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Issue with E-line stator

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 I got what I believed was a good deal on a used E-line stator. It is very complete so I decided to buy it. I have a couple of issues as I've mocked it up. Please forgive my terminology as electrical components are my weak point. 

First of all, the 3 output posts that face inward have obviously contacted the weighted ring on the stock flywheel of the PO bike. When I mock it up on my bike, they appear dangerously close. Could this cause them to arc, or short out?

Secondly, when I try to center the stator to the flywheel it is impossible. The whole unit needs to move down and back more than the holes allow. Even if I could move the assembly to center it, that would move the three posts closer to the stock flywheel ring.

Any help is appreciated. I am pretty frustrated with the fit and probably should've been content with my total loss battery set up for what I'm doing.

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Congrats on the E-line score! :thumbsup: A very popular item; too bad this one is not playing fairly...

Flywheel contact with any part of the stator is not good, and would definitely cause an issue.

Can you add more pics? It's tough to visualize the mounting problem. Did the E-line unit come with a flywheel?

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Maybe someone has the hodgkins setup direction that could share that info as his systems are pretty identical and directions on install are very well though out. You will need some kind of small shim spacers to square out the stator holder from the flywheel rotor. 

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Yes, it came with the flywheel, spacer washer, wave washer and nut. Even came with a wiring harness and rectifier (I think that's what it is). 

So basically when the e-line flywheel is mounted, it doesn't sit centered in the stator's opening. I will mock it up tonight and add a pic but it will be tough to see that.

In the pictures that I did post, I was trying to show where the output posts or tabs are so close to my stock flywheel. 

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1 minute ago, Gary YZDOC said:

Maybe someone has the hodgkins setup direction that could share that info as his systems are pretty identical and directions on install are very well though out. You will need some kind of small shim spacers to square out the stator holder from the flywheel rotor. 

Yes, that would be helpful. It would be great to know the shim thickness also.

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7 minutes ago, zeke383 said:

Yes, that would be helpful. It would be great to know the shim thickness also.

Pretty sure they are .005, .010, .015 and 4 of each. Ill let you know for sure when I'm home at 4pm PST. I take it you are the guy that bought this system from the other TT member that said he had one on for a short time? 

Edited by Gary YZDOC
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Thanks @Yzbrian03 :thumbsup:

heres where I'm at. I put a dial tone indicator on the E-line rotor and found you can tap that around a little as you spin the engine, assuring the rotor is centered. Then with 2 bolts snugged up lightly, I was able to tap the main body around,centering it while checking with feeler gauges. Sooo....judging by the instructions and what I've done, I should be good.

My only concern at this point is where the previous owner's flywheel contacted those output posts on the stator. My flywheel appears to miss but I don't like the bare metal possibly creating an arc or short. What type of coating is on these things? Some type of epoxy or something? I'm talking about the rusty brown stuff.

Edited by zeke383
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I had to (ever so slightly) make the mounting holes bigger.. Then (without the outer cover)you mount the stator with the bolts just snug and using a feeler gauge and a rubber hammer , Keep making slight alignment adjustments till you get equal clearence bettween the rotor and stator all around .. Just be patient... then of course tighten everything

Edited by Snider
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How much slop does that rotor have? You say that it can be moved around? I machine my nuts so that there is .001 to .002 slip fit. Maybe the nut is sacked out or maybe the rotor has some slop. Both can be fixed. Someone has already mentioned that you could drill the holes out ever so slightly to give more adjustment. Sometimes on these older units the holes get a little beat up and don't allow a lot of movement. Do they all appear to be fairly round? Maybe run a drill thru them to take out any burrs.

I have rebuilt/refurbed a few older E-lines and they have looked much worse than this and function just fine. They are very robust.  

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Good, you got to it. I asked Steve if he minded me posting his directions and waited for response, he said it was cool, glad it's up. Thanks Steve! 

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Hey you YZ guys, does it look like zeke883 has a flywheel weight on his? or maybe it a GTYR weighted one? Seems like it is sticking up past the lip where most of the stock ones you have to use the big washer as a spacer. I think that's why the windings are so close to the flywheel.

 

Edited by hodgkins

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@hodgkins that picture is deceiving, that is a stock flywheel and the ring protrudes even though it appears recessed. Thanks for the info. As far as the play between the nut and the flywheel, I could only tap it around .003. Not a lot but something I did notice with the dial indicator.

What about those bare spots, should I put something on them?

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The bare spots will be fine. You could recover them but not sure what they use on them. The copper is bathed in a clear epoxy. If you ever need a new nut let me know. That rotor is worth it's weight in gold. The windings can be rewound or you can buy a new single phase (2wire) direct from Electrexworld.

 

Steve

Edited by hodgkins
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1 hour ago, hodgkins said:

How much slop does that rotor have? You say that it can be moved around? I machine my nuts so that there is .001 to .002 slip fit. Maybe the nut is sacked out or maybe the rotor has some slop. Both can be fixed. Someone has already mentioned that you could drill the holes out ever so slightly to give more adjustment. Sometimes on these older units the holes get a little beat up and don't allow a lot of movement. Do they all appear to be fairly round? Maybe run a drill thru them to take out any burrs.

I have rebuilt/refurbed a few older E-lines and they have looked much worse than this and function just fine. They are very robust.  

rotor (rotating thing) has no slop but the housing holding the stator(stationary thing)  has a bit of movement to center it over the rotor..

Edited by Snider

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