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New XR250 owner in Asia, what model is this? Weird exhaust? And what parts should I have brought over first? Help!

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Greetings, I just purchased this XR250 in Cambodia.  I'm loving it so far, and it's really in great shape.  I had a French mechanic fix some issues for me, but now I'd like to give it a little performance boost and some love:

IMG_2447.JPG.db3c4bb0fd4ef136496fc27846dbc687.JPG

I was told that it is a 2004 XR250.  The frame says MD30?  But when did they invert the forks?

My main problem is, that I can't really order parts easily here.  Shipping usually takes 1-2 months, and even then it's complicated.  SO.  I have someone coming at the end of this month, and they've offered my some luggage space.  I'm looking for input for the best things to have brought over.

I'd like to do Gordon's Mods, but I need a little guidance in terms of what to do with the jetting?  I removed the snorkle, ground the welds, but.... here's what my exhaust looks like:

IMG_2545.JPG.a9ca7f28ef52c5eacc5d34d866fc0682.JPG

Can I even remove the baffle?  Or is drilling holes an option?  It appears to be the stock exhaust, but perhaps the bike is from Japan?  This country imports a LOT of used bikes from Japan.

So, Depending on what I can do with the baffle, do I need to adjust the jets/carb/needle?  If so, what parts do I need to order?  My plan is to order the needed parts, and continue to learn about the install process so I'm ready when they get here.

I'm also planning on a Uni filter and Rox 2" risers, as I'm 6'4".

Anything else?!

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You exhaust baffle doesn't appear to be removable. On those with a removable baffle like US bikes, we drill 3 holes around the inside of the silver trim ring. Those holes come out still inside the screened portion of the baffle, so they don't compromise or bypass the spark arrestor function of it. No telling how yours is built inside. It may not be equipped with a spark arrestor. May just be a sound baffle, in which case, drilling the holes wouldn't compromise it any. And don't go crazy drilling too many holes. 3 is plenty.

If you put a UNI filter on it, drill the exhaust and pull the airbox snorkle under the seat, yes, you'll need to rejet. Part of the Gordon mods is also checking the header flange welds to see how restrictive they are inside and cleaning them up a little. Some are worse than others.

What's your elevation? Other 250 riders here can tell you what jetting to run for similar set up and elevation. If you don't have local sources for jets and have to order those in too, you'll need to know before hand what jets you'll need for the new intake and exhaust mods.

Take a very good look at your sprockets, chain and brake pads. You probably can't get those very easily either, so might consider getting some spares while you can.

I see that one of your header tubes is dented pretty good.

Order some spare oil filters. Check to see if a replacement headlight bulb is available locally, if not order a spare.

Edited by Trailryder42

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4 minutes ago, Trailryder42 said:

You exhaust baffle doesn't appear to be removable. On those with a removable baffle like US bikes, we drill 3 holes around the inside of the silver trim ring. Those holes come out still inside the screened portion of the baffle, so they don't compromise or bypass the spark arrestor function of it. No telling how yours is built inside. It may not be equipped with a spark arrestor. May just be a sound baffle, in which case, drilling the holes wouldn't compromise it any. And don't go crazy drilling too many holes. 3 is plenty.

If you put a UNI filter on it, drill the exhaust and pull the airbox snorkle under the seat, yes, you'll need to rejet. Part of the Gordon mods is also checking the header flange welds to see how restrictive they are inside and cleaning them up a little. Some are worse than others.

What's your elevation? Other 250 riders here can tell you what jetting to run for similar set up and elevation. If you don't have local sources for jets and have to order those in too, you'll need to know before hand what jets you'll need for the new intake and exhaust mods.

Take a very good look at your sprockets, chain and brake pads. You probably can't get those very easily either, so might consider getting some spares while you can.

I see that one of your header tubes is dented pretty good.

Order some spare oil filters. Check to see if a replacement headlight bulb is available locally, if not order a spare.

Thanks for the quick response.  

The header tube is currently in the freezer, trying to pop the dent a bit.  Doubtful it will do anything :)  I have a source for a new header pipe, how big of an impact would this have on performance?  It's nearly pinched in half.

Elevation is about 100' :)

I'll research drilling holes a bit more before I do the work.  

Jets are the things I understand the least in terms of knowing what size to get with these mods.

 

What are the negatives of not rejetting?  

 

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The negatives of not rejetting are running too lean and burning up the motor. You're better off leaving the bike as is if you can't or don't want to mess with rejetting. There are lots of Youtube videos that show you "how" to do it. It would help to know what jetting is currently in it before you go ordering new jets.

Yes, the pinched off exhaust header tube does have an effect on performance. You'll probably see it most in the mid to upper throttle range of street riding, as you're trying to force more gases past a bottleneck obstruction. You might see if your french mech can do anything with it.

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23 minutes ago, Trailryder42 said:

The negatives of not rejetting are running too lean and burning up the motor. You're better off leaving the bike as is if you can't or don't want to mess with rejetting. There are lots of Youtube videos that show you "how" to do it. It would help to know what jetting is currently in it before you go ordering new jets.

Yes, the pinched off exhaust header tube does have an effect on performance. You'll probably see it most in the mid to upper throttle range of street riding, as you're trying to force more gases past a bottleneck obstruction. You might see if your french mech can do anything with it.

Yup.

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http://www.motobike.jp/

Has everything Honda youll need much closer than 1-2months shipping. Cheaper too probably.

Those look like cr forks. But they always have some special modded something thats never sold in America. So who knows. But Id get cr seals for it.

And thats not e start...but again, Ive only seen in America 

And that dents nothing Id worry about. Far from bent in half. Does it get way hotter than the other tube?

Youre at sea level. Any more breathing you do will need more drinking. We dont know what to tell you cause we dont know if youll drill 3- 8mm holes or 5- 6mm holes. Theres so many factors.learn to read plug chops. Buy a bunch of new plugs.read each plug after each change. Theyll tell you if its rich or lean.

Id just save up for a nice aftermarket pipe. I know its harder for you to get. 

Cool buy. Good for you!

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You got it correct , its a XR250 MD 30 Build and sold from 2004-2006 in Japan .

Differnce to the older models sold wordwide are the USD Forks with rebound ajustment .

The Tank with wings and the electric Start as the hole elektric system .

Most older Engine Parts like Cylinder and Piston or Camschaft fit like anything else except if it belongs to the Forks or Elektric start .

The Manual for that Bike inc. the Electric Start and forks is only available in Japanese but you get it online .

Otherwise you can use the 96 manual.

It was sold in australia too , so if you need online Parts diagram look at webshops from australia, i don't have them on my lapptop sorry .

 

The FMF Q4 work well on this Bike , if you can get one for the CRF250L local , that one can be adapt with a easy mod on the Pipe angle .

Bigger header is a must as original is double wall and inside very small . Rejetting the carb or changing it to . Orginal Carb has a Trottle positioning sensor , if you change the Carb. keep it electric wise connectet and set it for the middle position or just a little lower , it change the ignition timing .You can also play with it to find the best setting .

Carb from the XR400 ND08 2005-2008 , a CV Carb with TP works too 

Snorkel in the Airbox must be pulled out with any carb or muffler mods .

I have 2 of these XR's

IMG_0737_zpskqiegkpe.jpg

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5 hours ago, Schrauberklaus said:

You got it correct , its a XR250 MD 30 Build and sold from 2004-2006 in Japan .

Differnce to the older models sold wordwide are the USD Forks with rebound ajustment .

The Tank with wings and the electric Start as the hole elektric system .

Most older Engine Parts like Cylinder and Piston or Camschaft fit like anything else except if it belongs to the Forks or Elektric start .

The Manual for that Bike inc. the Electric Start and forks is only available in Japanese but you get it online .

Otherwise you can use the 96 manual.

It was sold in australia too , so if you need online Parts diagram look at webshops from australia, i don't have them on my lapptop sorry .

 

The FMF Q4 work well on this Bike , if you can get one for the CRF250L local , that one can be adapt with a easy mod on the Pipe angle .

Bigger header is a must as original is double wall and inside very small . Rejetting the carb or changing it to . Orginal Carb has a Trottle positioning sensor , if you change the Carb. keep it electric wise connectet and set it for the middle position or just a little lower , it change the ignition timing .You can also play with it to find the best setting .

Carb from the XR400 ND08 2005-2008 , a CV Carb with TP works too 

Snorkel in the Airbox must be pulled out with any carb or muffler mods .

I have 2 of these XR's

IMG_0737_zpskqiegkpe.jpg

Thanks for the great info!  I'm trying to learn more about the front forks to know how best to adjust them.

I cannot afford a new aftermarket muffler :(

The bike runs fantastic, but wanted to see what I could do for some small gains.  Can I drill the muffler as others have done?  Or is this one too different.

Woukd a different header make much difference without an aftermarket muffler?

And right now I don't know if I could afford one anyways!

Remove snorkel, drill muffler, unifilter, and rejet? Would be good for a small increase?

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small changes ,small differnce you must know if its worth the effort .

Rebound ajustment screw is on the bottom end of the Fork , you need a mirrow to see it or get on your back .

rebound%20ajustment_zps52fm4xa8.jpg

You can google for the australien owners manual , its in english .

 

And if the Cambo Mechanics are as cretive as the Thais i'm shure you can find one that build you a bigger header and mod. the muffler for small money. You are not the first XR owner in Cambo . it's just to find the right mechanic .

Edited by Schrauberklaus

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Snorkel, Uni, and drilled muff will do very little.
You could probably get away with doing nothing. Id do those, then put in a new plug, ride it around. Look how black/white the plug is. If it still looks like metal, you're good. Black-rich. White-lean. So does the plug look like its not burning everything? Or that its not getting enough to burn. So if burnt ish sticks around fouling up your plug. Its too rich. If it looks faint, it's not getting enough, lean.

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Find Sang's shop near Toul Tom Poung market.  It is on street 432 between streets 155 and 163.  they are some of the best.

Capture.JPG

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Here in Australia they call this bike a xr250l  one of the last models produced.

I have seen jet kits that have several different sizes in one kit then you have the option to find what works best rather than buying one at a time

parts wise think of what wont last brake pads chain sprockets brake and clutch leavers ext.

its good to have spares especialy wen it takes so long to get parts

look up hard enduro cross training on you tube they have some great advice and technics to get more out of your bike using skills not bike mods!

see how you go good luck

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this is from the local Honda site dunno if it helps? if your looking for more of these let me know and il copy what you need and post on here if it helps?

once again good luck with it  Steve

250l muff.png

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So how did you go???????? and do you need any more  schematics?   just curios.

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