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Getting my bike back on the road

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I finally just went to get my motorcycle license and got the bug again to fix up my DRZ which i've dropped too many times. I'm going to have to ask a bunch of questions so instead of making a million threads I figured I would just throw them all in here. Its a battle scarred 2014.

So far I did a DRC Edge Tailight, DRC foot pegs, ebay shifter, TBR muffler, RSC clutch lever and thats pretty much it for now.

 

Future plans,

Zeta Quick Turn Throttle

New Grips

ZETA handguards

ZETA rubber killers

Find the 3 finger RSC clutch lever

Stainless brake line up front

Do something with the headlight

Tires

 

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Edited by SKIPPY PB

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Today I tried to install a ZETA quick turn throttle but im not sure if I did it right. It has very little play and seems to open almost immediately. Adjusting the barrel on the return cable it stays about the same, except it the loosest position it gets stuck WOT. Both cables have decent movement at the carb itself but the opening cable seems to be pretty tight. Is that ok?

 

Also should I have put some grease or something on the handle bar before putting the aluminum throttle on there?

 

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We'll I think its working alright even though the return cable has a lot of slack. I bought some pro taper waffles and put them on with some grip glue. Holy crap that glue sucks, its set time has to be 2 seconds. I didn't think it would be that tough and got it all over my fingers. What a pain, the soft pro taper grips are really hard to get on so I had to rip them off while the glue was drying and then wrestle them on. Then lift the edge and put some dabs of glue in there.

 

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I read some other commentary that the grips will make the throttle stick with the zeta quick turn throttle. And I think I found out why, i'm planning on getting hand guards so I poked a hole in the end of the grips then tried to cut out the middle. At first I did it with a knife so it was a little sloppy but the little pieces of rubber left seemed to get stuck against the bars and keep the throttle WOT. So I rolled the end over and used some cutters to get a closer cut and it hasn't stuck since. Hopefully no glue got underneath the throttle tube.

Edited by SKIPPY PB

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Skip, i would be putting grease in the throttle tube, but i hate aluminum tubes. Plastic ones require way less maintenance. Can be run dry and can take a little dirt getting in there, not the aluminum one's.

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13 hours ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

You will need to slide the throttle assembly in a little so the tube doesn't drag on the hand guards

 

Okay, yeah I moved it out a bit to make getting the grip on easier. I've always likeds softer waffle grips but thats really only because they feel better when you have no gloves on, but boy where those a pain to get on.

 

11 hours ago, bucket list said:

Skip, i would be putting grease in the throttle tube, but i hate aluminum tubes. Plastic ones require way less maintenance. Can be run dry and can take a little dirt getting in there, not the aluminum one's.

 

I didn't do that yet but when I first put the tube on the bars looked pretty clean but moving the tube it felt as if there was some dirt in there binding against the bar. To be honest I don't really like this zeta throttle, it doesn't have any channels for the cables like the plastic can. The only reason I got it was because the stock one had way to much movement so I couldn't go from closed to WOT without re positioning my hand. Maybe i'll look into that R6/R1 tube mod people do.

 

I also got some chain lube, is it a bad idea to try and clean the chain up a little bit with some automotive brake cleaner. I bought a can of spray cleaner too.

 

I also want to take the wheels off so I can do the axle sliders. I'm a little scared to do that though since ive never taken the wheels off before. Can the alignment effect high speeds like 80/90 mph?

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3 hours ago, SKIPPY PB said:

 

Okay, yeah I moved it out a bit to make getting the grip on easier. I've always likeds softer waffle grips but thats really only because they feel better when you have no gloves on, but boy where those a pain to get on.

 

 

I didn't do that yet but when I first put the tube on the bars looked pretty clean but moving the tube it felt as if there was some dirt in there binding against the bar. To be honest I don't really like this zeta throttle, it doesn't have any channels for the cables like the plastic can. The only reason I got it was because the stock one had way to much movement so I couldn't go from closed to WOT without re positioning my hand. Maybe i'll look into that R6/R1 tube mod people do.

 

I also got some chain lube, is it a bad idea to try and clean the chain up a little bit with some automotive brake cleaner. I bought a can of spray cleaner too.

 

I also want to take the wheels off so I can do the axle sliders. I'm a little scared to do that though since ive never taken the wheels off before. Can the alignment effect high speeds like 80/90 mph?

Yes the alignment is important, but I've found the marks on the axle blocks are usually very close, just when your tightening the axle, push your knee on the tire and pull up on the chain to seat the axle blocks against the adjusters and make sure the the marks are equal side to side.

Brake cleaner can be very dry, maybe harm the O-rings, use the spray chain cleaner or kerosene.

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Or wipe down with a rag saturated with wd40 then wipe dry and apply your favorite chain lube.

I measure the axle blocks on each side with dial calipers and adjust so they are as even as possible.I straddle the bike to put weight on the rear,hold the brake and final torque the axle nut.

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Okay cool, I guess I didn't really think this one through yet. Originally I was thinking since the sliders are a different size then the OE blocks I would have to move the things and I wouldn't know where too. But I guess I can just line them up making them even and then adjust that point based on the slack on the chain. And then that makes sense how you put pressure on it to make sure its completely seated. Nice, I guess I can change the tire aswell then.

 

I have one problem though, one of the OE sliders sheared off when I took a spill so now I have to fish whats left of it out of the axle. Thats going to be fun, lol.

 

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Anyone know where I can get these mirrors? Solo racer used to have them but they've been out of stock every time ive looked in the past year. Want an underbar mirror that looks halfway decent like these that doesn't vibrate like the OE mirrors do.

 

drz400sm-mirrors-2.gif

 

 

Anyone have any recommendations on tires, I still have the stock tires on right now and I think i'll change them when I do the axle sliders. Not really sure what to get, I live in the north east and just mess around on the street and will probably try to get to a few track days but its already late to be undecided on if im going this year. I can't find any Dunlop Q2's, how are the conti attack sm tires?

I'm not really concerned with mileage just the way its going to get heat cycled as a street tire on extended mile runs. Was thinking doing 120/70 and 150/60, any recommendations?

Edited by SKIPPY PB

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Are those fat bars? Mine tapers right near the bend and i'm not sure how much room there is before that bend. So they buzz or shake at all? I was thinking about doing the rubber killers, for 14 bucks I could take a gamble.

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All '07 - present SM have Renthal fat bars as oem equipment. Yours is no different.

The zeta rubber killers work good and give good feedback with no noted increase in vibration,to me anyway.

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Those don't look like the stock renthals though or is the brace added for a foam pad, and it looks like the right mirror is mounted at the fat part?

 

What tires are on there by the way, that looks like a dunlop in the back.

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I have to wait a few more days for my card to roll over before I get some more parts on the way. Looking at taking the rear wheels off I measured the adjusters and it looks like the rear tire is off a bit. Its say 33.xx mm on one side and 34/35.xx mm on the other. There could be a little margin for error on the measuring since there isn't much for a referance point on the swing arm and I was holding the mic in the air but sprocket side definitely seems to be closer to the middle of the bike. Now i've dropped the bike a few times so I don't know if its always been like this or it got tweaked from the spills.

 

I think im going to order a DRC lift stand in a couple days when my card rolls over. Max weight limit is 330 lb's on that guy. Which should be ok for the DRZ, even though I don't like staying close to the limit on cheap stands.  Anyway is there anything else as compact as the DRC lift with a similiar design that might be uprated a tad bit for hopefully not too much more coin. Couple friends have some cafe racers that are 4-600 lbs. It's be nice to get those in the air aswell but that seems like a long shot.

 

Also going to grab some handguards was originally going to grab the cheapest zeta ones but now im thinking zeta pro with the side triple clamp mount. Anyone have any experiences with those mounts? After taking off some sliders after spills I fear the U-clamp on the bar is just going to twist in a spill. However on asphalt im not sure the triple clamp option is much better, has anyone broken there triple clamp during a spill due to the handguards. My bike seems to hit the pavement pretty hard when I take a spill.

 

One more question, how does putting a 150/60 in the rear effect the drz compared to the stock 140/70? I think im going with the contiattack sm tires but have been debating between the stock size and the 150. The stock tires didn't get heat cycled properly off the bat and never really worked well for me. So i dont think I can really comment on the stock sizing just yet. It felt as if the rear could use a little more rubber but i dont know.

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Are those fat bars? Mine tapers right near the bend and i'm not sure how much room there is before that bend. So they buzz or shake at all? I was thinking about doing the rubber killers, for 14 bucks I could take a gamble.

Sorry for the delay.

I have mine on 7/8 bars.

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I have to see how much space I have on the handle bars before it tapers. I know I had to move the clutch in when I went to the RSC clutch before but im going back to the OEM clutch so I may have some room.

 

Is it common for the crankcase vent oil separators to sweat on the DRZ? I've dropped mine a few times on pavement and i'm not sure if the PCV is damaged or if that is normal for these bikes. I threw one in the order of OEM parts I just did, just because i'm sure before I sell the bike i'll use it. I'll get a picture of it tomorrow. Looks like its either to hoses at the box or faults in the plastic on the box itself. 

 

So far I ordered a replacement OEM master cylinder, OEM parts to get the clutch and brake levers back up to spec, SS brake lines, some zeta handguards, a DRC lift stand, cyclops led bulb and a front fender. So I should be able to get some work done real soon.

 

Where can I find torque specs for the DRZ, and good diagram books. I wonder how much the factory service manual goes for.

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Question, my bike seems to have trouble holding idle at times. If I give the throttle a little blip from idle sometimes it will die. I was questioning the RSC clutch lever and zeta throttle I installed, but knowing cars it kind of act's like a vacuum/air leak.

 

I dropped my bike a couple times and now am noticing my oil separator is pretty grimy. Is it normal for them to sweat like this? Thinking I potentially messed with the CCV system in one of the spills.

 

I don't know that much about carbs but other factors are the bike has done a lot of sitting and gas/fuilds aren't that fresh. Theirs no off position on the fuel valve either. Idk if this carb has a float that can get stuck like my YZ did.

 

 

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Also can I realign the front forks by loosening the bolts but leaving the top triple tight so the shocks don't fall thru?

Edited by SKIPPY PB

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Got a bunch of parts

 

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Does anyone know where I can get OEM connectors and terminals for the front turn signals? I want to keep my OE stuff functional.

 

 

 

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I got my bike on the road and put some miles on it while tweaking little things here and there. From the first ride I have been noticing that it has trouble idling at times. Bike starts up and will idle fine a lot of the time but sometimes will just die randomly. For instance,

 

Bike warmed up no problems for a long while i'll stand there with it idling fine and then I pull in the clutch and it dies. But this is an intermittent problem, sometimes its fine.

Sometimes i'll be coasting up to a stop in gear then go to pull in the clutch while rolling and it will die.

Sometimes it holds idle fine and when I go to take off and start releasing the clutch as soon as I give it some throttle it dies.  

 

The engine seems to be running fine when i'm on the go. Can't really say 100% everything else is perfect but seems to be running alright, only thing I notice is that maybe it backfires a little more then I remember the stock exhaust doing so when off the throttle. I probably already stated but the bikes a 2014 and hasn't been really used at all in a couple years so I am doing a little refresher on things. Seeing that the bike has been down, I think the oil/air separator is leaking. I have a new one but haven't put it in yet. Would it make sense that a cracked oil separator would be messing with the A/F ratio the bike is getting OR that it is allowing engine oil to get sucked in by the carb. Possibly giving me these issues, maybe gumming up the needles and such.

 

2860B6B9-2D31-43B5-8215-031186A67D90_zps

 

 

I also haven't cleaned the stock foam air filter ever but finally got some stuff to clean it. Only thing im unsure of is what kind of grease do I use to mount the filter to the air box? Any grease?

 

 

Edited by SKIPPY PB

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