Clutch slippage and drag???

[matgaz]

I recently installed a clever lever from MWME and I am getting the following issues:

1. Clutch dragging, bike on level ground, warm engine. Pull in lever (disengage clutch), put it in first gear, me off the bike, bike creeps forward. 
2. Clutch slipping at higher rev, full throttle.

In the fall I put Motul Transoil 10w40 (it used to have Amsoil Dirt 10w60 sythetic) then put the bike away for winter. Before even starting the engine, I installed the Clever lever and eyeballed the plunger travel.

Issue #1, I think can be easily fixed by increasing plunger travel (small screw).

Issue #2 is puzzling. I fail to see how it would be related to the clutch lever not fully disengaging the clutch, it's the complete opposite of issue #1 . I have no reason to suspect a bad batch of Motul transoil.

Am I missing something?

[bikesandcars]

Try some type F atf. It helped my xtrainer creeping issues.

[Danceswithtrees]

There's two adjustments on the clever lever, one to adjust the plunger travel and the other to adjust how far out the lever returns to at rest.  Make sure the stop on the lever is allowing it to fully release from the master cylinder.

[matgaz]

10 minutes ago, Danceswithtrees said:

There's two adjustments on the clever lever, one to adjust the plunger travel and the other to adjust how far out the lever returns to at rest.  Make sure the stop on the lever is allowing it to fully release from the master cylinder.

I'll try that. Is there a way to tell if it is fully disengaging, with the engine not running and not under mid-full throttle?

How would clutch slippage be induced by the clutch springs not being allowed to fully expanded and yet at the same time still exerting pressure when they are compressed by the slave cylinder?

 

[Danceswithtrees]

2 hours ago, matgaz said:

I'll try that. Is there a way to tell if it is fully disengaging, with the engine not running and not under mid-full throttle?

How would clutch slippage be induced by the clutch springs not being allowed to fully expanded and yet at the same time still exerting pressure when they are compressed by the slave cylinder?

 

If the stop is adjusted too far out, bringing the lever closer to the bars, it's possible it's not fully releasing from the master cylinder plunger(causing slippage) while at the same time not having enough travel to fully disengage the clutch(causing drag).  It takes a little fiddling to get these just right.  

[FORMA MOTO]

Technically speaking, there should be some play bewteen the plunger and the master cylinder to account for hydralic expansion.

Without that, the chances for slippage to up greatly.

[OMEGAENDURO]

I've left just the tiniest amount of free play prior to engagement to try an avoid that exact thing. It doesn't bother me and you can feel the engagement point. 

[matgaz]

I backed out the adjuster so the lever is all the way out and tightened the plunger screw until the slack was taken out. Definitely not where I'd like the lever but if that solves my issues, I'll move the lever closer to the bar until the issues come back.

Of course its raining for the rest of the week ?

[cachunko]

21 hours ago, bikesandcars said:

Try some type F atf. It helped my xtrainer creeping issues.

My 300RR has the feeling like the clutch doesn't completely disengage.  It sounds like it's a pretty common nuance with these bikes.  I've also heard other people talk about mixing regular oil with type F tranny fluid.  What ratio of type F to regular oil do people typically use?  I wouldn't mind trying it to see if it makes any difference.  50/50?

[bikesandcars]

100%. It won't hurt, it's so cheap you can run it and change it if you don't like it

[matgaz]

On 5/1/2017 at 4:55 PM, Danceswithtrees said:

If the stop is adjusted too far out, bringing the lever closer to the bars, it's possible it's not fully releasing from the master cylinder plunger(causing slippage) while at the same time not having enough travel to fully disengage the clutch(causing drag).  It takes a little fiddling to get these just right.  

*UPDATE* That was it!

Here is what I did:

I took the lever off and turned the reach adjustment screw all the way in and removed the plunger screw out.

I then re-installed the lever and adjusted the plunger screw until there was no more slack.

Waited for the engine to warm up a bit and did a couple of pulls in 2nd and 3rd, no more slip!

I then moved the lever again closer to the bar and things are still good. I'll probably move it again closer but for right now everything is A-OK!

Creep also seems to be gone.

Cliff's notes: Issue was not with the lever or the trans oil but with the installer