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XC-W wiring issue

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Bike is a 2011 KTM 530 XC-W. Ok so the issue is there is no power going to all of my OEM wiring (headlight, taillight, and e-start). For example, I press my electric start button and the solenoid just clicks, and before you ask, no battery is not dead, all wires are connected, and all ground are attached. Example 2, when I get the bike running via kickstart (ya for that) my headlight and taillight get no power, as in they do not turn on.

My brother and I think the problem could be the voltage regulator, starter relay, or maybe alternator? But we are not 100% sure since we both are not completely sure what we are doing. 

If the voltage regulator is the problem how do I check to see if it is in proper working order? Same with the starter relay and alternator.

If someone with good wiring and electronic knowledge could help me out that would be greatly appriciated, Ive made posts on reddit and the KTM forums and there was no real help there.

Thanks.

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11 hours ago, Josh Podolsky said:

I press my electric start button and the solenoid just clicks, and before you ask, no battery is not dead,

How did you check your battery? It may not have the capacity required regardless of the voltage reading.

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Easy stuff first...

- Check your fuses and make sure the connections are clean and snug. The fact that it runs fine , but all your ancillary electrical components don't work, speaks to the possibility of a fuse problem.

- Your battery may take a charge but it may not hold a charge...use a multi meter to check voltage while under load (e-start)...or even better...borrow a battery you know is good and try it.

If all is well with these aspects and you still have the problem...then head for the regulator or stator.

 

Lots of stuff on youtube about how to check regulator and stator.

 

Edited by travertt

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6 hours ago, gitenby said:

How did you check your battery? It may not have the capacity required regardless of the voltage reading.

Trust me, it has charge, I also had the battery charger connected to it charging and it still only clicks. Plus if the battery is low on charge it would just slowly turn over the starter motor (Ive dealt with low/dead batteries before).

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35 minutes ago, Josh Podolsky said:

Trust me, it has charge, I also had the battery charger connected to it charging and it still only clicks. Plus if the battery is low on charge it would just slowly turn over the starter motor (Ive dealt with low/dead batteries before).

Judging by your statement I'd replace the battery. Good luck

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1 hour ago, Josh Podolsky said:

Trust me, it has charge, I also had the battery charger connected to it charging and it still only clicks. Plus if the battery is low on charge it would just slowly turn over the starter motor (Ive dealt with low/dead batteries before).

Just an FYI a battery can show well over 12 volts, yet still have no output amperage, or not enough to turn over the motor. Maybe  light up the lights and such

not saying that's your issue, just an fyi       

Id try jumping the battery, then I id rule out the battery if doesn't work

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The lighting system runs on AC and only works with the bike running, there are no fuses for this. It runs from the stator to the regulator and then the light switch. You need a multi-meter to properly test. The starter is part of the DC circuit, if the relay is clicking the control side is ok.

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Clean every battery connection you can find. The main ground runs through the aluminum subframe.
Your battery is very likely bad. Sure it has plenty of voltage but no current. If it clicks the starter but will not turn over you are not getting enough current.

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On 5/7/2017 at 5:43 PM, gitenby said:

Judging by your statement I'd replace the battery. Good luck

 

6 hours ago, 4strokeridertt said:

Clean every battery connection you can find. The main ground runs through the aluminum subframe.
Your battery is very likely bad. Sure it has plenty of voltage but no current. If it clicks the starter but will not turn over you are not getting enough current.

I just hooked the bike up to a charged car battery, and like I said, that is not the problem. The clicking was just even louder.

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11 hours ago, TwoHundred said:

The lighting system runs on AC and only works with the bike running, there are no fuses for this. It runs from the stator to the regulator and then the light switch. You need a multi-meter to properly test. The starter is part of the DC circuit, if the relay is clicking the control side is ok.

So my problem is my regulator? It is defiantly not the battery/grounds/connections/fuses.

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34 minutes ago, Josh Podolsky said:

So my problem is my regulator? It is defiantly not the battery/grounds/connections/fuses.

Did you check the starter? you may have a bad starter

The best approach is always determine the battery passes a LOAD test. A marginal battery can have you going in circles, Autozone or Advanced auto does it for no charge.

Your starter relay sounds like it's actuating so check at the starter and see if voltage is getting to it. It's possible the starter defective.

What voltage do you have with a volt meter across the battery when you try to start it? An excessive drop in voltage either means excessive current draw (Bad Starter) or defective battery. no drop in voltage is an open circuit or high resistance.

  

Edited by gitenby

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17 minutes ago, gitenby said:

Did you check the starter? you may have a bad starter

The best approach is always determine the battery passes a LOAD test. A marginal battery can have you going in circles, Autozone or Advanced auto does it for no charge.

Your starter relay sounds like it's actuating so check at the starter and see if voltage is getting to it. It's possible the starter defective.

What voltage do you have with a volt meter across the battery when you try to start it? An excessive drop in voltage either means excessive current draw (Bad Starter) or defective battery. no drop in voltage is an open circuit or high resistance.

  

Ill check my starter right know give me a few minutes.

Even if it is a defective starter relay would that explain why my OEM head/taillight dont get power even when the bike is running? I also disconnected everything from my bike battery and attached it all to a charged car battery, the clicking just got louder. 

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27 minutes ago, gitenby said:

Did you check the starter? you may have a bad starter

The best approach is always determine the battery passes a LOAD test. A marginal battery can have you going in circles, Autozone or Advanced auto does it for no charge.

Your starter relay sounds like it's actuating so check at the starter and see if voltage is getting to it. It's possible the starter defective.

What voltage do you have with a volt meter across the battery when you try to start it? An excessive drop in voltage either means excessive current draw (Bad Starter) or defective battery. no drop in voltage is an open circuit or high resistance.

  

So my starter motor is not getting power when I press the e-start. At rest my battery is putting out ~10.6 volts, and when I press the e-start it goes down to ~8.90 volts.

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1 hour ago, Josh Podolsky said:

So my problem is my regulator? It is defiantly not the battery/grounds/connections/fuses.

not reg or stator , you don't even need a stator to turn the starter   , find out where your battery voltage from the starter solenoid is going. since its clicking says the contacts are engaging to allow battery voltage through.

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16 minutes ago, Josh Podolsky said:

So my starter motor is not getting power when I press the e-start. At rest my battery is putting out ~10.6 volts, and when I press the e-start it goes down to ~8.90 volts.

Battery bad, not enough to energize the starter and starter relay at the same time or the starter is drawing excessive current resulting in the same indication. Load test the battery

 

Edited by gitenby

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2 minutes ago, gitenby said:

Battery bad, not enough to energize the starter and relay at the same time

 

But I connected everything to a charged car battery, and it just clicked even louder.

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Just now, Josh Podolsky said:

But I connected everything to a charged car battery, and it just clicked even louder.

I edited this post.

Did you have jumper cables attached the same battery? That can cause a voltage drop and loading issues. I've gone down this exact road before. Best to load check a battery 

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1 minute ago, gitenby said:

I edited this post.

Did you have jumper cables attached the same battery? That can cause a voltage drop and loading issues. I've gone down this exact road before. Best to load check a battery 

No, the battery is only connected to the bike. Ive got like 30 different car batteries (use them for bear fences) so they are all good and charged and even those wouldnt put out power to the starter motor. The thing is when I got the bike the battery and e-start worked just fine, even though the battery was close to dead it still slowly turned over the starter motor. 

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A fully charged Lead Acid battery is 12.6 volts. 

Disconnect the battery leads and you must have 12.6 volts static, if you do then it drops when you connect the leads then you have something drawing a lot of current that should not be OR we go back to a bad battery

Edited by gitenby

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16 hours ago, gitenby said:

A fully charged Lead Acid battery is 12.6 volts. 

Disconnect the battery leads and you must have 12.6 volts static, if you do then it drops when you connect the leads then you have something drawing a lot of current that should not be OR we go back to a bad battery

Turns out I may have autism, the negative lead from the starter motor was attached directly to the battery instead of the starter relay... TO MY DEFENSE I never touched that cable before and I defiantly do not remember taking it off of the starter relay so I dont understand how it came off and how it worked before.

Sorry for being retarded and wasting your guy's time.

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