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Loctite?

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The last guy that owned the bike I just bought stripped the bolt I use to check the transmission oil level. Oil was leaking so I was just wondering if I could use the red loctite to put the bolt in. I never use it I just measure it by what it says on the side. Also, wouldn't I never need to use it since it doesn't connect the case to the engine. It's just there for measuring purposes. So should I use the red loctite?

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Red loctite is a glue. Its purpose is to increase the friction coefficient to reduce the likelihood of a fastener loosing pretension.

 

The correct repair is to remove the cover, tap with the appropriate STI tap and install a helicoil.

 

Search for a M6 helicoil kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I have two oil drain bolts in my case and the smaller one stripped out 5 yeaers ago.  I cleaned it real good with brakleen and glued it in with RTV Blue Ultra.  Still holding today.  I can still drain my oil from the big one but I need to tilt the bike side to side a couple times to get that last little bit out of that front chamber.

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30 minutes ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

Red loctite is a glue. Its purpose is to increase the friction coefficient to reduce the likelihood of a fastener loosing pretension.

 

The correct repair it to remove the cover, tap with the appropriate STI tap and install a helicoil.

 

Search for a M6 helicoil kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Correct. My personal preference is a timesert. Just a matter of having used both. Helicoil cheaper, faster more readily available, for me, timesert off of ebay.

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2 hours ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

Red loctite is a glue. Its purpose is to increase the friction coefficient to reduce the likelihood of a fastener loosing pretension.

 

The correct repair is to remove the cover, tap with the appropriate STI tap and install a helicoil.

 

Search for a M6 helicoil kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The question was whether or not he could use loctite.  I'm not sure how this answers the question.

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The clampload of the bolt on the soft washer is what creates the seal. Without good threads to tension the bolt correctly you can not achieve sufficient compression on the washer.

Perhaps some RTV would work, but I have 1 simple word to sum up that approach.

GHETTO

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I have two oil drain bolts in my case and the smaller one stripped out 5 yeaers ago.  I cleaned it real good with brakleen and glued it in with RTV Blue Ultra.  Still holding today.  I can still drain my oil from the big one but I need to tilt the bike side to side a couple times to get that last little bit out of that front chamber.

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It certainly won't leak oil or come loose, and the only way to to get it loose is to use very hot heat. Did u have any problems with it loosening because of the engine being hot?
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2 hours ago, S-L-C said:


It certainly won't leak oil or come loose, and the only way to to get it loose is to use very hot heat. Did u have any problems with it loosening because of the engine being hot?

who is that question directed at?

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who is that question directed at?

You. When u glued the bolt in that held for 5 years. Since heat is the only way to get out red loctite do u think the heat from the engine can cause it to come loose and maybe leak transmission oil?

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4 minutes ago, S-L-C said:


You. When u glued the bolt in that held for 5 years. Since heat is the only way to get out red loctite do u think the heat from the engine can cause it to come loose and maybe leak transmission oil?

He said he used RTV sealant, entirely different stuff. And he didn't say it was leaking, he said it's working fine. 

Heat just softens loctite and expands metal, it just makes it easier to remove something that has been treated with loctite. Because sometimes it takes a lot of doing to remove something with red loctite on it. 

I'd try the same as Wiely if it's not overly stripped. If it just pops in and out of the hole you are not going to be able to get around using a helicoil, unless you tap it out to a bigger bolt size. In either case you are going to have to remove the cover to avoid having metal shavings inside your case. 

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16 hours ago, S-L-C said:

 

The last guy that owned the bike I just bought stripped the bolt I use to check the transmission oil level. Oil was leaking so I was just wondering if I could use the red loctite to put the bolt in. I never use it I just measure it by what it says on the side. Also, wouldn't I never need to use it since it doesn't connect the case to the engine. It's just there for measuring purposes. So should I use the red loctite?

 

How much do you care about the bike? 

"I love this &%$#@!ing bike" - helicoil/timesert, remove case, blah blah blah aka do it the right way 

"Its a dirt bike, not a ferrari" - RTV that bitch in there, let it cure and go ride

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1 hour ago, S-L-C said:


You. When u glued the bolt in that held for 5 years. Since heat is the only way to get out red loctite do u think the heat from the engine can cause it to come loose and maybe leak transmission oil?

I've always needed a torch to break red loctite'd in nuts and bolts. That part of the engine/trans doesn't get anywhere near hot enough to release red loctite 

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19 hours ago, mikeridered said:

Correct. My personal preference is a timesert. Just a matter of having used both. Helicoil cheaper, faster more readily available, for me, timesert off of ebay.

Timeserts, and similar bushing inserts, while probably the best long term fix require  a larger hole and often there is not enough surrounding metal for a larger hole, hence Helicoil for thread repair. 

Lotite is an anerobic product that harden in the absence of air. The red is for permanent, green enables removal, and blue for maintenace removal.

RTV, if the threads are good enough to hold the bolt, is a good fix 👍

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Yes, I will say the treads would still hold the bolt in when I RTV'd it, the torque spec was 60 in/lbs and it never clicked, but had some resistance, maybe 20 in/lbs.  I would have helicoiled, but didn't need the extra drain hole and didn't want metal shavings in the case so out came the RTV.  On a different place on this bike an insert pulled out of the subframe. I filled the subframe channel with JB weld, drilled it to 1/4" and tapped it for an m6 helicoil.  It just holds on a side panel so no real stress. That has been fine for years.

I like that time-sert idea.

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Rather than using anything I would tap to next size for a permanent fix but that would require pulling side case

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21 hours ago, L. Euler said:

The question was whether or not he could use loctite.  I'm not sure how this answers the question.

Of course he can use Loctite. On anything, anywhere, and at any time. I believe our responses were to effect a more suitable repair.

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9 hours ago, Chuck. said:

Lotite is an anerobic product that harden in the absence of air. The red is for permanent, green enables removal, and blue for maintenace removal.

This is a really good point that I forgot to make. Loctite only sets in the absence of air, like when it's in the tiny gap between nut and bolt threads. That's why Loctite comes with heaps of air in the bottle. If you try to use it to bog something up or glue things together it doesn't set. If there is no thread left on the bolt and you just use Loctite to glue the bolt in then may find it remains gooey. 

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