resistance on the ground wires, cleaning the grounds is good but you must test the integrity of the wire.

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It could also be a bad battery, new doesn't always mean good....

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The starter seems to be really be pulling the voltage down excessively, unless you've cranked, cranked and cranked shouldn't drop more than about 11 volt, on a crank.  The battery ought to be holding higher than 12.8v in a rested charged state. Unless its some el cheapo

Have you tried to jump the battery, with either a non running car battery, or one of those little jump start gizmos?

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Where are you checking the voltage?  On the battery terminals directly, or somewhere else?  

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Ok worked on it again today. I did try to jump it off another car battery with no luck. There is little to no resistance on the ground so that is not the problem. Voltage was checked (and the same) at the battery the solenoid and at the motor. I also tried to put the cables directly from a car battery to the motor and that didn't work either nor did a different known good starter i took off another bike where it did decide to start twice but then wouldn't work again. I am thinking it might be something internal in the engine In a quick search I found some threads talking about an auto decompression wearing out but that was mostly on newer bikes, is there anything internally on this engine (hopefully easily fixed) that could cause this? Thanks for all the help, I am getting sick of kick starting this thing.

Edited by Jeepcj5

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if the auto decomp had issue, you'd definitely feel it on kick start.

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The starter torque limiters will sometimes start to slip preventing the estart from working, BUT the fact that your starter seems to be pulling tons of current makes me think your problem might likely be compression related.  As in maybe your compression release isn't working properly.  If you remove the spark plug and hit the starter button, does it spin over fast and does the voltage still drop on the battery?  

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9 hours ago, sirthumpalot said:

The starter torque limiters will sometimes start to slip preventing the estart from working, BUT the fact that your starter seems to be pulling tons of current makes me think your problem might likely be compression related.  As in maybe your compression release isn't working properly.  If you remove the spark plug and hit the starter button, does it spin over fast and does the voltage still drop on the battery?  

Yes it will spin fast with the spark plug removed. I did not check voltage at that time I can check that later.

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Rode it to work today and I am beginning to have problems with the kick start. So far I have installed (from another working bike.) A known good starter, starter solenoid battery (both with and without jumping off a car battery) the cables are new there is a ground going directly to the starter and at one point while using the jumper battery I even grounded directly to the mount bolt for the motor. At this point the only thing I haven't replaced is internal. Is there a good write up on what I need to replace and how to on fixing the auto decompression? Trying to decide if I want to tackle it myself or farm it out. Thanks.

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From reading your post I am having the exact same problem.  Took my 04 525 exc in for spring tune up.  got it back yesterday won't crank over with Estart.  Mechanic who worked on it said replace the battery.  Did that with better kick ass battery YTZ7s.  Same thing.  He won't call me back and I can't get my bike back to him.  Mine will crank like one time really slow like you are saying.  When i try to kick it it pretty much locks up the kickstart there is a ton of pressure preventing me from kicking it.   It was never like that before the tuneup.  The mechanic did valve adjustment so maybe that is related and the decompression sounds likely.  I have no idea how to deal with that however.  I have actually got it to start once but i had a batter charger (on the new batter).  I have to push the estart and hold it and it might crank 2-3 times and caught once and started.    Then died and can't get it to do that again.  Now I can't kick it or estart it.   It also makes a whining sound if I hold the estart button.  I checked the obvious things like the terminals, cables etc.  I  was like night and day.  It was fine never had a problem like this in 2 years and now just won't crank.  I don't have volt meter but Im sure mine is dragging down as well.  I can just hear it.  

Anything I find out I will let you know.  if you have anything else, let me know  thanks

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What about the Sprag clutch?  Just a thought....

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Before you tear into the bike, make sure your exhaust valves are set at TDC- not the overlap stroke to .005 or .006". If they are loose, it disables the auto decompressor and the bike is a bear to even bump start. DJH has pinned resource info on our dinosaur RFS bikes on the orange website.

Not knocking the shops, but it's easy to be on the wrong stroke, set the valves to spec which makes them loose enough to disable the ADC. Don't ask me how I know.

Edited by Burnrider

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Thank you all for the help I think I have found the problem.

My mechanic is a idiot

Went in and checked the valves and the were .05 out adjusted properly and it is working. apparently using the wrong feeler gauge will do this. will report Back after a few rides that it is working still.

On 5/4/2017 at 4:53 PM, JKetchup said:

From reading your post I am having the exact same problem.  Took my 04 525 exc in for spring tune up.  got it back yesterday won't crank over with Estart.  Mechanic who worked on it said replace the battery.  Did that with better kick ass battery YTZ7s.  Same thing.  He won't call me back and I can't get my bike back to him.  Mine will crank like one time really slow like you are saying.  When i try to kick it it pretty much locks up the kickstart there is a ton of pressure preventing me from kicking it.   It was never like that before the tuneup.  The mechanic did valve adjustment so maybe that is related and the decompression sounds likely.  I have no idea how to deal with that however.  I have actually got it to start once but i had a batter charger (on the new batter).  I have to push the estart and hold it and it might crank 2-3 times and caught once and started.    Then died and can't get it to do that again.  Now I can't kick it or estart it.   It also makes a whining sound if I hold the estart button.  I checked the obvious things like the terminals, cables etc.  I  was like night and day.  It was fine never had a problem like this in 2 years and now just won't crank.  I don't have volt meter but Im sure mine is dragging down as well.  I can just hear it.  

Anything I find out I will let you know.  if you have anything else, let me know  thanks

Try doing a valve adjustment yourself it isn't that hard if you take your time to understand what is going on. I found a video on YouTube brought it out to the bike and paused between each step, backing up a few times to ensure I understood completely.

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Don't pay someone to work on your bike....like what's being said.  Take your time, do some research, piece of cake and it's done right.

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Ok so I'm having the exact same issue but my bike is an 05 525 exc. I only just bought my bike, the previous owner said he had never done a valve adjustment so I thought oil change and valve adjustment were due. Coming from 2 stroke bikes this was my first valve adjustment. Before I started the bike e-started well 70% of the time. Sometimes the starter was slow like the battery was &%$#@!ed and I'd have to kick it, but that was easy enough. I watched countless YouTube videos and even had the haynes manual when I done the adjustment. I found tdc (I thought) and inserted the crank screw it seated nicely. There was no movement in the lifters so I assumed the were just super tight. So I carried on and adjusted them. Upon next start up the e-started wound over once or twice really slowly, so I preceded to kick start and what a bastard to start now. sometimes the kick start would just stop as if it was hitting on something. Once I got it started it was really rattly like the adjustment was way out. So I tried again but without using the crank screw because she's full of fresh oil. So I just cycled it through to where I assumed tdc was using a screw driver to ensure piston was at top, and making sure I wasn't in the overlap. That's tdc right? Anyway not so rattly now but still a bitch to start. No way will it start with the leky start. What am I doing wrong?

 

 

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