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So I'm thinking about adding a set of Rox Risers  to my Beta and I have two specific questions.

First - Will the 2-inch risers require me to lengthen cables?  I want to avoid doing this, so if  I have to go with the 1 and 3/4 inch risers that's fine.  Just not sure how much extra cable length I have to work with.

Second - Will the Rox Risers require me to buy an additional top bar mount?  The stock top clamp for the Beta bars don't look like they will go over the Rox Risers since it bulges out at the sides.  See the pics below where the X's are to understand what I'm talking about.  The first pic is of my current stock setup and the second pic is of the Rox Risers on a KTM.  Will I need to purchase the top clamps that are shown with the X on the KTM?  Does anyone have a pic of their Rox Riser setup to compare? 

 

P1020918.JPG

Rox Riser.PNG

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You don't have to change the cables, but you will have to re-route them

The top bar clamp will not work without modification. Lots of cheap bar clamp tops to choose from (KTM) on ebay....or cut the stock one.

Beware the Rox riser shown is 2" rise, which is a huge amount. When in the straight up position (relative to earth) they are putting the bars about 1.85" higher than stock.

If you run them as shown in the second picture, when you turn the bars full lock, you will not be able to keep your hand on the outside bar; it will be too far away....

I've tried every combination of bar risers, and have stuck with the BRP submount, with an additional .65: riser underneath, and stock bars (6'4"). Combined with an exta tall seat, it is perfect for me.

 

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2 hours ago, Ocaptainmycaptain said:

Thanks Krannie.  Is it possible to run a BRP submount as a riser without actually using the Scotts stabilizer? 

Of course.

This pic show what to do, but not how to do it....you should use the correct adaptor....that fills in the gap...

20170430_075104[1].jpg

Edited by Krannie McKranface

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48 minutes ago, HeavyRotation said:

20170430_200053.jpg.495e6c0c07a498392aad924bf472e79e.jpg Ok, so here's a picture of my set up. It keeps coming loose. I've tightened the bolt from the bottom twice in two days. I'm super sketched out, should I loctite the zinc bolt into the aluminum riser? Thanks.

 

 

On your set up, I believe the bottom riser bolts to the triple clamp, or through the triple clamp. If it is a steel bolt into aluminum, do NOT lock tite, use anti-sieze.

If it is a bolt and nut, the nut should be a metal locking type, or use blue lock tite.

The bar cap clamp then bolts through the middle riser into the bottom riser, steel bolt to aluminum. That should NOT be locktited, that should have anti-sieze.

It MUST have anti-seize.... or it will get corroded in eventually, and be nearly impossible to remove....

While you are at it, ditch the allow one-way vent valve before it fails. They suck in dirt, and jam shut, causing fuel starvation....

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I have a set of Boeno risers I bought to clear a damper and never used, I was going to list for sale, there red.

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On your set up, I believe the bottom riser bolts to the triple clamp, or through the triple clamp. If it is a steel bolt into aluminum, do NOT lock tite, use anti-sieze.
If it is a bolt and nut, the nut should be a metal locking type, or use blue lock tite.
The bar cap clamp then bolts through the middle riser into the bottom riser, steel bolt to aluminum. That should NOT be locktited, that should have anti-sieze.
It MUST have anti-seize.... or it will get corroded in eventually, and be nearly impossible to remove....
While you are at it, ditch the allow one-way vent valve before it fails. They suck in dirt, and jam shut, causing fuel starvation....

It bolts through the triple, I've tightened the bolt from below twice in two days, I'm thinking maybe the middle riser needs replaced, I don't want to twist that bolt any harder than I already have but I thought maybe I'd use some blue loctite on it as a last try, can always sawzall it off.

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