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Rimlocks for dual sport riding

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So I'm planning a dual sport ride and I'm curious what you guys do for balancing tires for gravel roads/ logging roads/ pavement. Running rimlocks or not?

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Im dualsporting mine and personally i ride with rimlock only in the back tire because of the engine power. In the front tire i dont see a reasonable need to use one so i took the front rimlock off.

Both wheels are balanced and perform nicely on the road besides the noise but you cant win them all (;

Edited by Earthmover
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4 oz per wheel with rim locks

I used taped lead ones on rear & spoke weights on front

Edited by gitenby

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if you use sticky weights, they need to be duct taped, heat, jumping and centrifugal force has a way of throwing the Horse shoes.

 

This bikes is so smooth on the road it will put you to sleep at 80 mph, as smooth as any street bike, with tires ACCURATELY balanced.

Edited by Spud786
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Thanks for the input but I guess I should have been more specific in my wording
I'm well aware of the massive amount of weight that it takes to counter act the weight of the rimlocks, I'm more concerned about tearing off a valve stem if i dont use the locks
Anyone have any input on the subject

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55 minutes ago, iceguy said:

Thanks for the input but I guess I should have been more specific in my wording
I'm well aware of the massive amount of weight that it takes to counter act the weight of the rimlocks, I'm more concerned about tearing off a valve stem if i dont use the locks
Anyone have any input on the subject

Under 25 psi on a 500 , good chance of spinning on the rim without a lock

and anything under 20 psi on the front

Edited by Spud786
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After the 1 hour break in ride on my '17 EXC 500 I swapped tires but first checked the balance with the TK80's and one rim lock per wheel as it came from the factory. The rear would've needed all of 5 1/2 ounces to balance and the front would've needed 3 1/2 ounces. I drilled another set of holes 180* from the originals and used 2 Motion Pro nylon rim locks per wheel. The rear, with a Kenda Trackmaster 2 only needed an ounce to balance and the front Pirelli Scorpion Pro needed 1 1/4 ounces. Smooth as silk up to 101mph so far.

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The second rim lock acts as a counter weight, so you use less weight. Makes it easier in needing to install less weights routinely.  Plus improve riding a flat tire.

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I've had really good luck with ride on tire sealer and balance.  Cycle gear carries it. I've also used large fishing weights. Drill a hole through vertically, cut vertically until the hole you drilled. Spread open and crimp down on the spoke.  Opposite the rim lock.

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The second rim lock acts as a counter weight, so you use less weight. Makes it easier in needing to install less weights routinely.  Plus improve riding a flat tire.

Now it's making good sense to me.
So far the best approach to my question I've heard.
I'll definitely be giving that a go!
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Rim-locked and balanced, added enough weight to balance things out on the opposite side of the rim.  Really smoothed things out.

Mine are stuck on the inside of the dish of the rim.  They cannot fling out, and the pressure of the tube keeps them right where they need to be.

DSC07039-M.jpg

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1 hour ago, SnowMule said:

Rim-locked and balanced, added enough weight to balance things out on the opposite side of the rim.  Really smoothed things out.

Mine are stuck on the inside of the dish of the rim.  They cannot fling out, and the pressure of the tube keeps them right where they need to be.

DSC07039-M.jpg

That's pretty ingenious! Never seen that before.

In regards to the original poster; going without rim-locks is not a problem, until you open it up  and feel your rear wheel give out and are stuck pushing your bike  __miles back to your truck... at least the 500EXC-F I have came with front and rear stock (but not balanced from the factory for road, but that's a different story). Don't chance it! A few extra ounces front and rear and a few extra seconds when changing a tube is worth the security.

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I thought of putting weight like that, but thought I might end up with a flat.  Generally when I get a flat, anything with glue inside the tire, duct tape ect, melts and becomes a nasty goo, cause I have to ride it several miles. I stop duct taping inside the wheel.

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Not sure what bike the OP is on but most bikes rims come with a rim lock front/back as well as a pre drilled hole for a 2nd rim lock front/back if needed.

I'm using these Motion Pros front/back on my CRF and the weight is next to nothing. I'm in the process of sorting out a DRZ that I recently got given and I'm riding it 70% trails/30% road and when I put on new tires I'm putting one of these on front back with a HD tube front and a UHD tube back. On my last ride I had the front at about 15PSI which worked good on the road and trail and started with the rear at 15 then dropped to 8PSI when I was one the trail. I carry a dual action mini pump if I want to increase PSI.

TE610_Motion_Pro_LiteLoc_rim_locks-S.jpg

I ride my CRF rear with a UHD tube at 2 PSI with one rim lock.

Personally and IMO what tires you choose are going to make the biggest difference.

 

Edited by filterx

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I'm riding a 525 exc and im planning a 300+ mile trip in june that will be over mixed road surfaces ranging from paved highway to 2 track logging roads.
I'm not sure about tire selection yet but figured to be doing around 100 miles a day plus some exploring when we see something that looks good along the way.
Some of my friends say locks in the front won't be nessacary but the rear needs them for sure and I agree about the rear. However, we dont plan on banging around on any serious rough terrain.

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The DRZ400S came with no rim locks, neither did my DR650 or XR650L.  I always ran 15psi front and back.  Never had a problem for ten's of thousands of miles.  On my '17 KTM 350 EXC-F, I immediately removed both rim locks front and back and rode over 700km off-road with no issues.  Running 15psi front and back. 

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