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'09 200 XC-W - Stripped Oil Drain Bolt and Questions

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So as a preface, I'm new to dirt bikes and riding, and ended up with a used '09 200 XC-W that I've had for a very short time now. I decided to go ahead and do an oil change, and of course found that the previous owner was kind enough to pre-strip the drain bolt on the right side with the clutch cover. The left side bolt came off with no problems, but I think he temporarily cemented the smaller bolt in place since it doesn't really thread back in correctly, because the casing is stripped, not the bolt. So, I've done some research here and think I will go ahead and use a Time-sert, despite it being pretty expensive compared to a Heli-coil. In this case I think the time-sert being a solid piece will help prevent any future leakage. I just have a couple questions regarding this process...

 

1. Do I need to loctite the time-sert? I was thinking red 272 but I'm not certain yet.

2. Does the stripped side actually come off without removing the engine? It looks like I just need to remove the coolant hose, clutch cover, and kickstart and then just remove one big cover piece (while keeping any gaskets intact)? If I can then I'd prefer to just have the cover off than to have drill shavings in my transmission.

3. Do I actually need to use the smaller clutch-side drain bolt when draining the oil or can I just use the larger, magnetic, flywheel-side bolt?

 

Thanks for any help, kind of disappointing that I ruined my Sunday ride but I didn't want to do any temporary repairs if I can just fix it for sure and be done with it. 

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Glue it back in and just use the magnetic (flywheel) side, measure 700cc and dump it in when chainging the oil, don't use theoil level check bolt either.

 

It's common knowledge that any oil check/drains on the clutch side aren"t worth using...or fixing.

 

If it were mine I wouldn't spend the time to time-sert it.  Generally speaking I am very particular about my bikes, and fix things, but that wouldn't seem worth it to me.

 

Congrats on the bike, 200's are awesome. 🙂

Edited by poldies4
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I wasn't sure if it was something worth doing as a permanent fix or if I should just use a little bit JB weld and make a note never to use it again. Like I said, it still kind of threads and I can't pull it out with pliers, but it doesn't tighten. 

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If it is the 8mm check bolt then just JB weld it and let it sit for a couple of days. Like mentioned, drain and refill with 700 cc's and you are good to go.

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Oh, that's just a check bolt? That would make sense since it's smaller without the magnet then. After considering the teardown needed for that one bolt vs what it does, I will just try to seal it in place and make a note to avoid it for now. Thanks for the help guys.

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This is my method for fixing this COMMON issue with ktm's.

Buy TWO quarts of ATF, Don't matter want kind because you are gonna waste it any way.

One size larger stainless Allen cap screw (NOT BOLT!) with COURSE threads. You can use metric or SAE, don't matter since you are modifying the case and cap-screw.

Find someone with a decent shop with a grinder and corresponding thread cutting tap. 

Once you get your capscrew, resize it to the DEPTH of the OEM plug, get a new copper washer that fits the new screw.

Now here comes the part that has to be followed exactly!

Insert a good quality FOAM ear plug into the check fill hole PAST the depth of the check screw with small needle nose pliers. See if the tap will thread WITHOUT binding in the hole. If the tap binds you will need to use the proper size pilot drill bit and resize the hole. Make sure when you resize the hole that the drill bit doesn't bind or come off square. (If you are not confident in the is process, have a buddy who uses a drill all the time.)

Then tap the hole being sure to go two turns forward and one turn back so you don't break the tap or crack the case. Use the leaking crank case oil to lube the tap.

Once you are satisfied with the depth and feel of the treads remove the tap and tip the bike towards you and slowly pull the ear plug out while observing the removal of the filings. Once you do this DO NOT reinsert anything in the the hole except for the new plug when you are done.  Allow the oil to drain out fill hole while floating out any filings. Keep the bike tipped and begin to pour in the AFT. Once you are satisfied with the removal of the filings. 

Drain the crankcase and fill with the other ATF. Run the bike till its hot and drain again and ill with your favorite crank fluid. 

GOOD LUCK!

 

 

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